Chronicles of On The Road Travel

Not-So-Lonely Planet Writers

We've all heard the Lonely Planet horror stories, about how the people writing your trusted guidebook, the one you sacrificed 5 extra pounds in your backpack to bring along, actually never lifted a finger to update the book. Clever insights and suggestions plagiarized from another source ( I saw this first hand while traveling through Guatemala with an LP and a Footprints guide -- did both authors really think of Jackson Pollack when they saw that restaurant??), or simply made from scratch but never actually verified (if you were a 22 year old who was given a bit of cash to update a guide, wouldn't YOU pocket the money and sit on the beach, making sure to call each hotel on the list to make sure they were still in business?).  In fact it's the reason we started OTR, in an effort to provide real editorialized content from local editors who know their cities and take pride in their recommendations.

For the first time an LP guidebook writer is coming forward and providing the true story behind the trusted reviews we have all relied and frowned upon. Do Travel Writers Go to Hell? provides the Inside Scoop on the famous backpacker's bible, detailing scandalous encounters and horrifying truths about the travel guide gods. Thomas Kohnstamm was responsible for updating the Lonely Planet's Brazil guide, among others throughout Latin America. I haven't read the book, but I have most definitely been led astray by his earlier works with LP. All I have to say is -- that one time in Kanchanaburi, Thailand, when my husband and I spent 45 minutes walking in circles trying to find a 'highly recommended' restaurant... it wasn't my fault!! 

Overhead Bin Blues

I was thinking about the overhead bin evolution a couple of weeks ago while boarding a flight from the east coast. Some airlines have now restricted carry-on bags to those who are seated in the 1st and 2nd seating calls. So if you flew on points or bought a deeply discounted ticket you are likely at the end of the line when it comes to boarding, and you are now forced to check your bags.

It used to be that overnight business travel caused the most stress. You typically ended up on a full flight and had to fight off the other like-minded travelers who were also trying to squeeze their roll-on bags into the overhead bin.

Then came the flight reductions, causing all flights, no matter what time of day, to be full. So, not only were you fighting off other business travelers, who knew how to pack an overnight bag, you were also fighting Joe Shmo, who travels once in a blue moon and has no idea how to respect the unwritten rule of airline travel. He has two carry-ons that are far to big, and he spends 20 minutes getting settled in, holding up the traffic behind him trying to load on to the airplane.

Then came the toiletry regulations, swinging the pendulum back while Joe Shmo decided it was too much trouble to pack his shaving kit into a zip lock bag. Bags were once again checked to avoid the hassle.

This article from the New York Times points out that the bin creep has once again returned as the general public decides to leave its hair product behind, enticed by the handy little toiletry packet that  hotels provide for a nice markup.

Buyer beware:  several airlines will soon start charging for a second piece of luggage. When will the overhead bin find a natural balance?

'IT' Destinations for 2008

I was a bit saddened to see Laos as the #1 choice of The New York Times' 53 Places to Go in 2008 list. It was ten years ago that I visited this beautiful, undeveloped country, arriving by long tail to the village of Xieng Kok. We spoke not a word in common with any of the residents, but managed to sign our way into a floor to sleep on and a hearty meal - no thanks to Lonely Planet's completely useless first guide to Laos.

The next day, after a complimentary snack of barbecued bat, we drew a picture of a truck and found ourselves on a 6 hour, 4-wheel-drive adventure to Muang Sing, which was known for its incredible marketplace that brought villagers from miles around, eager to sell their goods. We encountered a handful of travelers, but mostly we had the town to ourselves. We felt like we had discovered a new planet. Children would poke and prod, giggle and cry, but everyone was extremely friendly and welcoming. I'd show off some photos, but this was pre-digital-camera era. I shudder to think what this quaint little town looks like today. Are there hostels, pizza joints and internet cafes?

I've since heard stories of Luang Prabang, the beautiful  European city where we made friends with a young monk who hoped we would sponsor some school books for him. I also had a run in with a baby monkey that got a little to exited by my earring and nearly pulled my ear off. Apparently it is now home to boutique hotels and gourmet restaurants.

Our flight from Luang Prabang to Vientiene, which was an old army airplane we took to avoid bandits on the road, was memorable not only for the crazy turbulence, but also for the fact that we first encountered our pilot while he was peeing in the bushes lining the tarmac.

Although I hope that New York Times - style recognition won't ruin what is left of this amazing culture. I was happy to see that I've experienced a good portion of these destinations already (and even live in one of them... San Francisco!) and that my next destination, Panama, is represented. Hopefully it won't be overrun in the next two weeks before I arrive!

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Earn Money While You Travel

It's a setup many have tried to create -- a way to earn money while you travel the world. No one is more qualified to provide tips than Rolf Potts, author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel. This week Potts' blog features 10 businesses you can run  while traveling full-time. It's time to quit your desk job!

