Chronicles of On The Road Travel

An Epicurean Dilemma in Buenos Aires

An interesting situation took place over the past couple weeks concerning an article that caught my eye in the New York Times Travel Magazine about restaurants in the trendy neighborhood of Palermo Viejo in Buenos Aires. The author remarked that the restaurants were "more about the soaring interiors and designer cocktails than the food. It's not that a meal at this type of restaurant is bad, just generic: croquettes with clever fillings, crusted salmon served with a side of puréed something". He went on to almost plead for restaurants "which showcase Argentina's rich culinary history and its bounty", which in turn set off a tirade of opposition amongst expats in Buenos Aires who diligently read their Sunday Times, including one of my favorite restaurant bloggers at SaltShaker. Dan Perlman, the blog's author, felt that the NYT article missed the point of Buenos Aires' restaurant scene. Why did people assume that a country with a culture as strong as Argentina's must be limited to serving only local cuisine successfully?

The NYT author was clearly also a follower of the SaltShaker blog and sent his rebuttal back to Dan, explaining that he had not intended to dismiss creative efforts to introduce other styles into Argentine kitchens, but rather was pointing out options that were most likely to appeal to his audience -- travelers to Argentina. It is true that after extensive travel in a specific area (which can often mimic the lifestyle of an expat) one will eventually grow tired of the local cuisine and seek alternatives - after a few weeks in Thailand I just couldn't put down another green curry for the 25th night in a row! However, if I plan a 1 week trip to Argentina I am going to prepare my arteries for as much steak as they can possibly handle and probably won't take a break for a dinner at the local Thai restaurant.

We've kept these various travel styles in mind when researching our restaurant recommendations for OTR. Although we make sure there is a good selection of 'local cuisine' on the menu, we also have a section for those who need a break from local cuisine.

Happy Turkey Day!

This weekend being Thanksgiving in the U.S., the Epicurious Thanksgiving guide, Eat, Drink and be Thankful , may come in handy for some. It lays out complete menus including a ‘60-minute Feast’ and a ‘Healthy Holiday' option, detailed recipes, a long list of matching drinks (wines and cocktails), and other tips and ideas for centerpieces for the occasion. They even provide a collection of how-to videos for techniques such as brining and home-frying a turkey to make sure they don’t lose you along the way. It’s like cooking TV on-demand.

Much to my surprise, cooking a turkey is easier than it looks, as most people who have endured the right of passage will promise. I had my first experience this past Canadian Thanksgiving, my first time in charge of the turkey. Not only is the bird intimidating but also knowing that you are in charge of feeding a large group on this special occasion, can put a bit of pressure. Even more pressure for me was knowing that this is my brother-in-law’s favourite meal of the year...and he will not hold back the critique!

Having a couple of key tools made the job more manageable. A cooking thermometer (who knew I would ever own one!) and a baster were all I needed to add to my collection and now I know I have them for next year. One tip I will add to Epicurious’ list, however, is to ensure that you check that your oven is working properly before you start cooking. I must admit all I had ever used my oven for up to now was cooking frozen pizza. I was suspicious after cooking my turkey for over an hour and it hadn’t changed colour that something may be wrong. Initially I tacked it to the whole mystique of turkey cooking and thought ‘wow, they really do take their time’. After seeking expert advice I learned that while birds are slow to cook this wasn't normal so I adjusted the oven and things started happening. Five hours after I started cooking it, and two hours later than expected, the turkey was finally ready. To my advantage, some very hungry stomachs made sure that everyone thoroughly enjoyed their meal, including my brother-in-law. So maybe there is something to be said for having a slower than normal oven!

Happy Thanksgiving from OTR!

This article was posted by Veronica Montero

Travel Recommendations & Advice from Local Experts
 

The King of Latin American Cuisine

This month's Conde Naste Traveler features an article on Francis Mallmann, the renowned chef from Bariloche, Argentina who has managed to turn the world's taste buds South to the latest culinary fashion: Latin American Cuisine. After spending several years in Paris training under influential chefs, Mallmann returned to his native Argentina to pioneer a revolution in Argentine dining.

