Tour Guides - Can't Live With Them, Can't Live Without Them
This comment about 'travel specialists', or guides, by Mark Schatzker, the '80 Days or Bust' traveler from Condé Nast, made me think about my own experience finding and dealing with guides. I tend to agree with him that (even for independent travelers) a guide who can ease the hassles of negotiating in a new culture and language can enhance a particular experience. Thorough research is advised if you're not going with a recommended guide, though. Sometimes, unfortunately, we don't have the luxury of choice if we don't plan ahead.
Like the time I found myself stuck in the dreadful town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe with no prior plans on how to get to Botswana. Considering ourselves expert travelers, Todd and I headed to Southern Africa for a month and decided to wing it as we had everywhere else we'd traveled to up to that point. We were in for a surprise when we arrived in Victoria Falls from Cape Town to find out that most people traveling in this part of the continent booked tours ahead of time with foreign companies, as the infrastructure to get from point A to B (city to city, as much as country to country) was rudimentary at best. Victoria Falls is a creepy town that felt abandoned and unwelcoming. You were gawked at by seemingly unemployed young men everywhere you went and I did not feel safe, even when I was inside my hotel room.
In this bleak environment we found ourselves staring at this man who was wearing a suit that was many sizes too large on him, sitting behind a desk in an unlit room inside a dingy strip mall, who claimed to be an expert tour guide of the area. For the next 5 days he would take us through Botswana on a couple of safaris, then the Okavango Delta, and finally drop us off at the border crossing to Zambia, all meals, tent accomodation and transportation provided. We just had to pay up front. All our senses told us this was a bad idea. After checking out the one other alternative in town, however, he was our only way out of that forsaken town the following day so we crossed our fingers and handed over our money.
As we probably could have predicted, the next few days were full of surprises. Starting with being stranded in the rain at Chobe National Park with no guide, no tent and no food until 9 o'clock on the first night, to the meals of cold canned beans on plates that had been rinsed on dirty water out of the back of the trunk of our A/C-less car standing by the side of the road, to the unpleasant surprise that we had to purchase our own food to take to the Okavango Delta and yes, we were our own chefs. Not to mention the fact that our guide casually told us he had been in jail and he carried a knife in the car in case we had any emergencies. I honestly think the man did not mean to rip us off or give us an unpleasant experience; he truly thought he was giving us acceptable service, but there were many frustrated moments when we wished we had ditched the guide and struggled through the language and infrastructure barriers on our own.
Looking back we had a great experience in spite of our guide and I remember the wonderful safaris, sceneries and people we met along the way. I did walk into this one with my eyes open but I also had some key learnings from the experience: do my research (and potentially book tours) ahead of time when going to more remote, poor areas and set my expectations to the local custom when hiring a local guide in an untouristed country.
If you're headed to Latin America, be sure to check out our recommended tours to avoid an unpleasant situation. We stand by our recommendations, as we research all our providers before bringing them to you.
This article was posted by Veronica Montero
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