On The Road Again
We're back! After 7 frustrating days of waiting on hold with our less-than-stellar hosting company, and taking 2 steps back for every one step of progress thanks to their policy of not allowing technical support to speak with customers... we've finally fixed the issue! As we had expected, Startlogic had upgraded us to a new platform. It turns out platform 2.0 required programmers to do a number of changes to make sure that the files corresponded to the new platform. It would've helped if they'd let us know this before doing the migration. It probably would've also helped if they had copied over all of our files when they did this migration. Bygones... back to travel.
Time Stands Still in Guatemala
Daylight savings is a controversial topic in Guatemala. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't. Last year it came about out of the blue, with most locals not even realizing it was upon them. This year President Alvaro Colom has decided not to continue with the spotty policy, citing safety reasons. Despite saving approximately 60 megawatts of energy per day, the later sunrise would force many people to begin their walk to work in the dark, further exposing them to the threat of violence.
So -- if you're traveling to Guatemala, be sure to take this into account. Click here for more tips on traveling to Guatemala.
Travel to Brazil With Kids
The New York Times Travel Q&A column recently posted some suggestions for those planning to travel to Brazil with children. Many of the suggestions apply equally to adults: avoid tap water, strong currents and pollution, apply sunscreen liberally, etc. The comments beneath the article provide more substantial suggestions. Read how to spend a rainy day in Rio for recommendations of museums and other fairweather options.
Lots to do in Rio This Weekend
Carioca's may pause to take a breath after the Carnival celebrations but Rio de Janeiro hardly shuts down. This weekend is filled with events:
Tonight: Steel Pulse in concert at Vivo Rio. This world-famous British reggae band will be performing it’s politically charged—and yet upbeat-- songs for one night only in Rio.
Bob Dylan is playing at the Rio Arena Avenida Embaixador Abelardo Bueno (a new venue built to host the Pan-American games).
Cuban singer, Omara Portuondo, joins forces with Brazilian Maria Bethania (sister of Caetano Veloso, and fellow Tropicalista) at Caneção.
Orquestra Lunar, the 10-member all-woman band which has been gaining popularity with its quality version of samba, choro and ballads, is playing at Sala Baden Powell.
Casuarina,a group of five young musicians who play traditional samba tunes in an informal “roda” (circle) will be performing at the Teatro Odisseia.
The Maze Inn will be hosting Jazz / Samba /Bossa on the hill.
Fore more information on these and other events taking place in Rio this weekend, check out our calendar of events.
Trip Tips for Argentina
The December issue of Budget Travel featured Buenos Aires in its Trip Coach column, providing tips to two sisters who would be visiting the city for the first time. Given it was a first-time trip, the usual suspects came up in the list: Casa Rosada, Evita Museum, the Recoleta Cemetary, and a day trip to Tigre. The article did have a few good suggestions for boutiques (a Buenos Aires specialty... there can never be enough recommendations here), including Divia Shoes and the Design Center.
Click here for more great tips on visiting Buenos Aires and unique things to do.
Naomi Campbell's Secret Surgery?
Some news from the tabloids... it seems that former supermodel Naomi Campbell is one of the many who has discovered that Salvador de Bahia, the heart of afro-brazilian culture, is THE place to be for Carnival. She may also have figured out that Brazil is also one of the top destinations for plastic surgery tourism. Insider's seem awfully secretive about her apparent 'cyst removal', but it seems a bit odd that she would fly all the way to Brazil for this kind of procedure!
Where the dazzling world of the Patagonia Begins
The February 2008 edition of Travel and Leisure Magazine has a wonderful feature on Bariloche. I can't seem to find the article online, so I thought I would reference it before it leaves the magazine stands. The article chronicles a road trip through Argentina's outstanding Lake District, exploring the beautiful towns and parks along the way. The town of Bariloche (the starting point for discovering the region) has become an all-season resort with plenty to do in both the warm summer months as well as the cooler, snow-filled winters.
Bariloche itself is fairly small and can be covered on foot. However, we highly recommend renting a car for at least one day to explore the surrounding area. This will allow you to plan your own schedule and spend as much time as you'd like admiring the views from the surrounding areas. Click here for more information on driving the regions 'Long Circuit' through Villa Traful, Villa Angostura, the quaint town on the northwestern shore of Lake Nahual Huapi, and ending in San Martin de Los Andes, the stunning village set off the banks of Lago Lacar, the last of the lakes on the 7 lakes route. If this scene isn't laid back enough for you, continue on to El Bolson, Patagonia's Hippie Headquarters.
Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts
The Magic of Miró
If you're planning to be in Buenos Aires in the next few weeks, be sure to check out this exhibit. Over 60 works of art are on display at the Centro Cultural Borges reflecting the wide career of Catalan artist Joan Miro. There are over 35 drawings and 28 etchings in addition to a collection of paintings.
The Centro Cultural Borges is located inside Gallerias Pacificas - one of the best and most beautiful shopping centres in Buenos Aires. Historial buildings, boutique stores and lots of shiny surfaces - well worth a visit.