Argentina has long been recognized for its strong European influence. Particularly Buenos Aires, which is referred to as the 'Paris of the South'. This influence is equally strong when it comes to food and dining. Most restaurants don't get going until 10:30pm and meals can last well into the night. Although Argentina's population is largely of Italian descent (which is evident by the number of Italian restaurants you will find), Mallmann's French cuisine was a hit. However, Mallmann soon felt confined by the traditional french sauces and preparation methods, and moved on to create his own unique style of 'nuevo andean' cuisine, featuring techniques and ingredients from his Patagonian upbringing. Before long he became a household name in Argentina, preparing meals for the president, Carlos Menem, among others.

Mallman became famous internationally when word got out about Francis Mallmann 1884, a joint venture with one of Argentina's most famous vintners, Nicolas Catena. Tucked away in the historic Bodega Escorihuela winery, in the wine region of Mendoza, 1884 serves a meal that is well worth the trip.

Check out On The Road Travel for information on visiting Mendoza, the wine region of Argentina which is famous for its Malbec grapes.

A Taste of Latin America in Toronto

This past Saturday I went to Latin America, without stepping outside of Toronto.  Tucked in between Chinatown and the trendy Little Italy is Kensington Market, one of Toronto’s many ethnic neighbourhoods.  According to the official site the original settlers in the area were from the British Isles, later on it was the centre of the Jewish community, and after the war various European communities, predominantly Portuguese, settled here.  Today this is the place to go when you crave a flavour for Latin America but it’s too long to wait until your next trip south. 

We started our culinary tour with a taste of pupusas, fried plantains and yuca frita in a Salvadorean food shop that has a grill at the back and provides stools at the front for casual diners like us.  Pupusas are small corn tortillas cooked with different stuffings, ours were with beans and cheese, and served with a spicy sauce and salad on top.  It is the Central American version of the Venezuelan arepa.  This was also the first time I tasted fried plantains with melted cheese on top, a Salvadorean tradition, I gather.  This delicious treat alone will keep me coming back.  From here we stopped at the shop next door for an Inca Kola, the national soft drink of Peru, and moved on to Jumbo Empanadas (photo here), a Chilean establishment that has been serving massive empanadas of chicken, beef or veggies and humitas for 10 years.  Jumbo is a must do in this market and one of the few stops that has proper tables with chairs as a sit down option.  Next stop was what has to be the tiniest coffee shop in the city, Luis Coffee Shop at Agusta and Baldwin.  You squeeze your way in to grab a coffee which you can drink on the benches outside while watching the eclectic crowd walk by.

Kensington Market is where we used to seek out cheap eats and second hand leather jackets in my university days.  This neighbourhood’s proximity to the downtown core has recently secured its ‘up and coming’ classification, funky shops and restaurants already starting to pop up next to meat markets, cheese shops and fruit vendors.  Luckily the prices haven’t gone up market yet.  A whole $12 was spent getting a taste of Latin America on a Saturday morning.

This article was posted by Veronica Montero.

Travel Recommendations & Advice from Local Experts

Tourist Traps Worth Tasting

It's always a toss-up: whether to cave in and eat at the conveniently-located, higher-priced tourist restaurant, or trek your tired toes a little further off the beaten path in hopes of finding that hidden gem. Tourist attractions are always accompanied by a slew of kitschy restaurants that offer sub-par food.

SaltShaker, one of my favorite English-language Argentine blogs, wrote about this exact topic as it relates to that cute little strip across from the Recoleta Cemetary, referred to as the Village Recoleta. The author confirmed that, despite the wait-staff that beckons to you from the walkway to try their English menu, the folks tucked in to these charming outdoor patios are, in fact, locals who are simply willing to pay a bit more for good food.

The Village Recoleta can be a great option for people-watching, or a good break in the day if you are touring the area. Check out our guide for a tour of Recoleta and the parks of Palermo.

Hog Island Oysters   

Sunday was a perfect fall day in the Bay Area. We took advantage of the weather (and the fact that oysters are rumoured to be best in months ending with 'r') and celebrated Seth's 'crossing over into his thirty-something years' by taking a journey up the coast to the Hog Island Oyster Farm. What better way to celebrate than with friends, sunshine and lots of food & wine!

