Chronicles of On The Road Travel

Live to See the 7 Wonders...

I always thought this was an interesting concept, running around the world, ticking off a list of landmarks that make you go hmm...
The number of times I have stood in front of a historical scene and wondered, is this one of the 7 Wonders of the World? To my surprise, there is, in fact, only one remaining Wonder from the original list: the Pyramids at Giza. I guess this should not be such a revelation given that the list was greated by some guy in Byzantium back in 200 BC.

Finally, someone has stepped up to the task of creating a new list so that our generation can trot around the globe and successively tick items off the list. In 2000, Bernard Webber of Switzerland started a foundation and invited the world to vote on which landmarks should make the modern-day list. The list was narrowed from 77 to 21 in January and the final list will be decided on January 1, 2007. Yes, there is a number theme here...

If you want to put your own two cents in, check out the 7 Wonders site. Just a warning, you'll have to pay to play.

Après-ski

Good news! The site has now been uploaded to our server - we are just uploading the content and then we should be ready to go!

In the meantime I thought I would share this with you since the topic is one of my favorite pass-times. Sherman's Travel, known for its Top 10 lists, has just published the top après-ski locations. I was happy to see that little old Bariloche made the list. It's a small but popular ski resort in Patagonia with excellent restaurants and beautiful views. You can find out more when the site is up and running.

I would've added to the list my personal favorite - Goldminer's Daughter at the base of Alta, Utah. Not the biggest 'scene' out there, but its definitely the most welcoming place to come back to after a day of skiing. I would also include pretty much any place you can get a seat at in Val D'Isere. Mont Tremblant has some great options too, but skiiers are generally too busy trying to rub the feeling back into their feet to enjoy the après-ski...

Here's the article:

By: Editorial Staff
Updated: 2:56 p.m. ET Jan. 26, 2006

Enjoy an après-ski warm up after a day on the slopes with a spiked hot chocolate on a chalet sundeck.

Peak ski season is in full swing, with a winter wonderland welcoming enthusiastic snow-lovers to carve out many of the world’s best slopes. But the exhilaration needn’t end when the pistes close: Let your hair down under that ski hat and discover our favorite après-ski scenes around the globe, including two Colorado Rockies resorts that cater to both the refined and the rowdy, a glamorous casino-dotted ski town straddling the Nevada and California borders, and a Canadian gem that pulsates with live music and good times. Or, check out the eastern seaboard at Killington, where you’re guaranteed to have a "killer" time. Of course, no list would be complete without a sprinkling of alpine villages — we're keen on four evergreen hotspots that have provided tried-and-true night-time fun to generations of skiers. And, for those of you who refuse to let summer signal your last descent, we’ve even thrown in one South American ski town where you can get your fix between June and September.

Aspen
Aspen is a magnet for Hollywood stars, B-listers, scenesters, want-to-be-seensters, and the just plain curious. Of course, the unifying factor that pulls them all together is the spectacular mountain scenery, providing serious skiers limitless opportunities to schuss their days away. What keeps them lingering well into the night, though, is the glitzy and glamorous après-ski scene that unfolds here each evening, animating the charmingly antiquated buildings of this former silver-mining town (a quirky authenticity that sets it apart from the Rockies’ other chi-chi ski mecca of Vail). Take in a concert under the crystal chandeliers of the Wheeler Opera House, built in 1889; delight your palate at one of the fabulous restaurants; or swap ski war stories over a cocktail.
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Bariloche
If you’re hankering to ski some powder-packed slopes in the height of summer, head south to Argentina’s premier ski destination of Bariloche — by mid-June, temperatures here have dropped to around 30° F, perfect for maintaining a cover of snow on Cerro Catedral Mountain. Besides the fact that conditions include over 42 miles of trails and lift tickets are cheap – we’re talking less than $20 for adults — snow bunnies who make the trek down south can revel in an array of nightlife, dining, outdoor activities, and casino action that has made Bariloche the second-most-visited destination in Argentina.

Chamonix-Mont Blanc
Don’t expend all of your energy schussing the slopes surrounding massive Mont Blanc — you’ll need to conserve if you’re going to take part in the exhilarating nightlife that unfolds in this charming mountain town each evening. Chamonix’s reputation as one of the most happening après-ski resorts in the Alps is well-deserved, with a location on the crossroads of France, Italy, and Switzerland that makes it a natural multicultural mecca for serious skiers and serious partiers. Numerous bars and lounges lure ski bunnies away from the pistes with live bands and tempting drink specials, and, with some of the world's finest skiing and luxury chalets, there's plenty of high-brow excitement too, from a fine casino worthy of high-rollers to luxe lounges and classical music recitals.