For more information on this and other events in Buenos Aires, check out our Calendar of Events
Carnival 2008 Photos
While Rio de Janeiro is recovering from a Carnival hangover, Lee Weingast, our editor in Rio, has posted these photos from the event..
Beckham's Brazilian Resort to Support Aspiring Local Soccer Stars
The New York Times this weekend reported that soccer star David Beckham is building a luxury resort for athletically-inclined travelers in Brazil. Located near the coastal town of Natal, the resort will feature a professional training center with eight soccer fields and a stadium that seats 10,000, in addition to three hotels, a spa, fully equipped gym and private residences.
The complex will also be home to the third David Beckham Soccer Academy, a camp for young aspiring athletes. A five-day session at the US campus costs nearly $1,000, however the Brazilian Academy will offer a scholarship program for Brazilian children. Click here to read more about soccer in Brazil.
Panama City: The Five Hour Tour (Part Two)
You see? There is alot you can squeeze into five hours! We left off at Cerro Ancon in Part 1...
My quick tour of the city left me pleasantly surprised. Despite the fact that nearly every corner of the city is under construction, anxiously awaiting another condo development or high rise to add to the competition, there are some areas that ooze charm and welcome visitors with open arms.
Panama City has the benefit of a great location, tucked in along the Pacific Coast. Avenida Balboa runs along the Bay of Panama from Punta Paitilla in the east and feeding through to Casco Viejo at the western tip of the Bay. Casco Viejo is a colourful neighborhood filled with European architecture and beautifully restored buildings (many still in progress). These unique features are surely the reason it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
I had visions of exploring every nook and cranny and discovering wonderful art galleries to bring home authentic gifts, but sadly a 5 hour tour doesn't allow for authentic discoveries. Instead we did a quick runthrough of all the highlights, from parks to museums to the beautiful views from Plaza de Francia, where we treated ourselves to much-needed sno-cones. From here you can see the bay, the city, the opening to the canal and the Bridge of the Americas. I was pleasantly surprised by the Museum of the Panama Canal, which caught our interest for its modern approach. For the $2 entry fee, it's worth checking out, even if you do the 15 minute breeze-through as we did.
We were excited to hear that Nacho had a cancellation and would be able to accompany us for another hour or two. We hopped in his car and headed to the Miraflores Locks, a tourist-accommodating platform for viewing ships as they enter and exit the Canal. The Miraflores platform is perched above the Miraflores Locks, with several floors of observation deck and of course a restaurant and souvenir shop. I was a bit skeptical about this one.. after all, how exciting can a big set of locks be when you're being trampled by paparazzi-like tourists on a mission? But the Canal and the locks had caught my eye while we were preparing to land on the flight from Bocas and I figured: how can you go to Panama City without seeing the Canal? It was actually fascinating to see the boats coming through and realize that they actually were tailor-made to squeeze through this exact canal. Barely an inch to spare on either side (or at least from our vantage-point!). We could also see where they are beginning construction on a larger, parallel canal to accommodate more modern, larger ships.
With an extra 45 minutes to spare, we made our way to the Amador Causeway at the western tip of the city, which connects three small islands filled with restaurants and shops, and offers outstanding views (great for sunset!). We capped off the day with a drink at Nacho's favorite restaurant on Flamenco (the farthest out), watching the sun set over the multi-million dollar yachts in the marina. As we were leaving, two Lamborghinis flew by... not the Panama City I had been expecting.
Read more about 5 hours in Panama City and see photos here..
Lots to Do in Lima, Peru
This past weekend's San Francisco Chronicle featured a great article about Peru's cultural capital. Christian Mesia, a Peruvian native and a consultant to Peru's National Institute of Culture, reveals his favorite spots around town -- from archeology sites to restaurants to the beach.
OTR's Veronica Montero, who is also a native of Peru, recently returned from a visit and brought us a list of great day trips from Lima.
For more recommendations and articles, check out our relevant readings for Lima.
Ines of My Soul
Ever since I finished The House of the Spirits, I have been seeking the opportunity to read more of Isabelle Allende's work. I took advantage of a week without electricity in Panama to dive into her latest novel, Ines of My Soul. I love reading historical fiction, even more so when it is based in my favorite region of the world, Latin America.
This story follows the life of Inés Suárez, a woman of great power and accomplishment during the time of the Spanish conquest in Latin America. She is an actual historical figure and events in the book are 'creatively' based on documented historical facts. I am far from being a lit. major or book critic, so any attempt to explain the story's strengths and weaknesses would be much less useful than the reviews you'll find on Ines of My Soul. I can tell you that it was a great read, and highly recommend it for anyone who is interested in Latin American history, or who is planning to travel in the area.
If you're the type of person who likes to read books about the country you're in or are traveling to, check out our recommended readings sections for Argentina, Brazil, Guatemala and Peru.