As an aside... we are finally getting email correspondence from our hosting company (rather than the big black hole) so we may have some progress on the site soon.

Picture Perfect

You know what its like when you are on the perfect vacation, having the best day, and you just want to capture the moment. The sun is setting over a beautiful landscape and you've got the auto-timer set for the momentous occasion.  What you didn't notice in the tiny digital screen is that the angle enhanced your chins and gave you a few extra!

Here's some tips from Budget Travel on how to make your photographic memories ones that you'll want to look back on...

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Singapore Airlines Nixes the Mile High Club

Singapore Airlines has taken specific steps to discourage clients from getting 'action at altitude' following the unveiling of their new Airbus 380. The largest jumbo jet ever, the 380 features 12 'first-class suites' that come equipped with double beds, but don't include sound-proof walls. One passenger complained, "They seem to have done everything they can to make it romantic, short of bringing round oysters". Perhaps this feature would have been better reserved for Virgin Airlines?

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Of Snakes and Other Holiday Crashers

It's always important to keep your eyes open when you are exploring new territory, not only for the things you can learn, but also for your general safety. This past weekend we were in Sonoma for a wedding. We had rented a little house in the hills just above town. On Saturday afternoon as we were making our way up the wooded path to the front gate of the house where our taxi was waiting, I was greeted on the third step by a big slithering tongue that jumped out at me. It took a while to register, but when I did I found a big fat rattle snack curled up on the step about a foot away. I have long heard about the abundance of rattle snakes in Northern California, but have never seen one before. I have to say my stiletto heels were no comfort when I saw the rattle on his tale.

Our taxi driver was kind enough to offer us some words of wisdom - that the snake doesn't attack unless provoked, and that it is their fangs that contain venom and they will bite you if they fear for their lives. Not so comforting. We tiptoed back to our place after the wedding that night in hopes that we wouldn't encounter our new visitor. The next morning we awoke to find him curled up sunbathing right out our back door on the porch. It was clear that we were actually his houseguest.

When we returned home I thought it was time to get a bit more information, so that next time I encountered a rattlesnake I would be a bit more prepared. Here's the facts according to Wikipedia:

Those bitten while provoking rattlesnakes have usually underestimated the range (roughly two-thirds of its total length) and speed with which a coiled snake can strike (almost literally faster than the human eye can follow). Be aware that they can actually strike without pulling their body back into the famous "S" coil shape first and they may strike without any warning if feeling threatened.

While I was at it, I decided to look up Poison Oak, which had spoiled an earlier holiday in Hawaii when my husband clearly decided to take a bath in the stuff. We've never bothered to look it up so that we could hopefully identify and avoid it in the future. For those who've always wondered, here's what to watch out for (note that leaves are bright green in spring, yellow-green to reddish in the summer, and bright red or pink in the fall. White flowers form in the spring and, if fertilized, develop into greenish- white or tan berries:

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Canada's 7 Wonders - eh?

As we anxiously await the upcoming unveiling of the 'New 7 Wonders of the World', Canada has gone and released its own Seven Wonders List. The criteria used to determine these 7 Wonders were:

1. Essential 'Canadian-ness' - historically significant,  character filled, valued (the 'eh factor)
                            
2. Originality/uniqueness of the pitch and place
    
3. Spectacular physical site or amazing human creation
    
4. Ability to inspire
    
5. Range within the final seven - diversity of location, type of wonder
         
6. Results of the online  vote

And the winners are: the canoe, the igloo, Niagra Falls, the prairie skies, old Quebec city, Pier 21 in Halifax, and the  Rockies.  A few of these are a bit broad, but you can hear some very Canadian judging decision by  clicking on each at the CBC website.

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San Francisco to Seattle: Highlights from a Road Trip

Anyone who has done some traveling is familiar with the realities of travel.  Things are never what you expect them to be, maybe a bit disappointing or more challenges await along the way than one foresaw, but in the end usually the good memories are the ones that stick.  When departing for a recent road trip where I would be traveling from San Francisco to Seattle by car with my husband, I thought there was no way this trip would ever live up to my expectations, I had heard and read so much about the beauty of this area.  We didn't even need to distance ourselves from the experience or allow the time lag after having come home to filter out the bad memories to realize this was a very unique place and one of the most perfect vacations we had had together. 

The trajectory took us through the coast of northern California, Sonoma, Mendocino, Redwoods National Park, then into the mountains of Oregon and Crater Lake National Park, back along the Oregon coast and, lastly, to Portland and Seattle.  Not only was it the perfect mix between city time and the outdoors but also, early May was the perfect time to visit this part of the US, as it's just on the cusp of the travel season so we had no problems finding last-minute accommodations and never had to deal with crowds. 