Cortina
Nestled beneath the magnificent Dolomite Peaks, the picturesque alpine village of Cortina is one of Europe’s most glamorous winter wonderlands, attracting international jet-setters since hosting the 1956 Winter Olympics. Although fairly calm in comparison to the après-ski scenes at some of the other top peaks on this list, this sophisticated mountain resort’s nighttime scene is no less noteworthy. After schussing down 90 miles of trails, well-heeled Italians, dressed to the nines, parade through the village after dinner, hitting up the swankiest spots for digestifs and cocktails.

Killington
A nod also must go to this East Coast winter favorite, where legions of skiers and snowboarders enjoy snow-filled action at the base of the mountain. Indeed, while Vermont’s largest ski resort lacks quaint alpine charm, the slew of restaurants, bars, lodges, and shops along the eponymous Killington Road more than compensates. Two après-ski staples that everyone must sample — the Wobbly Barn and the Pickle Barrel — are both found here; the former, set in an old barn, hosts a popular happy hour and keeps the night going with live bands and a crowded dance floor, while the latter is a larger nightspot that doubles as a music venue.

Lake Tahoe
Take the Vegas vibe out of the desert and plop it by 14 downhill mountain resorts and you’ll get a feel for the gaming-cum-alpine attitude that is Lake Tahoe. Nestled in the Sierra Nevada range, on the cusp of California and Nevada, this winter retreat offers abundant snow play, neon-lit casinos, and the largest alpine lake in North America. The south shore (on the Nevada side) is where you’ll want to set up camp if you’re looking for the liveliest après-ski scene, since it’s chockfull of casinos, hotels, and mini-malls.

St. Anton
St. Anton (tack on “am Arlberg” for the town’s proper name) prides itself for being one of the birthplaces of skiing and offers up superb alpine pistes, an attractive village of domed churches and cozy chalets, and an after-the-slopes party scene that has simmered to perfection through the generations. The compact pedestrian zone finds dozens of bars, restaurants, and gasthofs serving up schnapps, locally brewed beer, and lots of good fun. In fact, you needn’t look further than the top of the slopes for a little aperitif to kick things off as mountainside huts serve up glühwein (hot red wine spiked with local schnapps).

Telluride
This Rocky Mountain resort maintains its rowdy mining-town roots (notorious outlaw Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank here), but adds a splash of 21st-century sophistication to the mix. While sister Rockies towns like Vail and Aspen demand refinement both on and off the slopes, Telluride invites visitors to dig into its rugged slopes and throw one back at a neighborhood pub. But that’s not to say it’s a town without class; when it comes to nightlife, the central district of historic Victorian buildings, since converted into bars, shops, and eateries, is shadowed by the majestic scenery of the San Juan Mountains and makes for a picture-perfect evening out.

Whistler
Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, situated just a couple of hours from Vancouver, are synonymous with great skiing. But, they’re just as compelling after the sun goes down, when one of the continent’s hottest après-ski scenes kicks into high gear. Mountain views, outdoorsy revelers, and live music greet party-goers after the lifts close (and sometimes earlier); Garibaldi Lift Company, at the base of the Whistler Village gondola, and Merlin’s, at the base of Blackcomb, are but two of the stellar spots to sit back, relax, and start sippin’ straight off the slopes.
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Zermatt
World-class Zermatt has become the quintessential alpine resort, with over 195 miles of trails, luxurious hotels, fashionable boutiques, ritzy restaurants, and a smattering of bars and clubs on and off the mountain. Thanks to strict zoning laws, this fairytale-like Swiss town counts no building taller than a four-story chalet; more charming still are the horse-drawn sleighs and electric taxis that are the town’s sole modes of transport (only doctors are permitted to have a car). Even before the lifts close, skiers can stop off at slope-side pubs, like the Olympia Stübli or Zum See, to warm up with a mug of traditional glühwein (hot spiced wine) before making their way down to the base — of course, one too many of these and the downhill trek becomes all the more challenging!

Copacabana Gets Stoned

In case you didn't see it, the Rolling Stones performed one of the largest concerts in history this past weekend giving a free show on Rio's Copacabana beach. Reports vary, but some are suggesting up to 2 million people crowded the beach and the surrounding shoreline to watch the old guys strut their stuff.

Justin, who is our Brazilian editor at OTR, lives right nearby in Copacabana. He tells me that the stage was right in line with their apartment and the surrounding streets were mayhem from Friday right through until Sunday. They ended up walking about a half-mile down the beach so that they could get a seat and watch the show.

Sounds like it was a great performance - just what the Carioca's need to warm themselves up for Carnival!

Oh Canada!

