Chronicles of On The Road Travel

An Epicurean Dilemma in Buenos Aires

An interesting situation took place over the past couple weeks concerning an article that caught my eye in the New York Times Travel Magazine about restaurants in the trendy neighborhood of Palermo Viejo in Buenos Aires. The author remarked that the restaurants were "more about the soaring interiors and designer cocktails than the food. It's not that a meal at this type of restaurant is bad, just generic: croquettes with clever fillings, crusted salmon served with a side of puréed something". He went on to almost plead for restaurants "which showcase Argentina's rich culinary history and its bounty", which in turn set off a tirade of opposition amongst expats in Buenos Aires who diligently read their Sunday Times, including one of my favorite restaurant bloggers at SaltShaker. Dan Perlman, the blog's author, felt that the NYT article missed the point of Buenos Aires' restaurant scene. Why did people assume that a country with a culture as strong as Argentina's must be limited to serving only local cuisine successfully?

The NYT author was clearly also a follower of the SaltShaker blog and sent his rebuttal back to Dan, explaining that he had not intended to dismiss creative efforts to introduce other styles into Argentine kitchens, but rather was pointing out options that were most likely to appeal to his audience -- travelers to Argentina. It is true that after extensive travel in a specific area (which can often mimic the lifestyle of an expat) one will eventually grow tired of the local cuisine and seek alternatives - after a few weeks in Thailand I just couldn't put down another green curry for the 25th night in a row! However, if I plan a 1 week trip to Argentina I am going to prepare my arteries for as much steak as they can possibly handle and probably won't take a break for a dinner at the local Thai restaurant.

We've kept these various travel styles in mind when researching our restaurant recommendations for OTR. Although we make sure there is a good selection of 'local cuisine' on the menu, we also have a section for those who need a break from local cuisine.

Samba: The Heartbeat of Brazil

Last Sunday's New York Times featured a great article on Lapa - a neighborhood in Rio de Janeiro that has enjoyed a nostalgic rebirth in recent years. During the day, Lapa's Avenida Lavradio is full of antique shops and restaurants that are worth checking out, and if you’re in the mood to swing to the sounds of a samba at night, this is the place to go. After dark, music from the various clubs fills the air beckoning you to dance the night away.

The Samba rhythm originated from the Afro-Brazilian culture and soon became a national symbol of Brazil – a community dance to be enjoyed by all. Throughout the years the Samba has gone through many different styles and was most recently revitalized through Samba Pagode where it can be enjoyed in a dance hall. For those who have witnessed Carnaval in Rio or seen photos, the samba is also its centerpiece with the Samba de Enredo where a single performer leads with a verse and is backed up by an entire bloco (samba school).

For more information on experiencing samba in Rio de Janeiro, listen to On The Road Travel's podcast about Carioca da Gema, one of the samba houses that led the revitalization efforts in Lapa.

If you visit Rio, I would recommend that you stay in the more touristy Rio Sul area - particularly Ipanema & Leblon (Copacabana has become unbearably touristy). Check out On The Road Travel's hotel recommendations for Rio. You will be better off taking cabs to Lapa and being based near the beach than vice versa. I also recommend visiting the neighborhood in a group, as walking along in Lapa at night can be risky for both Brazilians and tourists alike. Click here to find out more information about Rio's various neighborhoods.

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A Taste of The Canadian Lifestyle in Northern California

Ever since we moved to the Bay Area seven years ago (!) we have been searching for a specific something to fill a void. It's not that there is a lack of things to do here, between Lake Tahoe, the wine country, the coastal drives and the hiking & cycling options we manage to keep plenty busy. But Canadian cottage life is something that is hard to replace no matter how much you try.

It could be that after eight months of hibernation during blustery winters, Canadians exaggerate the enjoyment they derive from a summer day at the cottage. But having put my snow shovel away for good, I can attest to the fact that a day on the lake, whether spent water skiing in the sunshine or curled up with a book listening to the rain, is one of the most relaxing ways to enjoy a holiday. This past weekend we finally found a cure for the cottage blues.

US Thanksgiving is one of my favourite holidays of the year. For four days the entire country comes to a halt and we have the opportunity to explore without crowds and without family obligations (no offense mom & dad). One year was a drive down the coast, another was rock climbing in Joshua Tree, another was Disneyland (which was shockingly busy on Thanksgiving day!).

This year we rented a cottage on Clear Lake, a little known paradise about an hour north of Sonoma. It is actually the largest natural lake in California, surrounded by several little towns, traditionally filled with trailer parks and campgrounds, and home to the widely known Konocti Resort & Spa where popular outdoor concerts are held throughout the summer.