The day got off to a rough start: Worried that our oversized picnic would force us to monopolize the public BBQs, Seth had the brilliant idea of pre-cooking some tri-tip at home. Three tri-tips had been marinated to perfection the previous night and were ready for the grill. He threw them on the grill and decided to go for a run while they cooked. I took advantage of the spare time to work on the OTR model, make some appetizers and catch up on a few phone calls. On his way out the door he asked me to check on the BBQ to make sure that the beloved tri-tips were OK and if they seemed to be too hot I was instructed to turn down the BBQ...

To preface this story I should point out that the BBQ is NOT my domain. I cover prep, oven, and side dishes, but the BBQ is out of my scope. Besides, Seth is one of the best BBQ'ers I know, so I've never felt the need to learn the skill myself. Keep this in mind when I tell you that I assumed his last minute instructions meant I should merely ensure that the house didn't burn down while he was gone, not actively care for the steak.

An hour later I was sitting at my computer with tomato & bocconcini skewers in hand when I heard a knock at the door. My heart sank as I stepped into the hallway. It was filled with smoke and the stench of burned steak. I had completely forgotten about the treasured tri-tips! Seth immediately ran downstairs and returned shortly afterwards with three charred logs and a big frown. Happy Birthday to you!

We cut our losses and made our way to Point Reyes. Hog Island Oyster Company is located along Tomales Bay (they also have an outlet at the San Francisco Ferry Market for those who can't make the trip), a large inlet along the Point Reyes National Seashore that is fed by the Pacific Ocean. It's an idyllic spot we frequent for cycling, hiking and even kayaking. The shallow inlet is filled with Phytoplankton, making it an ideal spot for oysters to grow. Farmed oysters take 2 - 3 years to mature and, if left longer, can grow to be the size of a chicken breast (although these larger ones are a novelty, I do not recommend eating them).

Our previous oyster BBQs have been at Tomales Bay Oyster company, just down the road from Hog Island. It is a bit more laid back and less expensive but Hog Island is better for larger groups because they allow you to reserve tables in advance (and charge you a fee per person for this convenience). Both provide great views and fun atmospheres with picnic tables, charcoal BBQs and some of the utensils you'll need to prepare the oysters (gloves and a shucker). Fresh oysters can be bought by the dozen... be sure to bring your own sauce and a bottle of white wine!

San Francisco Favorites

A new, luxury travel website  launched last week, with a full out PR campaign at the MTV video awards. I recently spoke with JourneyPod's founder, who asked my opinion on favorite clubs and restaurants in San Francisco, as they are rolling out their destination guides for popular US cities. I had to warn him that its been years since I've been to a club (INSEAD not included), but that I had plenty to say about the restaurants in my favorite city. Here's a list of a few, keeping in mind the market that he is targeting:

Places I frequent:
- Fresca - modern Peruvian cuisine -- GREAT food and a large variety of ceviches. Trendy atmosphere, reasonably priced but not low-end.
- DOSA - trendy new south-Indian restaurant that opened recently in the Mission. Also very reasonably priced (more so than Fresca).
- CAV - another fun wine bar / restaurant on Market. Weird area but great staff, wines and food.

Places I should frequent:

- Tartine - a new wine bar/restaurant that spun out of the famous Tartine Bakery.
- EOS - restaurant / wine bar - you're probably noticing a theme here
- Kokkari - excellent high-end greek food. They have a sister restaurant in Palo Alto called Evvia
- Baraka - great Moroccan / Mediterranean food. Owner runs a couple of other good restaurants: Chez Maman, Chez Papa

Places I don't belong:
- supperClub - from the guys who do supperClub in Amsterdam, Rome, etc. its kind of a themed restaurant. You sit on beds while you eat (a bit like B.E.D. in miami) and they have these funky performances taking place while you eat (acrobats, drag queens, etc).
- Asia de Cuba at the Clift hotel - I've never been to the one here (but i've been to the one in New York). Supposedly a huge scene, as is the bar there, the Redwood Room.

Places I can't afford but will go if its on someone else's corporate tab:
- Gary Danko - hands down the #1 restaurant in the city
-  5th Floor - a bit stuffy / business like, but great food
- Jardiniere - french food, near the theater, opera, etc.

There's a new restaurant called NOPA that's been getting a lot of press but I haven't been yet...

