Chronicles of On The Road Travel

Top 10 Cities in the World

Travel and Leisure has released it's Best of 2007 list and it is no surprise that Buenos Aires has ranked #2 in the Top 10 Cities list, right behind Florence, Italy. Other cities in the top 10 include Bangkok, Rome, Sydney, New York, Udaipur, Istanbul, San Francisco (yay!) and Cape Town.

Buenos Aires is Argentina's largest and most cosmopolitan city. Indeed its European style and architecture is reminiscent of many parts of Paris and Barcelona. Porteños, or inhabitants of Buenos Aires, are known for their pride in their culture. A passion rings throughout Buenos Aires, whether it is among crowds discussing politics, bars with football spectators, clubs with tango dancers, or parks with couples making out. There is plenty to see and do in Buenos Aires including excellent restaurants, world-class arts and entertainment and nightclubs filled with Latino ambiance.

The ‘Paris’ of Latin America has a selection of hotels that could rival its European sister. Styles range from the infamous and posh Alvear Palace Hotel, where Evita used to take tea to the sleek and trendy Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero. Suites hotels and trendy boutique hotels have been popping up throughout the city providing an excellent option for families and business travelers, for whom the quaint B&B’s lack the necessary amenities.

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Soak Up Latin America's Culture in California

Earlier this summer the Museum of Latin American Art celebrated the completion of its new building which will house its expanding collection. In this new facility you will find a 1,000 square-foot gallery, an educational art studio, a film screening room and a research library.

The museum itself has only been around since 1996 and is the only museum in the western United States that exclusively features contemporary Latin American art. The permanent exhibition presents a selection of over 75 works of art reflecting the Latin American aesthetic of the blending of cultures—Indigenous, European and North American. The museum also has a growing events program including salsa classes and a travelers program which offers behind-the-scenes tours of museums, critically acclaimed exhibits, art fairs and biennials, meetings with up-and-coming artists, visits to cutting-edge galleries and architecturally interesting landmarks throughout the United States, Spanish-speaking Caribbean, Central and South America.

Molaa is open Tuesday - Sunday. Friday's are free! It is a great way to take in the Latin American art scene if you can't make your way down to Buenos Aires' MALBA.

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Friday Funny: Monkey Head

Ever see people with 'big hair' and wonder if they've got something living in their hair, or if they are storing frequently-needed accessories in there? One man took this to an entirely new level this week, traveling from Lima, Peru to New York with a monkey hidden in his hair. Apparently the marmoset was noticed by fellow passengers who cleverly asked the man if he knew he had a monkey on his head...

Sounds like the little guy was pretty well behaved, but was nonetheless greeted by the authorities upon landing and will face a month-long quarantine.

Note to self: leave pet monkey at home.

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The Thirty Best Island Beaches

Last month's Conde Naste Traveler published the ultimate worldwide beach finder, in which they chose their favorite Island beaches. We were not surprised, but a bit saddened, to see the spotlight shine on Brazil's  Fernando de Noronha. This exclusive island's Baía do Sancho has long been one of our favorite beaches in the world.

Fernando de Noronha is a Scuba Diver’s paradise located about 200 miles off the northeastern coast of Brazil. With a population of only 2,500 and a limit of 700 visitors at any given time, the island has managed to remain an unspoiled gem. The Environment Preservation Tax which escalates daily serves to keep people from settling in for too long and helps to maintain the local ecology.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002, Fernando de Noronha is also home to some of Brazil’s best, and most secluded beaches. Since the number of visitors to the island is limited, it is rare to find a crowd on any of the beaches. Conceição is one of the longer and more popular beaches on the island. Porcos Bay is unique for its natural pools and provides breathtaking scenery. Leão beach is where the sea turtles lay their eggs -- a famous local event.

Baía do Sancho may seem like an effort (after a short hike you literally have to climb down a 100-foot ladder that is bolted into the cliff, through a narrow passageway that finally leads you to the beach) it is well worth it. This stunning beach is one of the most picturesque on the island. Although everyone will have their Favorite Noronha Beach, nothing really compares to having an entire beach to yourself – here its possible.

There is plenty to do on the island and accommodations to fit every traveler. Travelers on a budget should consider Mar Azul, a simple yet cozy option which is also a  popular hangout in late afternoons when guests lounge in the hammocks out front. Travelers seeking a bit more luxury will love Pousada Teju-Açu, a quaint yet luxurious ecolodge located on the route to Conceicao Beach.

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A Great Site for Buying Unique Imports

I found this website while reading the book Eat, Love, Pray, which I wrote about last week. The Author, Elizabeth Gilbert, meets the woman who runs Novica while living in Indonesia. Her work with the United Nations High Commissioner on Refugees brought her to developing countries around the world and gave her exposure to some incredible and entrepreneurial artists. In Elizabeth's words, Novica 'supports indigenous artists all over the world by selling their products on the Internet'. I was immediately intrigued, dropped the book, and looked up the website.  It was so excited to find this incredible resource for unique home decor, jewelry, apparel and paintings. You can search the site by items or regions (products are sourced from the Andes, Bali, Brazil, India, Mexico, Thailand and West Africa). What is most interesting is that each product comes with a detailed description of the artist, including their life story and the factors that influenced their artwork. Novica.  is definitely worth checking out if you are the type of person who always returns from a journey wishing you'd bought more local artwork but didn't have the luggage capacity to bring it with you!