Top 10 Highlights:

1. Fresh Dungeness crab sandwiches and clam chowder on a shack at Monterra Beach, CA.  Freshest, largest pieces of crab eaten by the ocean is a taste that lingers for days.
2. Cinco de Mayo celebration at Dolores Park.  The whole Mission district seemed to come together at Dolores Park to celebrate Mexican heritage.  A mix of good music and the beginning of summer weather had everyone in a contagious good mood.  Some probably thought they were celebrating Mexican Independence Day (which is actually on September 16) or another Latin American festivity; it was a fun cultural experience, nevertheless. 
3. Mendocino, California.  The beautiful town of Mendocino has a special feel of its own.  Its location on a tip that juts out onto the ocean means you have immediate access to hikes with gorgeous views as well as easy access to beaches where you can just chill out and have a picnic or read a book for hours on end.  The town itself has a great selection of restaurants and B&Bs that are not easy on the pocket but all very picturesque and with lots of character.  The mix of high-end living and the hippie lifestyle of the locals gives this place its added charm.  We would have lingered here except we had another 725 miles to go to our end destination.
4. Friendly people everywhere we made a turn in both California and Oregon.  People were so ridiculously friendly everywhere we went we started making fun of this surreal experience.  Surely a combination of the contrast with big city attitudes and traveling outside of peak tourist season.
5. Crater Lake National Park, Oregon.  This pristine 1,943 feet-deep lake was formed thousands of   years ago when a volcano blew its top and collapsed.  America's deepest lake lies in a park that is covered in snow most of the year.  Only in August can one drive around the entire rim of the lake, as it is the only time of the year it's not partly or fully covered in snow.  We got there one week after the first paths had been cleared so there were barely any tourists to obstruct the view. 
6. Redwood National Forest, California.  Being surrounded by massive trees that have been around for centuries, more majestic than anything man could ever build, is humbling and awe-inspiring.
7. The freedom of walking right up to a B&B or hotel and find availability and being able to negotiate prices.  Note that AAA hotels give 10% off to members, even if you don't have your card on you.  Our top lucky find was Carter House B&B in Eureka, a Victorian inn with luxurious rooms and a phenomenal restaurant.  Full buffet breakfast is included in the room price as well as happy hour with hors d'oeuvres.   
8. Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, between Florence and Coos Bay.  Going from forest to  sand dunes to ocean reminded us a bit of the Dunes de Pyla, in Bordeaux, France.  These dunes aren't quite as high and dramatic but the scenery is still beautiful and definitely worth a stop when in the area.
9. Desolate beaches that extend for 80 miles in the Lost Coast.  Backed by the Kings Range Mountains on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other, the Lost Coast is a strip of untouched coast north of Mendocino, south of Eureka that has been completely preserved for the enjoyment of nature.  You can find accommodations on Shelter Cove and from there you are on your own to camp if you want to spend the week hiking the California Coastal Trail. Getting out there is a bit of an adventure, as you head westbound from Garberville on US101, through Shelter Cover Rd., you hit some very windy roads until the deep forest eventually opens up to dramatic views of tall, green mountains blending into the beach by the rough ocean.  It's easy to get lost (no pun intended!) and locals appear to take some pleasure in keeping this their best kept secret but do persist, as you will be rewarded with an unforgettable experience. Words simply don't do justice to this place.
10. Seeing Seattle without rain.

This article was posted by Veronica Montero

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The Mexican West

I never realized how predominant the influence of Mexican culture was all along the North Western coast of the US, especially in its cuisine, until recently traveling by car from San Francisco to Seattle.  We had been advised to be sure to try the Mexican food when in San Fran.  So we checked that off the list on our first meal out in the city with Jen and Seth at Papalotes in the Latin neighbourhood of The Mission,  followed by Cinco de Mayo celebrations at Dolores Park.  Little did we know that all along the North Western coast of the U.S. we would find traces of the Mexican culture and that Mexican food would be the most accessible to the point that we would end up dreading seeing another plate of fajitas or a basket of tortilla chips and salsa!

In the touristy town of Sonoma we ran into another Cinco de Mayo celebration and even in Florence, Oregon, retirement capital of that state, we were served Mexican egg soufflé for breakfast at our exclusive, historical b&b.  Our biggest surprise was Guadalajara’s, a sizable, bustling Mexican restaurant in the sleepy town of Shady Cove, Oregon, right next to the RV park.  Just outside of Mendocino we were so hungry we had to make a desperate stop at the first place we found by the road - you guessed it, organic Mexican tacos.  Finally in Seattle we had fantastic Vietnamese food.  Asian food has never tasted so good! 

We wondered if a few years or generations from now this cuisine will even be distinguished as ‘Mexican’ or if by then it will be so embedded in the locals’ tastes and customs that it will simply be absorbed into the local cuisine and be known as North Western cuisine, much like TexMex has become its own genre in the South West.

It will take me a few weeks to feel like having a burrito or nachos again but I have to concur with our friend who recommended we had to try Mexican food while in San Francisco.  Just take note that you might want to take advantage of other international cuisines earlier in your travels if you are headed North along the coast from there.

This article was posted by Veronica Montero

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