Chronicles of On The Road Travel

Christmas in Peru

Unlike many countries where families gather to celebrate on the 25^th, Peru’s tradition sees families gathering the night of December 24th to wait for midnight, have a nice dinner, exchange hugs, good wishes, and of course, presents.  Christmas dinner in Peru usually consists of baked turkey or pork, apple sauce, two or three varieties of salads, Arabic rice (rice cooked with noodles and coca-cola), a couple of light desserts and the traditional hot chocolate and panetón (a big, licorice-flavored muffin with raisins and candied fruit). And of course, lots of champagne and wine!

Christmas also brings original, unique celebrations to the Andes. In the community of San Pablo, located in the high Andes between Cusco and Puno, the ‘Carrera de Reyes’ (Race of the Magic Kings: Melchor, Gaspar and Baltasar) is celebrated. The names of these kings have been localized and changed to Inkarri, Mistirri and Negrorri (Inca king, creole king and black king) and the three compete in a horse race. The future of the region is decided based on the outcome of the race:

If Inkarri (representing the valleys in Cusco) wins, it will be a great year for the harvest.

If Mistirr (representing the ‘altiplano’ above 4000 meters above sea level) wins, this cattle raising region will have a good year.

If Negrorri wins, neither the altiplano nor the valleys will have a good year.

However, nobody loses in this tradition: if Negrorri wins, they say it may be a bad year for harvests and cattle raising, but money will be around anyway!

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

The Hulk Invades Rio de Janeiro

Bob Nadkarni, owner of The Maze Inn had been awaiting the arrival of a special guest...a green guest: the Hulk! For a few weeks in November, the narrow alleys of the hillside shantytown community Tavares Bastos were invaded by Edward Norton, William Hurt and the rest of the cast and crew making the new version of the film The Incredible Hulk. Parts of the movie, which is to be released in the U.S. in June 2008, were filmed in the B&B, including a dramatic jump (by a stuntman for Norton) out of The Maze’s panoramic picture window. Members of the cast also stayed in Bob’s art-filled pousada.

Around 100 residents of the Tavares Bastos community were also part of the action, working as crew and extras, or renting out their terraces for filming. The producers have promised to contribute R$10,000 towards the construction of a health clinic in the neighborhood, and to donate computer to the local school.

Scenes of The Hulk were going to be filmed around the Arches of Lapa and the beaches in Ipanema and Copacabana too, so look out for the famous landmarks when you see the movie.

This article was posted by Lee Weingast, our editor in Rio de Janeiro

Patagonia's Seven Lakes Route

CNN recently featured an article chronicling one man's trip along the Seven Lakes Route to San Martin de Los Andes with his brother and their wives. This stunning town, set off the banks of Lago Lacar, the last of the lakes on the 7 lakes route, makes an excellent day or weekend trip from Bariloche. A smaller, less populated version of Bariloche, San Martin de Los Andes is the gateway to the Chapelco Ski Resort. Since the opening of the ski hill, San Martin de Los Andes has become a booming tourist town year round and is a favorite destination of the Patagonian Lake District. A ruling against high rises has helped the town to maintain its charm despite expansive growth. The streets are lined with restaurants, artisan shops and chocolate shops, similar to those found in Bariloche.

The Seven Lakes Route is a stunning drive and should be on every itinerary to Patagonia. Although the first 50km of the route is paved, the second 50km is a dirt road which can make driving difficult, but definitely not out of the question. There are several viewpoints where you can stop off along the way. This makes it an ideal route for cycling or renting a car so that you are not at the mercy of other tourists on a bus when you want to stop and enjoy the view.

Check out our recommendations for traveling to Bariloche, Argentina.

Tango Queer

In the past thirty years the Tango has made a resurgence and is once again popular with young people in the bars and cafes of Buenos Aires. A new genre of Tango music has arisen which mixes traditional themes with electronica, and groups like The Gotan Project are now world renown. 

Also evolving is the idea and popularity of same-sex Tango, known as Tango Queer. This is partly a result of Buenos Aires’s reputation as the Gay Tourist capital of the World  - a title which it has won two years in a row at the international Gay Tourism Awards.

Just last November, Buenos Aires was host to the First International Queer Tango Festival and with it came record crowds of spectators who took classes, watched the competitions and listened to the music of Tango. Supporters say that Tango Queer isn’t just a form of Tango between two people of the same sex; it is about power issues and traditional roles within the dance. Having to learn both roles and dancing with the same sex changes the dance and the gender-issues related to it. 

There are now gay-friendly tango schools and milongas (dancehalls) emerging throughout the city, and the success of the festival ensures another one next November. To experience same-sex Tango visit one of the schools below – but remember if you are at a milonga (same-sex or traditional) and you make eye-contact with a dancer you will be required to dance. Whether you know how or not!

For more information:
A New Direction in Tango
The Kiss and Tango Guide to Buenos Aires
The History of Tango
Calendar of Events for Buenos Aires

Article and photo by Lucy Cousins, our editor in Buenos Aires

'IT' Destinations for 2008

I was a bit saddened to see Laos as the #1 choice of The New York Times' 53 Places to Go in 2008 list. It was ten years ago that I visited this beautiful, undeveloped country, arriving by long tail to the village of Xieng Kok. We spoke not a word in common with any of the residents, but managed to sign our way into a floor to sleep on and a hearty meal - no thanks to Lonely Planet's completely useless first guide to Laos.

