Panama City: The Five Hour Tour
I'm not usually a fan of spending much time in big cities when I travel. You never really capture the essence unless you've lived there and gotten to know your favorite haunts. That being said, connections and transit usually make it unavoidable, in which case you may as well make the best of it.
If you're doing the 'quick tour', the best way to get the most of your time is to hire a private guide. We found our perfect host in Ignacio Vigil, an English-speaking Panamanian taxi driver who knows the city like the back of his hand.
Ignacio picked us up at the airport upon our arrival from Bocas and launched us in to a whirlwind historical and cultural preview of his city, beginning with El Chorrillo, a place he warned us not to return to on our own. This used to be the home of Panama's Defense Force Headquarters, but was torched in 1989 at the height of the US-Panamanian tensions along with the homes of thousands of families living in nearby 'multifamiliares'. The US later financed a reconstruction project which brought more cement high rises and eventually crime and disorder.
In contrast to many Latin American slums which are often located in the hills, El Chorrillo lies at the base of Cerro Ancon, one of the wealthier neighborhoods in the city. This was our next destination. Cerro Ancon, of course, is part of the former 'Canal Zone' which was inhabited by Americans and generally off limits to Panamanians. This stunning neighborhood, and nearby Balboa and Albrook, are mixed with old officers homes contrasted by new subdivisions housing young professionals and those studying / teaching at the nearby international schools. Not surprisingly, it reminded me a lot of the Presidio in San Francisco. At the top of the hill is a lookout, providing outstanding views of the city, including a wide angle view of the canal. The Panamanian flag stands proudly atop the hill, having lost its American companion years ago.
Ignacio ("nacho") can be reached at 011-507-6670-9374, [email protected]. Be sure to contact him well in advance... a notable mention in the LA Times travel section last year has meant that his business is booming. His fee was $10 per hour. You will also appreciate his well-maintained, air-conditioned car which recently got a suspension upgrade for client's satisfaction.
More to come on our tour of Panama City...
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