The cottage we rented was small but cozy, highlighted by an enormous deck that jetted out over the lake, with all the amenities you would need to enjoy a lazy weekend: a comfy couch, a well-equipped kitchen, a satellite TV, and a great fireplace. Although we did venture out for some cycling through wine country, a hike in the national park and some wine tasting, we also caught up on some great old movies and the entire first season of Weeds (which just might be worth getting Showtime for -- I'm hooked!).

At the risk of having this gem exposed, I would highly recommend a weekend at Clear Lake. We found our cottage, which was in the town of Lakeport, through VRBO. There's not much by way of high-end hotels or restaurants here, but if you are looking for a more 'established' experience you can check out the Konocti Resort & Spa. The Ceago Winery, which was opened by the Fetzer family when their non-compete from the sale of Fetzer Wines to Jack Daniels expired in 2004, is an absolute treasure on the North shore of the lake. Tastings are held in their beautiful Mediterranean-style villa and plans are in the works for a gourmet restaurant and resort facility with hotel rooms and casitas on the property.

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Travel Within South America: New Rules

Last week the governments of 12 Latin American countries (Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Paraguay, Peru, Surinam, Uruguay, and Venezuela) agreed to  allow citizens of these countries  to travel within them  without carrying passports.  Note that this applies only to citizens of those countries... the rest of us still need our passports.

That being said, airport travel is a lot easier in Latin America than pretty much anywhere else in the world these days. Even in the largest cities you'll usually breeze through unscathed. In fact, a few years ago when crossing into Peru for my honeymoon, I was in a panic at realizing that my tickets had been issued under my married name, even though my passport was still in my maiden name (a nice gesture on the part of the travel agent, but even in Canada you can't get a new passport issued in a day). I was shocked to find that, in a post-911 world, I was able to board my connection in Lima with a boarding pass that didn't match my identification...

For those of you who aren't from Latin America, you can find visa / entry requirement information  for Brazil, Argentina & Guatemala at On The Road Travel.

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Visit Peru - the Southern Coast

This video from an Australian travel show, Get Away Australia, gives a sneak preview into the Peruvian southern coast.  This is the strip between Lima and Nasca, the town renowned for its ancient, mysterious Nasca lines.  Most tourists will skip right through this section of the country and jump from Lima to Cuzco and perhaps visit the Nasca lines.  It is a region rich in culture and tradition and, as such, a perfect OTR destination.  Here you won't find plenty accommodation nor infrastructure but you will get a taste for how the locals live and vacation.  This map will help you follow along.

One of the destinations in this area is Chincha, the heart of Afro-Peruvian culture.  Though not commonly known that Peru has a sizable black population, West Africans were brought as slaves many years ago, and the coastal area around Lima remains the center of black Peru.  You can experience the contagious music and dance that was born from the mix of African and Peruvian cultures by visiting a peña (a folkloric show) or watching Peru Negro (a musical group) in Lima, or you can go to Chincha to see the real thing. 

South of Chincha lies Pisco, a town famous for its wines and the grape liquor by its same name and the main ingredient in Pisco sours, Peru's national drink.  From here one can visit Paracas, a quiet beach town as well as the jumping off point for the Ballesta Islands, a National Reserve rich in wildlife that can only be seen from the sea.  Also, nearby ruins include Tambo Colorado on the way to the Andes.

If you ever find yourself with a bit of time to steer away from the tourist route, be sure to add the southern coast to your list of destinations.  Stay tuned for On the Road Travel's upcoming coverage of Peru and tips on how to get around this area!

This article was posted by Veronica Montero.
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Happy Turkey Day!

This weekend being Thanksgiving in the U.S., the Epicurious Thanksgiving guide, Eat, Drink and be Thankful , may come in handy for some. It lays out complete menus including a ‘60-minute Feast’ and a ‘Healthy Holiday' option, detailed recipes, a long list of matching drinks (wines and cocktails), and other tips and ideas for centerpieces for the occasion. They even provide a collection of how-to videos for techniques such as brining and home-frying a turkey to make sure they don’t lose you along the way. It’s like cooking TV on-demand.

Much to my surprise, cooking a turkey is easier than it looks, as most people who have endured the right of passage will promise. I had my first experience this past Canadian Thanksgiving, my first time in charge of the turkey. Not only is the bird intimidating but also knowing that you are in charge of feeding a large group on this special occasion, can put a bit of pressure. Even more pressure for me was knowing that this is my brother-in-law’s favourite meal of the year...and he will not hold back the critique!