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National Geographic Highlights the Maya Civilization

This month's issue of National Geographic has a wonderful feature on the Maya Civilization. The Maya people inhabited the lands of southern Mexico and Guatemala over 3,000 years ago. The Mayan civilization mysteriously collapsed after 900 AD and the jungle took over many of these areas. The article presents the latest findings surrounding the rise and fall of this intriguing culture.

Much like the Egyptians and the Romans, the Mayan people were way ahead of their time when they constructed temples in honour of the Mayan rulers and deities. Tikal, Guatemala was the largest of the cities of the Mayan civilization. The temples and hieroglyphics here demonstrate not only architectural genius, but also show traces of a civilization far more advanced than many ever believed. Although it may be hard to believe, Flores island was once the political capital of the Maya Itza Confederation.

Tikal can easily be reached in a day trip from any number of tour providers in Flores. It is also possible to fly from Guatemala City to Flores and see the ruins in a day, returning to Guatemala City that evening.

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Shopping in Cusco, Peru

Cusco is a wonderful place for shopping...from textile products to jewelry and all kinds of handcrafts!

Local textile art is known worldwide for the quality of its fiber, like the valued baby alpaca (wool from the first shear), and the colourful and fashionable designs of sweaters, ponchos, gloves, hats, scarves, vests, blankets, etc. Also keep in mind that prices here are far more affordable than what you will find in the international market. 

Ceramics are also a very symbolic artwork in Cusco, particularly the aribalos, a type of container that comes in various sizes and generally features Inca motifs or recreations of pre-inca 'huacos'.  Ceramicas Seminario is one of the best places to buy unique ceramic artwork (see below).

Among the jewelry you will mostly find earings, bracelets, and necklaces in silver or gold, simulating designs of what was found in Inca tombs.  Hallmarked silver jewelry is particularly admired for its unique designs and quality. Peruvian silversmiths are thought to be among the best in the world.

Peruartcrafts was established six years ago by young Peruvian businessmen who wanted to gather expressions of art, handicraft and textiles under one brand name or, as its slogan reads, ‘Peru under one roof’.  They now have four stores – two in Lima and two in Cusco – that offer high-quality souvenirs and products, ranging from fine alpaca accessories and clothing, ceramics, home décor, music and a bookstore to jewelry made by the best artisans in Peru.  In addition, they offer delivery to hotels and carefully prepare merchandise to be sent abroad (they get special rates through DHL).   

Working directly with native communities in Peru, the Cusco store is currently presenting an exhibit of handcraft made by members of the Misminay community, 40 km northwest of Cusco.

Check out OTR for more tips on shopping in Cusco.

Eat Pray Love

My sister-in-law recently sent this book to me and I had to recommend it because it is such a great travel read... or read for travelers. Elizabeth Gilbert is a lost 30-something woman who leaves her life behind for a one-year adventure to find herself in the three I's: Italy, India and Indonesia.

This story is evenly divided recounting her travels in each of the three countries. What caught me most about the book is Elizabeth's sincere yet unapologetic storytelling and her self-deprecating tone. She experiences independent travel in its best form: by living in the countries she visits and immersing herself in the local cultures. In Italy she discovers the pleasures of life through pasta and Italian lessons; in India she explores devotion by living in an Ashram and practicing meditation; in Indonesia she finds true happiness and observes its benefits spilling over to those around her as she manages to raise the funds for a local woman and her family to buy a proper home.

Elizabeth is well-traveled, which makes her stories that much more appreciable. One of my favorite passages of the book is this one:

"I have always felt, ever since I was sixteen years old and first went to Russia with my saved-up babysitting money, that to travel is worth any cost or sacrifice. I am loyal and constant in my love for travel, as I have not always been loyal and constant in my other loves. I feel about travel the way a happy new mother feels about her impossible, colicky, restless newborn baby - I just don't care what it puts me through. Because I adore it. Because it's mine. Because it looks exactly like me. It can barf all over me if it wants to - I just don't care."

It's a great read for armchair travelers as well as those on the road!

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Swing Your Way Through Guatemala's Lake Atitlan

Now there's one more reason to visit one of Central America's most beautiful sites: an adventure-activity reserve on the shores of Lake Atitlan. If after days of relaxing by the lake you are ready for a little more action, “swing” by Reserva Natural Atitlan for a dose of adrenaline. Only a ten-minute walk from busy Panajachel, you will find a small oasis of nature.

The Canopy tour is made up of five zip-lines that take you from the mountaintop, through dense vegetation and breathtaking views, all the way down to the lake. The guides are fully bilingual (English and Spanish) and the equipment is professional as are the facilities.

There are self-guided nature trails that lead you to some of the other attractions the park has to offer, like the open enclosure with observation deck that oversees families of monkeys, raccoons and coatimundi (a member of the raccoon family with a long snout and bear-like paws), a museum, butterfly sanctuary and orchid preserve.

For more information on the Canopy Tours click here or find out more about Lake Atitlan.

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Great New Photos!

Some of you may have noticed some of the changes we've been adding to the site lately. Now you can add your Flickr photos to your OTR Travel CV and travel diaries.

We've also added some new photos on the country and city pages. Here are a few that came from Scott Henderson, a former colleague of mine:

Frey Hut, Nahuel Huapi National Park, Bariloche, Argentina

Rio de Janeiro's Centro, Brazil

Donkey in Iruya, Salta Province, Argentina

If you have photos you'd like us to post send them to [email protected]