Buenos Aires Football: an (almost) religious experience

Argentines love football. They love it so much that sometimes it clouds their judgment. Like their infallible love for one of Argentina’s most famous football players, Diego Maradona. His abilities on the pitch are so fondly remembered, that his dalliances with cocaine, his extra-martial affairs, and his tax evading attempts have all but been forgotten. There is even a church of Maradona, with a Christmas-like ceremony held on the day of his birth. How is all this relevant? Well, because of this undying passion, Argentina is one of the best countries to have the ultimate football experience.

Right now, the local league is right in the middle of the season. So there are games every week, and every weekend. The two key players are River Plate, the upper middle class team with a huge stadium in the richer suburbs, and Boca, the blue-collar team with horse-shoe stadium in the port. Each time they clash head-to-head, the game is known as ‘El Clasico’ – and you are more or less guaranteed a good fight (on and sometimes off the field). As passion sometimes gives way to fury, it is better to go to a game wearing neutral colors, and without your beloved expensive 35mm, long-lens Cannon camera. Games held during the week, are generally safer and less frequented by the locals. Weekend games attract anyone, and everyone, and tend to become a bit more heated between fans of opposing teams.

Tickets can be bought at each stadium but if you are a little apprehensive about going it on your own, there are some great tour companies who will organize the outing for you. You will pay a little more, but sometimes a local guide, who speaks the language, is invaluable. We recommend www.tangol.com, and www.cheviajero.com.ar

Local insider tips are: 1) Research the colors of each team, and don’t wear either! Try not to wear too much jewellery or expensive watches, 2) there are no women’s toilets – drink less beforehand! 3) generally you aren’t allowed to bring in liquids, also the food/drinks on sale are basic, and widely sought out – lines can be enormous. Eat before you go, and finally 4) ask a local to teach you some of the chants – that way you won’t feel to out of it when the whole stadium is rocking to the sounds of 30 000 voices! Check out our Calendar of Events for game dates and more!

This article was posted by Lucy Cousins, our editor in Argentina.