Having a couple of key tools made the job more manageable. A cooking thermometer (who knew I would ever own one!) and a baster were all I needed to add to my collection and now I know I have them for next year. One tip I will add to Epicurious’ list, however, is to ensure that you check that your oven is working properly before you start cooking. I must admit all I had ever used my oven for up to now was cooking frozen pizza. I was suspicious after cooking my turkey for over an hour and it hadn’t changed colour that something may be wrong. Initially I tacked it to the whole mystique of turkey cooking and thought ‘wow, they really do take their time’. After seeking expert advice I learned that while birds are slow to cook this wasn't normal so I adjusted the oven and things started happening. Five hours after I started cooking it, and two hours later than expected, the turkey was finally ready. To my advantage, some very hungry stomachs made sure that everyone thoroughly enjoyed their meal, including my brother-in-law. So maybe there is something to be said for having a slower than normal oven!

Happy Thanksgiving from OTR!

This article was posted by Veronica Montero

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Weekend Living in Buenos Aires - Porteño Style

During the week, Buenos Aires is a crowded, traffic-filled metropolis.  Pedestrians jostle for space on cobbled sidewalks and everyone's in a hurry to get somewhere.  So it's no surprise that after a hectic workweek and a Saturday of all-night dancing, the Porteños need to unwind.    

In a city where crossing the street becomes a high-risk sport, there is little space dedicated to the cultivation of outdoor activities.  But on Sundays, the cyclists, runners and roller-bladers come out in force to Parque 3 de Febrero in Palermo Viejo neighborhood.  To truly experience the essence of Argentines at play, an afternoon in the park cannot be missed.      

After leisurely waking up sometime in the afternoon (because, of course, like a true Argentine you danced the night and morning away), grab some friends and head to an afternoon of fun and games, Porteño-style.     Parque 3 de Febrero is packed with activities, despite its relatively small size.  A mile-long promenade circles a charming lake, rose gardens, and grassy lawns.  More grass spaces border the promenade, complete with picnicking families and entwined couples.      

Runners clog the promenade, so a brisk run will in reality become a slow jog, perfect for people-watching.  Booths along the avenue rent roller blades for A$10 for the hour, with optional knee and wrist guards.  Protective gear is highly recommended since the route is crowded with children, strollers, soccer balls, and more roller-bladers (including unpredictable beginners).  Roller hockey games occupy one side of the lake and aerobic dance classes are provided free of charge in another corner of the park.    

Ping-pong tables exist alongside pick-up soccer games and cyclists maneuver between the promenading throngs.  The vivid blues and reds of paddle boats dot the lake while spectators watch from the white lattice bridge that offers access to the rose gardens.  Tai chi practitioners can be seen bending slowly in the shade, bronzed sunbathers lounge in swimsuits, and muscle-bound guys get more buff on pull-up bars.    

It's a chaotic scene, and the merry-go-round of the promenading Porteños never ends.  If you can break out of the circle, stop for a chorizo sandwich and cold agua sin gas to pause and people watch.  You're in the perfect place for a dazzling display of happy families, kissing lovers, sweating exercisers, fun-loving teenagers, and all variety of Porteños and foreigners imaginable.

This article was submitted by Hannah Shanks, a journalist living in Buenos Aires. To find out more about the lifestyle's of Porteños, check out On The Road Travel's Guide to Argentina.

Carnival in Brazil

Carnival in Brazil is one of the biggest festivals in the world and is an opportunity to see Carioca (one who is from Rio) culture at its peak. The main event features an all-night parade through the Sambadromo with elaborate floats and unforgettable music and costumes that will make your head spin. The parade is an opportunity for the various Samba Schools (which each have their own fan club and supporters, much like the local soccer teams) to show their stuff and compete against one another. This generally entails about 4000 students per school. The festivities culminate in the announcement of the Carnival Champion at the end of the week.

by dave_c101

The Carnival festivities are not limited to Rio. In fact Bahia, the center of the Afro-Brazilian culture, is considered to be the heart of Carnival. Here you will find one of the liveliest and spirited celebrations in the country. Salvador, which is an ongoing party at any time of year, heightens the festivities with its street parties and concerts. For more information and insider tips on the best way to see Carnival listen to a podcast of On The Road Travel's Insiders Guide to Carnival.

Carnival is held every year, 7 weeks before Easter Sunday. This year's Carnival (or carnaval as it is spelled in Brazil) will run from February 18th - 21st. If you haven't made your arrangements yet then get moving! Check out our recommendations for both Rio and Salvador. If you've already missed the boat, you may want to consider visiting a few weeks early. Brazilians start warming up for the event weeks in advance and you'll be sure to catch some of the vibe!