The next day, after a complimentary snack of barbecued bat, we drew a picture of a truck and found ourselves on a 6 hour, 4-wheel-drive adventure to Muang Sing, which was known for its incredible marketplace that brought villagers from miles around, eager to sell their goods. We encountered a handful of travelers, but mostly we had the town to ourselves. We felt like we had discovered a new planet. Children would poke and prod, giggle and cry, but everyone was extremely friendly and welcoming. I'd show off some photos, but this was pre-digital-camera era. I shudder to think what this quaint little town looks like today. Are there hostels, pizza joints and internet cafes?

I've since heard stories of Luang Prabang, the beautiful  European city where we made friends with a young monk who hoped we would sponsor some school books for him. I also had a run in with a baby monkey that got a little to exited by my earring and nearly pulled my ear off. Apparently it is now home to boutique hotels and gourmet restaurants.

Our flight from Luang Prabang to Vientiene, which was an old army airplane we took to avoid bandits on the road, was memorable not only for the crazy turbulence, but also for the fact that we first encountered our pilot while he was peeing in the bushes lining the tarmac.

Although I hope that New York Times - style recognition won't ruin what is left of this amazing culture. I was happy to see that I've experienced a good portion of these destinations already (and even live in one of them... San Francisco!) and that my next destination, Panama, is represented. Hopefully it won't be overrun in the next two weeks before I arrive!

Travel Advice & Recommendations from Local Experts

Argentina Revisited

If last week's post, about how Argentina is currently one of the best values for your dollar, wasn't enough to convince you, this weekend's New York Times Travel section featured Argentina with much of the same message: The US dollar has remained steadily strong against the Peso at over 3:1, making it a travel bargain. 

Be sure to check out our recommendations and advice for traveling to Argentina before you go.

OTR’s Argentina Photos

Holiday Gift Ideas

The holidays are nearly upon us and it is well past the point where I will go near a mall or shopping center for anything. From Thanksgiving onwards, the only gifts I buy are those I can order online. My top gift choice this year is one that keeps on giving: The Kiva Gift Certificate.

Kiva is an online platform for retail microfinance lending. What does that mean? People like you and me can lend $25 to an entrepreneur in a developing country and help them create a sustainable business that will provide an income for themselves, their families, and often their entire village.

There was a great spot on CNBC the other night that explains the benefits of microfinance and how Kiva works.

Full Disclosure: I actually work with Kiva. Check out some of the entrepreneurs I have supported: Edis Ermelinda Varela, who has a clothing store in Honduras; Sundi Juma, who has her own movie hall; and Jacinta Ola, who pays the bills making ice blocks and pancakes (not sold together I hope!).

Kiva is fun and addictive, and makes a great gift for your culturally savvy friends and family members.

Cheap and Cheery Argentina

While the US dollar may be curtailing travel to most parts of the world, it continues to hold it's own with the Argentine Peso, at over 3:1. What does this mean for you, the traveler? A trip to Argentina will afford gourmet meals, luxury hotels and incredible culture -- all for a very reasonable price!

The New York Times Travel Magazine recently featured Buenos Aires in their 'The Get' column, in a similar fashion to the one we posted about earlier this week on São Paulo. The article features 7 great design finds in the Palermo Hollywood neighborhood, ranging from the Braga Menendez Gallery to one of our favorites, the Home Hotel.

If you are interested in fashion and design, Buenos Aires is a great destination. Read more about shopping suggestions and boutiques we like in Buenos Aires.

An added bonus? It is currently summer time in Argentina!

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Photo by Lucy Cousins
 

Inca Archaeological Pieces Return to Peru

The mayor of Urubamba has formally requested that the archaeological pieces that are now in Yale University, are not only brought back to Peru, but brought to the place from where they were originally taken, the Citadel of Machu Picchu.

He also declared that the Municipality of Machu Picchu will adapt a safe, special place for the exhibition of these pieces to the tourists that visit the Citadel daily.

Last September, the Municipality of Cusco announced that a museum to exhibit these pieces could be built inside the premises of the National University of Cusco, located close to the city’s main square. This announcement caused an reaction of protest from the people of Aguas Calientes, which relies heavily on traffic from visitors to Machu Picchu in order to fuel its economy.

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

A Brazilian Shopping Spree

One of the bonuses of traveling abroad is the unique (and often inexpensive) new designs you uncover. From housewares to trendy clothing, Latin America has a vast array of options that will make you wish you'd brought an empty suitcase!

The New York Times Travel Magazine recently featured eight great design options from São Paulo - ranging from a boutique publishing house to a furniture store featuring 'favela chairs' to a restaurant named Spot (appropriately named for it's fishbowl design... food's good too!).

São Paulo may be the capital of Brazil, but it's not the only design center. Many of Brazil's chic, emerging designs come straight from the coastal town of Rio de Janeiro. Read more about shopping in Rio.