Chronicles of On The Road Travel

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Living the Life in Latin American Prisons

Guatemalan authorities this week broke up the party when they stormed into Guatemala's Pavon prison. This wasn't like most other prisons around the world. The Pavon prison operated as a cocaine producing lab / community, with druglords running the show. An entire community had been built around the trade with the most powerful prisoners living in plush, two-story houses complete with jacuzzi. Others built shops and restaurants and made money from the circular industry that surrounded the prison's primary trade.

This is not the only prison in Latin America that has been fueled by cocaine. Marching Powder is a memoir of one traveler's experience inside the San Pedro prison in La Paz, Bolivia. The book provides an insider's view of the lavish lifestyles led by the drug lords who ruled the prison and controlled the authorities. San Pedro Prison made its way to the backpacker trail when a British drug smuggler, who had settled himself into the prison's system, began offering tours to travelers. He paid off the guards to facilitate the tours and ultimately they ended up in the Lonely Planet's list of 'things to do in La Paz'. Before long backpackers were lined up outside the prison to get an inside glimpse of this Latin American 'Real World' and score themselves a buzz at a 'cell party'.

It's an outrageous story but an interesting read nonetheless.

Tourist Traps Worth Tasting

It's always a toss-up: whether to cave in and eat at the conveniently-located, higher-priced tourist restaurant, or trek your tired toes a little further off the beaten path in hopes of finding that hidden gem. Tourist attractions are always accompanied by a slew of kitschy restaurants that offer sub-par food.

SaltShaker, one of my favorite English-language Argentine blogs, wrote about this exact topic as it relates to that cute little strip across from the Recoleta Cemetary, referred to as the Village Recoleta. The author confirmed that, despite the wait-staff that beckons to you from the walkway to try their English menu, the folks tucked in to these charming outdoor patios are, in fact, locals who are simply willing to pay a bit more for good food.

The Village Recoleta can be a great option for people-watching, or a good break in the day if you are touring the area. Check out our guide for a tour of Recoleta and the parks of Palermo.

Tips on Tipping

It's always a sticky situation trying to figure out what the tipping custom is when you first arrive to a new country. Americans hit the high end of the scale in their own country, and tend to spread their financial love to the countries that they visit. Some feel that overtipping may be viewed as 'flaunting your wealth', however I have never experienced anything other than a grateful smile. So, although it may not be the norm to leave a gratuity in certain countries, it has come to be expected in many tourist zones. This article from CNN helps to spell out some of the local customs around the world.

Here's what our editors have to say:

Argentina - Tipping at a restaurant is typically 10% and generally is not already included in the bill. If you are sitting at a bar, it is recommended to leave any change that you have. This is not expected but is a nice gesture that is usually rewarded with better service. Taxis are generally not tipped. If you have something delivered you should leave A$1-2. For esthetic services, A$2-5 is expected for a hair appointment and A$1 is typical for pedicure / manicure.

Brazil - Tips at restaurants and bars are typically included in the tab and amount to 10%. Sometimes the tab will indicate 'serviço não incluso' which means that tips have not been included and you should leave a 10% tip for your server. Taxis fares are typically rounded up to the nearest Real, but no formal tip is required.

Guatemala - In places that cater to tourists a 10% tip is expected and will even be automatically included in the bill at many restaurants and bars.  One line of the bill will say "propina" if it is already included.

How To Blend in Like a Local in Brazil

On The Road Travel's cultural cheatsheet for Brazil gives you the inside scoop on the ins and outs of the local culture:

Expressions

Greetings  
Cariocas are very kind people. They'll normally greet you first or they'll pleasantly respond to your greeting. If they're meeting you for the first time, they'll shake your hand firmly and say "prazer" (pleasure), followed by their name.

If the person you're meeting is a woman, do expect to be kissed on both cheeks. If you're in a city other than Rio, it is common to exchange a third kiss (on the cheek, of course), for good luck, though this is beginning to change (unfortunately). The initiation of a group gathering can be quite a lengthy process as each person is expected to kiss every other person at least twice. Once it's over, don't try to leave in a rush, as the ritual is repeated to conclude a gathering as well. You'll also notice that Cariocas like to touch, hug and pat each other on the shoulder quite often-including the men. This is the world famous Carioca human warmth in action.