The King of Latin American Cuisine

This month's Conde Naste Traveler features an article on Francis Mallmann, the renowned chef from Bariloche, Argentina who has managed to turn the world's taste buds South to the latest culinary fashion: Latin American Cuisine. After spending several years in Paris training under influential chefs, Mallmann returned to his native Argentina to pioneer a revolution in Argentine dining.

Argentina has long been recognized for its strong European influence. Particularly Buenos Aires, which is referred to as the 'Paris of the South'. This influence is equally strong when it comes to food and dining. Most restaurants don't get going until 10:30pm and meals can last well into the night. Although Argentina's population is largely of Italian descent (which is evident by the number of Italian restaurants you will find), Mallmann's French cuisine was a hit. However, Mallmann soon felt confined by the traditional french sauces and preparation methods, and moved on to create his own unique style of 'nuevo andean' cuisine, featuring techniques and ingredients from his Patagonian upbringing. Before long he became a household name in Argentina, preparing meals for the president, Carlos Menem, among others.

Mallman became famous internationally when word got out about Francis Mallmann 1884, a joint venture with one of Argentina's most famous vintners, Nicolas Catena. Tucked away in the historic Bodega Escorihuela winery, in the wine region of Mendoza, 1884 serves a meal that is well worth the trip.

Check out On The Road Travel for information on visiting Mendoza, the wine region of Argentina which is famous for its Malbec grapes.

Adventures in website hosting at OTR

Do you sometimes get the feeling that some companies have customer support programs only so they can have it on their flyers and not actually to provide any support?  That’s how I’ve felt about my hosting company since the beginning.  Last week, I had a pretty typical experience with them and I thought I’d share it as part of the ongoing adventure that it is to launch and run a website. 

The problem: All emails from our site are being sent with SPAM appended to them.  This means many of our members won’t receive emails with their account information and other important features.  Big problem.

The source of the problem: Our hosting company finally accepted, after at least 3 months of back and forth, that their SpamAssassin module is faulty and suggested turning the filter off while they replace the module.  No ETA on when the new module will be in place.

I gave them the go-ahead to turn the filter off, updated the support ticket and they said they would notify me when this was done.

The actions: …..radio silence.

The frustrations: I waited about 2 weeks since my phone conversation with the supervisor and decided to phone them up again to see what had happened.  To my surprise the extension I had for the supervisor wasn’t working anymore, presumably they changed their phone system which now had the added feature of not being able to find names in the directory and when you tried to reach an operator you went into an endless loop.  Frustrated, I decided to try my last alternative and went for the chat support option.  Below is the chat conversation, verbatim, that I had with this customer support representative at my ‘premiere hosting company’, which sums up everything that this company is lacking.

Anna B.: Hello Veronica
Veronica: Hi
Veronica: I was trying to get through to Duane on the phone but the phone just rings off the hook
Veronica: Need to talk to Duane, his old extension was 208 but this extension doesn't work anymore.
Veronica: Is there anyone who can give me his new extension so I can get through to him?
Anna B.: I am sorry but please hold on they will reply you soon
Veronica: hold on for who. no one is answering, I'm not even being put on hold.
Veronica: even on the technical support line
Veronica: Hello?
Anna B.: We are sorry for any inconvenience faced by you.
Veronica: Ok, how can you help me?
Anna B.: Please elaborate your issue so that I can check it
Veronica: I can't get through to anyone on the phone. Technical support does not pick up the phone to at least put me on hold. When I go to the directory I end up in a loop that never connects me to an operator and doesn't let me spell the name of the person I'm trying to reach. Eventually it disconnects me. I need to speak to Duane about an issue we spoke about 2 weeks ago but his extension is not working anymore.
Anna B.: I am sorry but I will suggest you to mail us so that he can reply you with it
Veronica: Do you have his email address?
Anna B.: You can mail us at [email protected] with Attn : Duane as subject
Veronica: I already tried putting the information of what I need into a support ticket but I am not getting a response that way either.
Veronica: Can you please pass me his personal email or his new phone extension?
Anna B.: I am sorry but it is not possible for me to do so ....
Veronica: because...
Anna B.: I am not authorized to give it
Veronica: but I already had his extension before. It was 208. I just think they have changed the phone systems and the directory is not working so I can't look up his number now.
Veronica: ...
Veronica: so it looks like you can't help me at all?
Chat session has ended.
You are not currently in a chat session.

That was the end of our friendly chat session, which lead to absolutely no resolution.  I guess you have to take it all with some humour and tack it to the experience of joining the web as a startup but I would really much rather be told that they don’t provide support, period!  I would love to hear anyone else’s interesting ‘customer un-support’ experiences.

This post was submitted by Veronica Montero.

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