Chronicles of On The Road Travel

No News is Not Good News

Three days later and still no site... sorry! There does seem to be movement at Startlogic though! After many, many hours on hold with tech support they have identified the issue and recognized that it is their fault. It seems they finally (after at least a year) upgrade us to the new platform they are rolling out without any warning. In  the usual Startlogic way, they also managed to lose half the files when they did the migration! So... it's a work in progress.

In the meantime, Countries throughout Latin America are gearing up for one of the largest events of the year: Holy Week. Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru, provides these updates on the festivities in Cusco:

Cultural and student organizations in Cusco will stage the Passion of Christ in the surrounding areas of Sacsayhuamán this Holy Week. The ceremony will start early on the morning of Friday 21, in the main square of the city and will be taken through every cross in the whereabouts of Sacsayhuamán. 

On Monday, 17 the traditional ‘Lord of Earthquakes’ procession and blessing will take place in the main square. According to devouts, in 1650 a canvas named ‘Christ of the Good Death’ stopped a strong earthquake striking Cusco, when indigenous people and Spaniards started praying together before him.

This celebration is especially interesting for it allows us to appreciate with clarity the fusion between Andean and Christian religions. As a matter of fact, the Cathedral of Cusco itself was built over the base of the ancient temple dedicated to the Inca God Wiracocha.

The image of the Lord of Earthquakes is taken on procession through different streets of the city in the same way mummies of Inca chiefs, priests and high governors were.

Finally, the central element of this celebration is the Ñucchu flower (sage) which was offered in the past to Wiracocha, and is now used to make the crown for the Lord of Earthquakes and is also thrown to the image during the procession.

This is quite an impressive religious celebration, which gathers thousands of people in the Main Square, all waiting for the blessing of this image in absolute silence, deeply touched, for they consider the Lord of Earthquakes their mediator between earth and heaven.

Around 3pm people start gathering in the Main Square, so for a privileged view of this sea of people, try a coffee shop or restaurant with a balcony, such as La Retama (recommended by OTR).

Travel Trends for the New Year

Travel & Leisure magazine has listed the top 5 trends that will change travel in 2008. Most of these suggestions are unremarkable (ecotravel has been on the rise for years, spas are always getting more luxe), but I did think it was interesting that they pointed to Latin America as a top destination offering good value, specifically Mexico, Brazil and Argentina. Again, this isn't a new trend, but is certainly a more obvious one in the face of a weak US dollar.

I would also commend their realization that hotels are moving towards providing a home away from home. These are exactly the types of hotels that we focus on in our recommendations:

In Peru's Sacred Valley, Kuychi Rumi offers six individual guest houses offering two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a living room and a wonderful patio, all at a very affordable price.

On the shores of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, you can kick back at Terraza Choi and enjoy the views from the comforts of this beautiful, modern home.

In Rio de Janeiro, the coastal city that never sleeps, you have your choice of a variety of bed and breakfast options in the artsy, hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa. Cama e Cafe will match your travel preferences with one of the 50+ homes in their network.

Despite its big-city feel, Buenos Aires has plenty of options for a 'home away from home'. Suites hotels such as Artsuites, Design Suites and Soho All Suites offer apartment-style accommodations with full kitchen and living areas. This is a great way to get to know a city at your own pace, relaxing in your suite with a meal on down days and exploring the city when you've caught your breath again!

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Learn Spanish for Your Trip

Sadly, after all these years, my grasp of the Spanish language is still a little loose. I can read and understand it, for the most part thanks to the fact that I am/was at one point fluent in French. But when it comes to getting a sentence out, I am often at a loss for words unless I've had a few glasses of wine.

Margaret Graham at Ahora Hablo has written a wonderful, and concise, book of terms that will help you get through your travels to a Spanish-speaking destination. Her Seven Simple Steps to Authentic Spanish takes you through the pronunciation and use of 45 function verbs and presents situational vocabulary for most sticky spots you are likely to encounter on your travels.

The only drawback is that the book is soft cover with spiral binding, which is not likely to last long in my luggage while traveling. That being said, it is a great starting point for anyone who wants to familiarize themselves in the language and get a better understanding of the goings-on in their destination. If you're serious about learning the language you may want to consider hunkering down with a one-on-one course in Xela, Guatemala, or taking a group lesson while enjoying the scenery in Antigua, Guatemala.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Shakira To The Rescue

Columbian pop singer Shakira has announced that she will contribute $40 million to help her native Latin America recover from recent natural disasters. Many of you have closely followed the aftermath of the recent earthquakes in Peru and the subsequent damage caused by Hurricane Felix in Nicaragua. The funds will come from the foundation she co-founded, the Latin America for Solidarity Foundation (ALAS), with fellow Columbian Gabriel Garcia Marquez, the nobel prize winning author.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Greatest Travel Books of All Time

