How to Ride a Chicken Bus in Guatemala

Quetzal coins in hand, sandals strapped on tight and valuables buried deep in the bag – you are now Chicken Bus-ready!

Guatemala’s public transportation – nicknamed the ‘Chicken Bus’ for the tight manner in which passengers are crammed into these retired U.S. school buses – is the best option for travelers seeking a little adventure and hoping to save a dime.

The best spot to catch a Chicken Bus (and the only way to ensure a physical seat) is to head to the town’s bus terminal. Otherwise, ask a local to direct you to the nearest route. If you are catching a ride on the fly it doesn’t hurt to learn the local signs:

“Yes, bus driver, I want on, so please slow down from 40 mph and come to a screeching halt in front of me” is communicated by sticking your arm out straight and flapping your hand in a quick downward movement.

“ No! Quit hollering Guate, Guate, Guate at me, I don’t want on your bus!” requires nothing more than a subtle shake of the index finger at the driver.

Once aboard there is no need to pay the fare immediately. If you have a big packpack the ayudante (assistant to the driver) will take it to the roof and tie it up. You can trust them on this one. Really. Next, seek out a seat if possible, but be prepared as the locals are quick and you will often be forced to take part in the Chicken Bus obstacle course to secure a standing spot. Hence the reason your sandals must be strapped on tight. It is quite easy to lose one, and trust me, you don’t want to go diving into the abyss that is the floor of the Chicken Bus.

Once you get settled you can take a breather and admire the motif of the bus. The Chicken Bus is the obvious outlet for the Guatemalan male’s need to ‘trick something out’. Each bus reflects the owner and driver’s personal style, be it love, machismo, religion, national pride, or some combination thereof. It isn’t rare to find a sticker of a hot señorita pasted above a bible verse or framed picture of Jesus.

The ayudante will eventually make his way up the aisle (or climb atop the seats in extremely crowded situations) collecting your pasaje (fare). Try to check out what others are paying as travelers are at times overcharged.

Once you have managed all of this, it will be time to disembark. It can sometimes be tricky to figure out your stop. You can ask the driver to drop you at your desired destination but they are often preoccupied with the task of racing to pick up the next passenger, and are unlikely to remember your request. So best to rely on other passengers who will gladly help you out.

As hectic as the Chicken Buses are, this is a great way to observe daily Guatemalan life. You will be able to cruise through towns that aren’t typically on the tourist track, watch women go to and from markets with their goods, and see the kindness of the Guatemalans through the interactions between neighbors, families and strangers.

Other facts about the Chicken Bus:

Keep in mind that Chicken Buses are not the safest way to get around. They cause many accidents, so we do recommend taking a shuttle or Pullman bus on longer journeys.

Some religious bus owners insist that the first journey for new buses be to Escuipulas – the home of the famous Black Christ, where the buses are blessed by a priest. In other parts of the country the new buses are blessed by a Mayan shaman. This is a big ordeal, and can be witnessed near Lake Atitlan.

Saint Christopher is the patron saint of drivers. So on Día de San Cristóbal, July 25th, Chicken Buses, along with taxis, cars, and motorcycles, are all decorated with streamers, balloons, and signs. Needless to say the drivers take the opportunity to exercise their honking skills.

This article was posted by Sarah Schwaller, our editor in Guatemala.

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