Other common greetings you'll hear are "e ai, como vai?" ("...and how are things?"), "Fala!" ("Speak!") or "tudo bem" ("everything okay?").

‘Valeu’
Literally translates to "It was worth it". It is generally used when thanking someone, and is generally used by the younger generation. A common example of when to use this word is when a vendor on the beach is trying to sell you something, and you're not interested. A polite, "não obrigado" and "valeu", lets the seller know that you're not interested.

'Gringo' 
This is how Cariocas will refer to you, a foreigner, whether they you or not, either to your face or behind your back. It's not meant in a derogatory way but rather as a form of identification (especially if they don't know your name or can't pronounce it).

Portuguese 
Although known for having perfected the Portuguese language, Rio is also a slang-factory. You won't notice the seasons changing, but slang expressions come and go quite often. When at work, the Carioca forces himself to use the language correctly, but when off duty, Cariocas like to let their tongue loose, as they say. When drinking, it is common to hear a lot of swearing, which is normal in most countries of the world.
 

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Culture

Women   
Like many other Latin-American countries, Brazil is a 'manly' country, but don't let that deceive you! Brazilian women are known to be very strong and demanding and not easily pushed around! Beauty is a common attribute to a Carioca woman, and she won't mind if you look at her as she passes by, and sometimes even whistle or whisper a comment. But don't get carried away, they will bite back! Another common attribute is possessiveness. This applies to either sex, who won't tolerate you looking at "their property", so always be careful and try to notice if their patroa or patrão (boss, as they call their companions) is around.
 
Men
As with many Latin-American cultures, the men can be surprisingly forward, depending on where you have come from. It may be shocking at first to have someone blatantly stare at you or make comments as they pass by. This is not meant to be offensive, but is actually just an expression of appreciation. There is no need to be rude, but also no need to pursue them. It is fine to simply continue on with what you were doing. If you find that the line has been crossed, and you are truly uncomfortable, pop in to a nearby store or café and take refuge for a few minutes.

Promptness
If you are the type of person who needs to keep to a schedule, Rio is not the place for you. Virtually no event starts on time. No service personnel will ever see the fault in making you wait while they finish up gossiping on the phone. Even your friends aren't immune. If you invite people for dinner, don't expect to see anyone for at least two hours after the specified time. That's just the way it goes.
 
Tipping
Tips at restaurants and bars are typically included in the tab and amount to 10%. Sometimes the tab will indicate 'serviço não incluso' which means that tips have not been included and you should leave a 10% tip for your server. Taxis fares are typically rounded up to the nearest Real, but no formal tip is required.

Soccer fans
A Carioca isn't a true Carioca if he or she doesn't cheer fanatically for a team. There are 4 main soccer teams in Rio. The most popular team in Rio is Flamengo, wearing red and black colors. Flamengo is adored by all classes, and hated by the other 3 teams. A "clássico" (extremely important game) is played between Flamengo and Fluminense, also called "FlaFlu". You'll see people drinking and cheering at bars, restaurants and streets when a FlaFlu is on. Fluminense is one of the oldest teams in Brazil, and is said to be cheered for by upper-class people, as Flamengo is predominantly of the lower classes. Vascaínos, as the Vasco crowd is called, is another legion of great soccer admirers and Flamengo haters. Botafogo is the fourth largest team in Rio, mostly made famous by its soccer genius Garrincha (better than Maradona, many Brazilians will say).

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Food & Drink

Brazil is a continental country with an enormous variety of dishes, all sharing one thing in common: the amount. A Brazilian plate is a always a big plate. Some of the common ingredients in all regions are rice, beans and meat. Farofa – a flour-like substsance -  gives the plate a thick texture, similar to poured concrete, perfect for those who plan to stuff their stomachs.

Up north, where refrigerators were traditionally less common, meat was salted and dried in the equatorial sun, making the transformation into the famous carne seca -- salty, a little tough on the texture, but delicious with some farofa, fried manioc and, of course, something to drink (preferably a caipirinha).

Down south is where the European immigrants arrived with their carnivorous appetites. They must have gone nuts when they discovered the cows breeding like bunnies in the vast “pampas”. The famous churrascos that you see in Rio and São Paulo (and now internationally), originated from the south, where it is said the best “churrasqueiros” (barbecuers) in the world reside.

It would be cruel not to mention the food from Minas Gerais, which has maintained its integrity throughout the years. Beans cooked in clay pots over a wood-fed stove, served with soft rice and meat (either chicken or beef), is the typical “mineiro” meal.

Bahia's most famous snack is the Acarajé. This fried biscuit made of beans is often stuffed with shrimps, tomato and okra paste. The moqueca is another dish not to be missed. This rich stew is made with fresh fish or seafood, coconut milk, spicy peppers and dendê palm oil, which can wreak havoc on a tourist’s stomach.

On nearly every street block in Ipanema you will find sucos, which are the original Jamba Juices. These are fresh fruit shakes featuring all of Brazil’s exotic fruits (passionfruit, mango, guava… hungry yet?). Be sure to try out Açai – a little purple berry grown in the northern states (primarily Pará), added with Brazilian’s unique guaraná extract, and packed with energy (not to mention a great treat when served with granola!). Be warned – this invigorating snack has approximately the same amount of calories as an entire meal.

Another great mid-morning or afternoon snack is the Pao de Quejo – cheese bread originated from Minas Gerais’ grandmothers – which is a sumptuous donut-hole-looking snack that melts in your mouth.

Feijoada
A long time ago, in the era of slavery, the rich would eat the best of what was harvested. The slaves were given what was left over, including pig’s tails, feet, nose and ears, cow tails and tongues, etc. Famous for making the best out of the worst situations, these slaves learned to cook the leftover meat with beans, creating feijoada.

Beer   
Beer in Rio is also called "gelada" (cold one), "gelo" (ice), "cerva" (short for cerveja) or "loirinha" (blondie). Whatever the name, the key is that it should be frosty and cold when it hits your mouth. Before they can even talk, most Cariocas are taught the all-important "beer-brand-list". This means that if you're going for draft beer, choose Brahma, for canned beer, choose either Skol or Antarctica, and if you're going for a bottled beer (a Carioca's favorite), definitely strive for Skol. Stick to this rule and you'll fit right in.

 
Local drinks   
Start by ordering the world famous caipirinha, which loosely translated means the little, short redneck. The drink is composed with a good dose of cachaça (a Brazilian liquor), freshly squeezed limes and sugar. Some adaptations resulted in the "caipiroska" - substituting vodka for cachaça. As the drink became more popular, bartenders started to change some of its ingredients for experimentation, often substituting passion fruit, orange, strawberries, kiwi, mango or other typically Brazilian fruits like jabuticaba and acerola in place of lemon or lime. These equally delicious "caipifruitas” can be ordered at most bars and are refreshing on those especially hot days.

Coffee
If you prefer your coffee 'au natural' be sure to ask for it 'sem (pronounced "seng") açucar', otherwise it will come loaded with sugar. Most restaurants serve traditional Brazilian coffee (very small cups of strong coffee) for free after a meal; however espressos and other coffees will be added to your bill.  It is not customary in Brazil to drink coffee with the dessert, so if that is when you want it, make sure the waiter understands.

Visit On The Road Travel for more local tips

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The Stinking Rose

Every revival concert ticket comes with an implied warning: 'music may not sound the way you remembered it'. So I'm not sure what we had in mind when we excitedly clicked the 'purchase' button, forking over an obscene convenience fee, for 2 tickets to see Guns and Roses. Subconsciously we must have known what we were in for when, a week before the concert, we both discretely checked on Craig's List to see how much we could unload them for. But by the time the concert rolled around, the nostalgia from our high school days had won us over and we were off to the Warfield in the coolest, thirty-something wanna-be rocker outfits we could find. Yes, that pretty much reduced us to jeans and a  t-shirt.

It had clearly been a while since Axl had been over the Mr. Brownstone lyrics: it was 11:30 before he made it on stage and the bus was ready to go home. The buzz in the crowd was a mix of those who were ready for an old-school party those who were seriously contemplating whether this was actually worth missing the season premiere of Grey's Anatomy.

The show kicked off with a lively 'Welcome to the Jungle', which was enough to bring a weary crowd to its feet. We snuck in to General Admission in an attempt to relive the glory days but soon retreated to our assigned seats in the yuppy section upstairs where people were trying really hard to stay alert, and maybe even dance when they were inspired. Those moments were few and far between. Although Axl's famous sound came through from time to time, when it wasn't droned out by a faulty sound-system, it was dashed by his own ego trips. On two separate occassions he stopped the concert mid-song, had the lights brought up, and personally had a fan thrown out for their behaviour. It was tough to get back into the second half of 'Sweet Child of Mine' after watching take place.

The remainder of the show saw Axl running back and forth between the stage and his opaque changing cabana where you could catch a glimpse of him smooching random women mid-song. This might have been entertaining back in the day, if Slash were there to pick up the slack on stage, but the crew he has pulled together since doesn't hold a candle.

Captain America's been torn apart
Now he's a court jester with a broken heart

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Farecasting

It used to be that if you waited until the last minute, you could get great deals on seat sales with the airlines. As we found out a few weeks ago, this is no longer the case. In fact, if you are trying to plan a trip on short order, you are more likely to find budget-breaking prices.

A new online service was recently launched that might be useful for those seeking flights. Farecast provides estimates (or farecasts) on airfares in the US. The tool shows you whether the lowest airfares for a specific route will rise or fall over the coming week.

Sadly the website does not seem to work with MAC, a problem that plagues me with many, many websites out there. But that is a blog for another day...

Toronto Film Festival 2006

The Toronto International Film Festival happens every year around the second week of September.  Actors, directors and fans alike flog the city to soak in the atmosphere and catch a few films.  Sean Penn was here to promote his latest film, All the King’s Men and ended up getting the wrong kind of attention.  He forgot to check the smoking code before coming to Toronto and decided to light up during an interview – does he not know that Toronto is one of the most unwelcoming cities for smokers?  Media and fans alike were astounded and offended, though other sympathizing fans actually defended him saying that the poor man was addicted and he should be given a break!

Soap operas aside, the film festival is a great time to catch really great creations from all parts of the world.  It caters to all tastes but one has to be willing to experiment a little in order to find a few really great films.  I personally like being taken to so many far away foreign places, and being dropped in the middle of some improbable story I couldn’t have thought of myself.  Last week I saw an Italian-Mandarin film that presented a suitable contrast of east and west.  In The Missing Star Vincenzo, a steel mill engineer travels to the bowels of China to attempt to deliver a piece without which the newly purchased factory that was imported from Italy would have very serious problems and presumably cause many casualties.  The man tracks down the female interpreter that had been involved in the transaction and together they embark on their quest to save the factory.  They get into a number of adventures and misunderstandings and take to liking each other through the mishaps.  We see industrial China at its worst – oppressive, polluted, ugly, uninspiring.  But in the middle of it an inspiring story unfolds.  The highlight of this movie was the subtle and expressive acting from both protagonists, Sergio Castellitto and Tai Ling.

Vincenzo’s misunderstanding of the Chinese ways in this film, reminded me of some of my own cultural experiences in China.  When I went over to Beijing 10 years ago to study Mandarin I quickly realized a bike was a must to get around the school and the city and to try to understand the Chinese way of life.  On my first week there, I eagerly approached a man selling bikes just outside the school.  “How convenient that they would have a bike shop just outside the school”, I thought.  “And they’re used, so they fit in with student’s budgets.”  I had a brief exchange with the bike sales man, me saying ‘Wo yao mai zheige’, pointing at a bike I had selected, a Flying Pigeon, and he responding ‘Bu mai’.  I couldn’t figure out why this man didn’t want me to buy his bikes until I finally clued in that this was a bike parking lot and that he was only looking after the bikes!  He would have had a very unhappy customer if I’d convinced him to take the few yuan from me for one of them!  I eventually found a proper shop and a shop owner who would take my money and I ventured all over in my Flying Pigeon.

This article was posted by Veronica Montero. 

Memories of the Greek Islands

Last weekend's New York Times featured this article on the Greek island of Paros, and brought back some great memories for me. When I was 17 and living in Europe, I took an Easter break adventure to the Greek Islands with 4 girlfriends. We had 6 months of experience taking weekend jaunts to various parts of the continent and didn't think twice about ditching the organized school trip for an independent travel experience.

The trip got off to a rocky start as we landed in the Athens airport around midnight. We had no reservations, no plans, and absolutely no idea how to navigate the Greek alphabet! We also had no money, so with our 'Let's Go' in hand, we hopped on a local bus and hoped for the best. Panic struck about 10 minutes into the ride when we realized we were lost. Thankfully an English-speaking gentlemen came to the rescue and was kind enough to point out our stop.

A day of touring Athens left us so anxious to hit the islands that we disembarked at the first ferry stop we came to. It was Paros. We found a great room with 5 single beds and a private patio complete with lemon tree. We had our first taste of Ouzo (which we mistakenly thought was water -- ending up with several rounds at our table because we kept asking the waiter bring us Ouzo!!!) and settled in to our new lifestyle. To be honest, my memories of Paros are a little vague. Not because of the Ouzo, but because there was very little to see and do there at the time. So I was surprised but nostalgic to see it featured in the NYTimes Travel section. Over a decade later, it seems from this article that Paros too has grown up, and is now a full-blown tourist destination. Although it is not the Paros I remember, I do have fond memories of:

Ios -- the backpackers mecca 

Santorini -- where at the time I thought I would one day spend my honeymoon

My travel companions -- one of whom we almost lost to an island romance (sorry Melissa)

The donkey I nearly dismembered with my moped (he was a little off balance)

The airplane tickets that blew into the water as the ferry was approaching -- thanks to Shelby for being brave enough to dive in and save them in an era when e-tickets did not yet exist!

The Greek salads and all-night schwarma stands

The Views

The Greek Islands are once again a favoured destination amongst our friends (we know three couples who have honeymooned there this summer), so I thought I would pass the article and my memories along to you.

Hog Island Oysters   

Sunday was a perfect fall day in the Bay Area. We took advantage of the weather (and the fact that oysters are rumoured to be best in months ending with 'r') and celebrated Seth's 'crossing over into his thirty-something years' by taking a journey up the coast to the Hog Island Oyster Farm. What better way to celebrate than with friends, sunshine and lots of food & wine!

The day got off to a rough start: Worried that our oversized picnic would force us to monopolize the public BBQs, Seth had the brilliant idea of pre-cooking some tri-tip at home. Three tri-tips had been marinated to perfection the previous night and were ready for the grill. He threw them on the grill and decided to go for a run while they cooked. I took advantage of the spare time to work on the OTR model, make some appetizers and catch up on a few phone calls. On his way out the door he asked me to check on the BBQ to make sure that the beloved tri-tips were OK and if they seemed to be too hot I was instructed to turn down the BBQ...

To preface this story I should point out that the BBQ is NOT my domain. I cover prep, oven, and side dishes, but the BBQ is out of my scope. Besides, Seth is one of the best BBQ'ers I know, so I've never felt the need to learn the skill myself. Keep this in mind when I tell you that I assumed his last minute instructions meant I should merely ensure that the house didn't burn down while he was gone, not actively care for the steak.

An hour later I was sitting at my computer with tomato & bocconcini skewers in hand when I heard a knock at the door. My heart sank as I stepped into the hallway. It was filled with smoke and the stench of burned steak. I had completely forgotten about the treasured tri-tips! Seth immediately ran downstairs and returned shortly afterwards with three charred logs and a big frown. Happy Birthday to you!

We cut our losses and made our way to Point Reyes. Hog Island Oyster Company is located along Tomales Bay (they also have an outlet at the San Francisco Ferry Market for those who can't make the trip), a large inlet along the Point Reyes National Seashore that is fed by the Pacific Ocean. It's an idyllic spot we frequent for cycling, hiking and even kayaking. The shallow inlet is filled with Phytoplankton, making it an ideal spot for oysters to grow. Farmed oysters take 2 - 3 years to mature and, if left longer, can grow to be the size of a chicken breast (although these larger ones are a novelty, I do not recommend eating them).

Our previous oyster BBQs have been at Tomales Bay Oyster company, just down the road from Hog Island. It is a bit more laid back and less expensive but Hog Island is better for larger groups because they allow you to reserve tables in advance (and charge you a fee per person for this convenience). Both provide great views and fun atmospheres with picnic tables, charcoal BBQs and some of the utensils you'll need to prepare the oysters (gloves and a shucker). Fresh oysters can be bought by the dozen... be sure to bring your own sauce and a bottle of white wine!