I love to buy books (fictional or non) about the countries that I am planning to visit -- or those that are high on my list. It's such a great way to gain a preview of the cultural issues and highlights of a country or region. This month's Conde Naste Magazine features a list of the 86 greatest travel books of all time. It is a comprehensive list (which unfortunately is not classified by region) with some great recommendations. One of my most recent travel reads is Eat, Love Pray... not a classic, but a great read. We've also listed recommended readings on the website that are worth considering if you are traveling to Argentina, Brazil, Guatemala or Peru.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Etiquette For Traveling Abroad

This past weekend's San Francisco Chronicle published an interesting list of 'do's and don'ts when traveling abroad'. It's always important when traveling to a new country to blend in with the local culture and not offend the locals. The Chronicle's list is less informative than it is tongue in cheek - one of my favorites:
    In Canada, don't pretend to be Canadian
A bit obvious, but you'd be amazed at the number of people who pick up 'eh' and 'aboot' after a few days in the Great White North.

A few others that are relevant to OTR Travelers:
    In Brazil, don't ask, "What's this sawdust doing on my food?" (It's dried manioc.)
    In Argentina, don't tango solo.
    In South America, don't tell people you're from America. (They are, too.)

To avoid these pitfalls, read our cultural cheatsheets for Argentina, Brazil, Guatemala and Peru, and don't miss the Kiss and Tango Guide to Buenos Aires.

Soak Up Latin America's Culture in California

Earlier this summer the Museum of Latin American Art celebrated the completion of its new building which will house its expanding collection. In this new facility you will find a 1,000 square-foot gallery, an educational art studio, a film screening room and a research library.

The museum itself has only been around since 1996 and is the only museum in the western United States that exclusively features contemporary Latin American art. The permanent exhibition presents a selection of over 75 works of art reflecting the Latin American aesthetic of the blending of cultures—Indigenous, European and North American. The museum also has a growing events program including salsa classes and a travelers program which offers behind-the-scenes tours of museums, critically acclaimed exhibits, art fairs and biennials, meetings with up-and-coming artists, visits to cutting-edge galleries and architecturally interesting landmarks throughout the United States, Spanish-speaking Caribbean, Central and South America.

Molaa is open Tuesday - Sunday. Friday's are free! It is a great way to take in the Latin American art scene if you can't make your way down to Buenos Aires' MALBA.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Great New Photos!

Some of you may have noticed some of the changes we've been adding to the site lately. Now you can add your Flickr photos to your OTR Travel CV and travel diaries.

We've also added some new photos on the country and city pages. Here are a few that came from Scott Henderson, a former colleague of mine:

Frey Hut, Nahuel Huapi National Park, Bariloche, Argentina

Rio de Janeiro's Centro, Brazil

Donkey in Iruya, Salta Province, Argentina

If you have photos you'd like us to post send them to [email protected]

Heal Yourself With Hallucinogens in Peru

For centuries Peruvians have turned to natural remedies to cure their ailments. Medicinal and hallucinogenic plants have been used since pre-Inca times for healing. A variety of healers (referred to as shamans in North America) exist throughout the country with a wide range of techniques. While healers from the Andes use San Pedro cactus in their ceremonies, healers from the Amazon work with Ayahuasca, which in Quechua translates to ‘vine of the dead’. Ayahuasca is a hallucinogen that induces visions and helps to diagnose illness. Healing ceremonies take place late at night, when the energies are at their highest, especially during a full moon.

San Pedro is what South-American shamans (healers) consider a Sacred Plant, otherwise called visionary plant. San Pedro contains a number of psychoactive alkaloids, which make it useful as an entheogen for shamanic ceremonies. It is generally cut into slices and boiled for a long period of time creating a green liquid juice which is consumed during ceremonies. Westerners have come to Peru specifically to visit with these healers regarding a variety of issues including cancer and depression.

Click here to find out more information and to see how you can participate in a ceremony in Peru or find out more about Andean people and the Inca traditions.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Samantha Brown's Passport to Latin America

I've never really sat down to watch a travel show on TV before... there's something about watching someone else explore a new culture that makes me incredibly envious and sad that I am simply sitting on my couch. Recently someone told me about the Travel Channel's show hosted by Samantha Brown. I watched my first episode last night, which was  about Grenada, Nicaragua - appropriate given my upcoming trip.  Although it was a bit cheesy, it was much  less annoying than the Lonely Planet shows and some of the 'celeb's go traveling' shows that i've caught in passing. In fact, it was actually kind of informative, giving little inside tips that were fun to hear about (like the best place to get hand-rolled cigars).

Samantha Brown: Passport to Latin America airs Wednesdays at 8pm (ET/PT). Upcoming shows include Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and Santiago, Chile. Click here for a schedule or watch a preview video.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts