Machu Picchu From a Different Perspective

Last weekend's New York Times featured an article on Machu Picchu. Not the kind of news you want to hear, but sadly a fact of life in developing countries that are relying on tourism as a dominant industry. As tourism in Peru grew, so did the number of foreigners on the Inca Trail. At its peak, the historic route was littered with trash and crowded with travelers. A few years back, the government put restrictions in place limiting the number of people who could enter the trail to 500 per day and requiring tourists to be accompanied by a 'registered guide'.

Along with government restriction comes people who want to beat the system. As companies saw their potential market decrease some of them looked for ways to increase their profits. This came at the cost of mis-treated employees who were forced to accept lesser terms, typically in wages, in order to keep their jobs. Further, a number of fraudulent operators emerged promising tour packages to foreigners who were oblivious to the rule, even though they were not registered guides.

Some friends recently ran into problems when they booked a tour on the Inca Trail through the Internet. They arrived in Cusco only to find that the company they booked with didn't actually have permits for them to hike the trail. Not only were they out-of-pocket for the tour price, they were also unable to secure a replacement permit and didn't get to hike the trail (permits should be obtained three months in advance during high season).

Hiking the Inca Trail isn't the only way to see the famous ruins of Machu Picchu. Those who aren't up for the trip now have the option to stay at a luxury hotel and wake up right next to the ruins. Those on a budget can do as I did a few years ago and stay in nearby Aguas Calientes where there are a number of budget hotel options. It is a 20 minute bus ride from A.C. to the gates of Machu Picchu and if you catch the first bus out in the morning you'll feel as though you have the ruins to yourself - almost. I have to admit, I felt a pang of jealousy when I saw hikers coming over the crest to their destination after 4 days of hiking, but it quickly went away when I lost myself in the view.

As the NYT article mentions, there are several alternative hiking options in the area. We hired a guide who took us on an adventure through the valley to Vilcabamba, where the lost city was originally thought to be located. Without a tourist in site, we were able to roam the ruins, explore the small town, and enjoy a meal with a local family. Along the way we spent the night in the tiny village of Santa-Teresa where the local children toured us through the village and invited us to watch their soccer game. Our guide then took us to Quillabamba where he had grown up in the surrounding jungle. We visited his mother in the house where he was born and helped to prepare a traditional Peruvian feast. It was a trip that I will not soon forget. For those who are seeking an alternative route, contact Daniel Concha, who was our guide for this trip.

We plan to cover Peru for On The Road Travelers soon, so stay tuned!