Semana Santa in Guatemala
With Easter right around the corner, its a perfect time to talk about one of Guatemala's biggest festivals -- Semana Santa. Attached below is an article written by Claire Pointus, who was our original editor in Guatemala before she got a great job in the Bay Area and moved back here. To see other articles about Guatemala, head to On The Road Travel.
If you do decide to head down and check it out, take a look at our recommended hotels in Antigua. Rooms tend to book up well in advance, but I just received an email from Catherine Doctor, at Quinta Maconda. Quinta Maconda falls a bit above our OTR price bracket, but it is truly a luxurious experience. The have rooms available during the festivities for US$188.50 plus 22% governmental tax which includes breakfast, wireless environment, delicious regional food, an attentive staff, the delight of living in an art-filled Spanish colonial mansion (from the 1590s), and getting to watch the elaborate processions from the only private balcony overlooking the main street.
Here's the article I was referring to:
Semana Santa in Antigua
People come from all over the world for Holy Week in Antigua and it is not a disappointment—it is every bit as colorful and dramatic as it is in the pictures. You can hardly walk down the street with so much commotion from vendors selling cotton candy, toys and even knock-off Livestrong bracelets, tourists taking pictures, families enjoying the holiday, and participants making their preparations.
In anticipation of this event, there is a procession in Antigua put on by a different church every Sunday from the beginning of Lent through Holy Week. During Holy Week, or “Semana Santa,” there is at least one procession per day and sometimes three. Processions involve forty men carrying an extremely heavy wooden float through the streets presenting a religious figure. While the men carry a float with Jesus, forty women follow not far behind with a float of the Virgin Mary. Although most have marching bands, incense and firecrackers, the processions before Holy Week begins are not as elaborate and do not tend to involve the elegant carpets and theatrics of those beginning on Palm Sunday.
During Holy Week the Crucifixion and Resurrection of Jesus is celebrated. Almost all of Antigua participates either by preparing altars in the churches or carpets for the processions to walk on, carrying the floats or by acting out the Easter story. It begins on Palm Sunday with the first procession and similar ones are carried out throughout the entire week representing Jesus’ final days on earth.
Individual churches are chosen for each procession and the brotherhood of that church is responsible for building an altar in the church, organizing a vigil, and for carrying the floats. The members of these brotherhoods are called “cucuruchos” and they wear purple tunics with pointy hats that eerily resemble KKK costumes. Women can also participate in these brotherhoods although they do not typically wear the robes. Helping to carry the float is an honor that at one time was reserved for only the most pious members of the church as a way of showing their devotion.
A spot carrying is generally passed down through families, although today one can also buy their position by making a donation to the church. The floats can weigh up to 7,000 pounds and it is clear by looking at the faces of those who are carrying that it is no easy task. They sway in time to the music that accompanies them as they march while trying desperately to keep the float up until they switch with others waiting their turn to carry. The groups are divided by shoulder height so that the float will be even and its burden evenly distributed. This, accompanied by the marching band and the burning of incense creates a very dramatic performance!
The brotherhoods are also responsible for holding a vigil in their church the night before their floats leave for procession. Part of preparing for the vigil includes creating a carpet made out of brightly dyed sawdust and adorned with such items as fruits, vegetables, candles, bread shaped like animals brought as offerings. The carpet is part of the altar and sits in front of the religious figure on display.
Neighbors who live along the processional route get together to also work on elaborate carpets, called “alfambras,” and they invite their friends and families to come help out. These carpets are made in the streets in the path of the procession for the floats to pass over as they make their way through town. Though the carpets are made all week, they are especially impressive on Good Friday. Thursday night, people will stay up all night working on these works of art and make a party out of it. It’s become a custom for everyone to stay out all night witnessing the work and enjoying the party. The timing is arranged so that the carpets are finished not long before the procession arrives so that they will be fresh. They spray the alfambras with water to keep the sawdust from blowing around and to prevent flowers and fruits wilting under the hot sun the next morning.
The designs have in some cases been worked on for weeks or even months and express religious as well as contemporary messages. The colors are always bright and are accented with various items such as a frame made of ripe mangos, roses, or eggs painted gold and silver. Around 3 o’clock in the morning the re - enactment of Jesus’ sentencing begins. Thousands participate and dress as Roman soldiers parading through the streets reading declarations followed by a bound Jesus in tow until the solemn procession later that night representing his death. For this procession everyone changes out of their clothes or purple robes into black ones to show that they are in mourning. Saturday the mourning continues but Sunday everyone rejoices with firecrackers, celebrating Jesus’ resurrection.
have caught a glimpse of life in these favelas. Beyond its powerful them of hopelessness, the movie does an excellent job of portraying a world where drugs and organized crime are the norm and where children are groomed from the age of 7 to become dealers and managers. The gangs in the favelas have become so powerful that the authorities have given up, looking the other way, creating a self-policed environment. 