Spending the long weekend in the city gave us the opportunity to add a few more to the list:

- Blue Plate - in the no-mans land south of Cesar Chavez. I've been here before but tend to forget about it because its sort of out of the way. Great ambiance and friendly service. The menu is a fun mix of comfort foods with a modern twist accompanied by a nice wine list. Notable favorites were the grilled romaine salad, mac & cheese, and figs with prosciutto di parma.

- Range - this one received lots of press when it first open but always seemed uncomfortably busy whenever I walked by. We gave it a try when we realized that the wine bar we were planning to try out didn't have a substantial enough menu for our appetites that night. We were not disappointed. My seared tuna, once a trendy favorite that I haven't seen on a menu in a while, was perfectly un-cooked in the middle and the chanterelle & bacon sauce added a nice rich flavour. I was also a big fan of the heirloom tomato salad which came complimentary for the longer-than-expected wait to get a table.

Those of you who take the time to check out Journeypod's San Francisco Destination Guide will notice that either my recommendations were a hit, or that someone else has great taste in food!

Here's a post from Veronica exploring the local finds North of the border...

Indian Food in Toronto – a Gem We Hope is Here to Stay

Leave it to me to talk about food…yet again!  I was thinking back to my choice of meals last week – Thai on Tuesday, Indian food on Wednesday, Thursday was Sushi, and on Friday we discovered a fantastic new local French restaurant (in Chinatown).  Yes, I do cook sometimes, but I like indulging in the abundance of flavours that Toronto has to offer at very reasonable prices, a sign of a mature North American city, in my opinion.  And there are some foods that are just best left for the experts to prepare, Indian food being at the top of this list for me. 

One of my favourite finds in Toronto this past year has been Lahore Tikka House.  Leading the pack of a long line of restaurants in ‘Little India’ on Gerrard St., it brings back memories of Brick Lane in London, the overwhelming choice and the scents hitting you as you walk along.  Once you’ve made your find you tend to stick to it, the risk of a bad dahl being incentive enough to make you a devoted customer.  In Little India in Toronto my chosen find is definitely Lahore Tikka House. 

The first time I visited this establishment, I was surprised that a place in this condition would have a license in a city as proper as Toronto.  It essentially consisted of a few trailers joined together, with food emerging from a kitchen hidden away in, one assumed, another trailer?  My husband and I, doubtful, decided to go along for the ride. We ordered our food at the front (lentil dahl, chicken tikka, chana masala, rice and naan to stick to the basics on our first visit), took our number, and the food magically started showing up at our table.  Greasy and bursting with flavour, we were converts at first bite!  There is something so decadent about shutting down your defences and just enjoying a good Indian feast with no regard to the calorie count.  The best part was getting our bill - $20 for a full meal for two. Curry comma already setting in, we knew this had to be one of the best deals in town.  We didn’t so much mind the smell of our impregnated jackets days later when we remembered the unforgettable meal we had enjoyed. 

We understood the scene a bit better when we later learned that the trailers were a temporary solution while the owner expanded the restaurant.  As this article in Now magazine mentions the owner is currently busy trying to keep up with the demand from locals.  The construction is almost finished, a large patio has now opened where the parking lot used to sit and the trailers will give way to a sizeable restaurant.  I’m glad to hear of the success of this restaurant, I just hope that this expansion doesn’t suffer the fate of so many gems that choose to grow to serve their customers better or when a good business opportunity seems at hand.  Sometimes part of the trick of staying a gem and keeping people coming back is making something difficult to attain, even if it means lining up to get your food, being subjected to a bit of chaos and smelling like an Indian restaurant for days after.  One hint of hope in this regard is the owner’s comment in the Now article when asked if he would capitalize on his success: "Life's too short to be all about money". 

We hope that our hotel and restaurant recommendations are run in the same spirit and that they can be successful while preserving their unique appeal. 

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Peruvian Food - Provecho!

As most of you know, we've recently added a new member to the On The Road management team. Veronica is our Director of Product and Technology, which means that she takes care of all the things that used to keep me up at night -- only she actually knows how to take care of them, so doesn't have to stay up all night! Veronica will also be contributing to both the blog and the site going forward. Although she now lives in Toronto, Veronica is originally from Peru and her parents still live there today. Fittingly, her first entry combines her heritage and one of my favorite subjects: food!