The Body Exhibit in Buenos Aires
If you have missed this traveling exhibition, you can still catch it here in Buenos Aires. Consisting of 16 bodies and 200 human organs, The Body Exhibition, is confronting but highly educational. The bodies, which were donated to science, have been preserved in wax and stripped so that muscles and bone can be seen.
The exhibit is being held at the Abasto Shopping Center until March 3rd. For more details and other events in Buenos Aires, check out our calendar of events.
More Carnival in Brazil...
Right after finishing yesterday's post about Carnival in Rio de Janeiro, I sat down to my favorite Sunday activity - the New York Times Travel section - and found this mini-guide to experiencing Carnival outside of Rio de Janeiro. The article brings up a great point, which is that Carnival can be enjoyed throughout all of Brazil, not just in Rio. In fact, Salvador de Bahia is often referred to as the heart of Carnival, thanks in part to the surrounding Afro-Brazilian influence.
The author also recommends Morro de São Paulo, a nearby favorite of mine. This charming island is a short flight or ferry ride from Salvador and offers a fun beach setting with plenty of character.
Whether you're in for the full-blown tourist show in Rio, or you want to experience a 'smaller town' version of the party, one thing is for sure... if you don't have a room booked by now, you'll be sleeping on the beach!
For more articles on Brazil, click here.
Preparation for Carnival in Rio de Janeiro
Brazil's Carnival is less than a week away, but preparations have been underway for months now. Samba schools start rehearsing almost immediately after carnival ends, to be prepared for the following year's event.
Dance routines aren't the only preparations taking place in Rio. Plastic surgeons are busier than ever prepping local women for the big show. Click here to read the story of one Samba dancer / model / recent-celeb who has achieved fame by flaunting her silicon stuff to the crowds of Carnival attendees.
Health officials are also busy in an effort to distribute nearly 20 million condoms by Carnival's Grand Finale on Ash Wednesday.
If cosmetic surgery tourism isn't your thing, there are plenty of activities taking place that you should not miss this week in Rio. The Roda Gigante (giant ferris wheel) has been set up at Post 6 on Copacabana beach, courtesy of the Skoll beer company. You can enjoy outstanding views of the Bay while taking in a DJ show on the beach below. If it's culture you're seeking, the Paço Imperial, a former palace of Portuguese Royalty, is displaying The Image of the Sound of Samba, where works of art inspired by samba songs are shown along with the lyrics and headphones to hear the music.
For more details on these and other activities leading up to Carnival, check out our Calendar of Events for Rio de Janiero. Read more about Carnival in Brazil and listen to our podcast...
Travel Trends for the New Year
Travel & Leisure magazine has listed the top 5 trends that will change travel in 2008. Most of these suggestions are unremarkable (ecotravel has been on the rise for years, spas are always getting more luxe), but I did think it was interesting that they pointed to Latin America as a top destination offering good value, specifically Mexico, Brazil and Argentina. Again, this isn't a new trend, but is certainly a more obvious one in the face of a weak US dollar.
I would also commend their realization that hotels are moving towards providing a home away from home. These are exactly the types of hotels that we focus on in our recommendations:
In Peru's Sacred Valley, Kuychi Rumi offers six individual guest houses offering two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a living room and a wonderful patio, all at a very affordable price.
On the shores of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, you can kick back at Terraza Choi and enjoy the views from the comforts of this beautiful, modern home.
In Rio de Janeiro, the coastal city that never sleeps, you have your choice of a variety of bed and breakfast options in the artsy, hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa. Cama e Cafe will match your travel preferences with one of the 50+ homes in their network.
Despite its big-city feel, Buenos Aires has plenty of options for a 'home away from home'. Suites hotels such as Artsuites, Design Suites and Soho All Suites offer apartment-style accommodations with full kitchen and living areas. This is a great way to get to know a city at your own pace, relaxing in your suite with a meal on down days and exploring the city when you've caught your breath again!
Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts
National Geographic Documents Peru's Cosmic Clash
Professionals from the National Geographic Channel arrived in Peru last December to prepare for an upcoming documentary about the meteorite that landed on the community of Carancas in Chuchito. You may remember back in September, a meteorite fell from the sky, leaving a crater 65 wide and 15 feet deep. The National Geographic crew have have been doing their investigations together with specialists of the Geophysics Institute of Peru. We'll keep you posted on this film which should be presented later this year. In the meantime, if you're really interested in the meteorite, it looks like you can buy a slice on eBay!
Make Yourself At Home In Rio
What could be better than waking up to the sounds of birds chirping and experiencing the carioca lifestyle by staying in a private home in the charming, artsy hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa?
Cama e Café is an agency which will find you a comfortable place to stay in one of the 50+ homes in their network. Accommodations range from modern apartments to colonial mansions, many have views of the city below and some have verdant grounds with fruit trees. Many of the hosts are artists or are connected to the local arts scene and many will provide info on local events, transport, sightseeing and safety.
Click here to find out more and book your stay in a colonial mansion in Rio!