Christmas in Buenos Aires
If you’re looking for a quiet, peaceful Christmas, avoid Buenos Aires. Argentines celebrate Christmas quite differently than what you may be used to. Christmas Eve, the primary day of festivities, is usually celebrated with a family dinner, although young people sometimes go out to party.
Throughout the evening, and especially right at midnight, people set off firecrackers all over the city. There are few regulations on firecrackers in Buenos Aires, and those that exist are not enforced. It can be loud and even kind of scary for those with sensitive nerves, as children fill the streets to light fireworks indiscriminately (often unsupervised) and stray dogs run the street, terrified. It’s best to be safe and sound on a rooftop terrace somewhere to watch the display. Make sure you get there early as public transportation shuts down at around 9 pm. Gift giving is not a big phenomenon at Christmas
and is usually reserved for kids, who may get gifts from Santa. As the economy improves, the upper class has begun to adopt a North American tradition of buying gifts for family and loved ones though.
Christmas Day is usually spent having an outdoor BBQ and/or party with friends or family. Almost everything will be closed on Christmas Eve. Some supermarkets and restaurants will be open on Christmas Day from 12 pm onward. If you want to avoid a 4th-of-July-type celebration, you’d best go to the countryside. Patagonia is a good choice – fireworks are outlawed there.
Happy Holidays!
This article was posted by Ande Wanderer, On The Road Travel's Editor in Argentina.
Thanks for your comment. These are just my personal observations. When I arrived in 2003 many of the people I knew here were unemployed or underemployed and not in a position to buy gifts.
As a shopkeeper Pablo Pérez says in this article, Tiempos del Mundo Christmas-time sales have steadily increased since 2001:
“With the economic crisis of 2001 there were difficult years when there really wasn't any Christmas spirit, but with the recuperation of purchasing power and consumerism the people have begun to fully live Christmas."
I don't think there is any doubt that the economy is now improving. According to the Universidad Nacional de San Martin the Argentine economy has experienced 46 consecutive months of growth and seen 8.3% growth this year alone. Clarín
Thankfully, I still haven't seen the frenzied Christmas shopping sprees you see in the U.S.
Posted by: Ande Wanderer | December 23, 2006 at 08:30 PM
I really don't think people in Argentina is adopting the tradition of giving christmas present because the economic situation is getting better. Better than when? Your post leads to think we are better now than ever before. Unfortunately it's not true. On the other side, in many families, including mine, presents giving has always been a tradition, for all ages members. I appreciate your post, but it sounds somewhat misleading. Greetings.
Posted by: Naná Traful | December 21, 2006 at 02:33 PM