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I’ve always been a sucker for good food.  I get grumpy when I’m hungry and am always happy when I’m eating!  As they say in Peru – “Barriga llena, corazón contento!” (Your heart is content when your stomach is full.)  One aspect of Peruvian culture that can escape travellers is the extraordinary culinary experience that one can have when visiting this country.  There is so much to Peruvian food that I never know where to start when asked what Peruvian food ‘means’, and Lima is definitely a culinary Mecca that will not disappoint even the most demanding of foodies. 

I always start by describing a few of my favourites.  Everyone has heard of ceviche, the delicious dish of fresh fish cooked in limes, chilli (ají in Peru) and onions – a perfect summer dish, especially when eaten in a shack by the beach.  What many people don’t realize is that that potatoes and quinoa (the ‘Supergrain of the Future’!, according to the Quinoa Corporation) are native to the Andes and were staples of the diets of the Inka civilization and native cultures.  They continue to be important components of Peruvian meals.  Papa a la Huancaína is a dish from the northern province of Huancayo that is essentially potatoes covered in a sauce of feta cheese with ají.  Delicious in its simplicity, it’s usually served as an appetizer to any Peruvian feast. 

Peruvian BBQ comes in the form of anticuchos – skewered, marinated cow’s heart meat that is more flavourful and tender than any meat dish I’ve ever tried.  I promise it’s not as unappealing as it sounds.  As a child I was the pickiest eater (as my poor mom, who spent so many hours trying to get me to eat my dinners, will attest to!) but I would not think twice about an offer for an anticucho.  Mind you, it is possible I didn’t know it was cow’s heart I was eating back then!

And the list goes on.  Peruvian food is as rich in spices and flavours as it is the convergence of cultures that has come to life in a country that has the agricultural advantage of being able to produce a wide variety of produce all year round and a culture that is appreciative of good food and eating. 

As to where to go to get a taste of the real thing when in Lima, stay tuned for OTR’s recommendations coming soon.  A couple of all-time classics are José Antonio and Astrid y Gastón.  This last one is the creation of the latest sensation in Peruvian cuisine, Gastón Acurio, the enterprising, renowned chef who is in the process of opening franchises in major cities around the world, so soon you may not have to make the trip South to experience Peruvian cuisine (though we still encourage you to visit to get the full experience!).

If you want to try some of these recipes at home, I recommend my favourite cookbook: The Art of Peruvian Cuisine or if you don’t want to make the investment you can also get recipes for free at Yanuq, a website created and maintained by Peruvian cooks.

Provecho!!

Brisket and Matzo Ball Soup

Seth was feeling badly this week that he wasn't able to get back to his roots for Passover this year, so I thought it was time for my first foray into the kosher kitchen. I called up our local butcher who tried to pursuade me that I would need 3.5 lbs of meat for this mini-feast and then headed to the local market where they had a table of passover goodies. I was tempted by the packaged matzo ball soup, but didn't give in... I was on a mission.

I found a couple great recipies on Epicurious for both the soup and the brisket. Before too long I was wishing that I had bought the packaged soup. Having only eaten matzo ball soup 2 or 3 times in my life, I didn't really know what to expect. But when the matzo balls that I had meticulously mixed and molded crumbled before my eyes on their encounter with boiling water, I knew something had gone wrong. What to do... add more matzo meal! I kept adding the stuff until I felt like I was mixing cement. That did the trick -- at that point I didn't care what they tasted like, as long as they stayed together.

The brisket turned out perfectly, and, despite thinking we could feed the entire block with the piece of meat I had bought, our leftovers were minimal. For desert I had bought a strange treat -- Isreali marshmallows covered in coconut. Seth made fun of them and said that they would never match up to macaroons, but I noticed that by the end of the night the marshmallows had disappeared.

After dinner I received the ultimate compliment when Seth told me I would make a great candidate for J-date. Hmm....

Happy Holidays to everyone, whether you are celebrating Easter, Passover or whatever other holidays may be falling this weekend. I personally plan to celebrate both by heading to the Sierra's and finally taking advantage of the snow that has resulted from all this rain we've been getting in the city!