Taking advantage of the many US Holidays that are well-placed at the beginning of the year is one of our favorite past-times now that we are back in the working world. US Thanksgiving is the best one, because everyone around us is tucked away enjoying turkey with their families and we have the rest of the country to ourselves! But we'll take a gratuitous holiday in the middle of ski season anytime!

Today is President's Day, and nothing could be more appropriate than heading north of the border to celebrate, or escape, the current president. So, Friday morning we hopped a flight to Calgary for a visit to the homeland in search of sunshine and powder. Having only been to Calgary once before, a long, long time ago, I wasn't sure quite what to expect, but was hoping that we wouldn't be subjected to a true Canadian winter.

The warm fuzzies we got from the friendly greeters dressed as Mounties at the Calgary airport quickly disappeared when we stepped outside to a brisk -15 degree celcius afternoon. Uhh... who's idea was it to come to Calgary in the middle of winter? Tom's flight arrived from Toronto shortly after ours and he quickly brought us back to our roots... and into luxury. Thanks to Tom's 'Presidential' status with Fairmont Hotels, we had a huge, complimentary suite waiting for us at the Palliser Hotel in Calgary.

We spent the night in Calgary and dragged ourselves out of bed first thing Saturday morning to head up to Banff, where we had another suite waiting for us at the Banff Springs... rough life. Unfortunately the weather forecasts proved true and I watched with horror as the temperature continued to drop the higher we climbed into the mountains. -16, -17, -18.. OK, no sense in watching the thermometer, it was only making things worse.

We braved the harsh conditions like good Canadians and spent two wonderful days hitting the slopes of Sunshine Village and Lake Louise, followed by some pampering in the spa and 104 degree outdoor pool at the Banff Springs. Meals were abundant, as you can imagine. Last night the boys had Bison and Elk at a restaurant in town (it wasn't until after I ordered the Bouillabase that I realized we were in a land-locked province) while we solved the world's problems over a few too many glasses of wine. It was a perfect finish to a wonderful weekend.

A big thanks to Tom for working so hard and racking up all those points and freebies, and then sharing them with us. Unfortunately we forgot our camera and had to buy a disposable, but I'll share some photos when I get them developed (how 1990's!).

Guatemalan Gourmet

First off... great news about the site. We are finally done the initial testing and the site is currently being uploaded to our server. A step in the right direction...

As I dream of far-off places while I wait for the site, I thought I'd share this recipe that I just received from a friend who runs an outstanding (yet a little higher end than the OTR market) B&B in Antigua, Guatemala. Catherine is originally from the US, but has been living in Central America for the past five years, following her studies of the Ancient Maya at Duke University. Today she runs Quinta Maconda with her partner, John Heaton.

The first time I tried Pepian de Pollo was this past summer in Guatemala, at La Fonda de La Calle Real, a chain of restaurants catering to tourists, but serving up tasty local cuisine. This recipe comes straight from the kitchen of Quinta Maconda. If some of these ingredients seem a little foreign, take a stroll through your local barrio latino and you will likely stumble across them. If you live in San Francisco, the Mission has some great fresh food markets with some of the best prices in the city.

Pepian de Pollo

Ingredients:
1 lb. tomatoes (chopped)
4 oz. miltomates
1 white or yellow onion (chopped)
2 cloves garlic (chopped)
2 chili pasa (cook it with skin, but when it falls off, remove the skin)
1 chili guaque (this is a hot one, so use it sparingly)
4 oz. pepitoria (seeds of the ayote squash)
4 oz. sesame seeds
1 stick cinnamon (you can soak it in the sauce, or shred it, but it gives flavor quickly, so use only sparingly)
4-6 skinless, boneless breasts of chicken
3 oz. flour

Preparation:
Cook the chicken breasts with water, 2 Tablespoons corn oil, salt and cilantro until cooked throughout, do not let get crispy on outside (cook in a pan, covered)

Combine in a sauté pan on low heat until cooked (about 10 min): chopped tomatoes, miltomate, sliced onions, chopped garlic, chili pasa and chili guaque, cinnamon.

In a separate pan: roast the sesame seeds until they are brown, but not black. Set aside sesame seeds and roast the pepitoria, also only until brown, not black.

When all is cooked or roasted, put all in the blender with maybe 2 table spoons of the chicken broth. You can add water or broth as needed.

Blend all together for several minutes.

Pour into a sauce pan. Return sauce to a low heat. Do not cover.

Add more broth if too thick, or, if too thin, make a mix of cold water and flour, then add to thicken.

Salt and pepper to taste. Cook pepian for 20-30 minutes on low heat.

You can put this sauce over chicken, turkey, beef or pork.

Salud!

Travel Through Asia

For those of you who have told me you are planning a trip to Asia in the coming months...

Cathay Pacific has just announced its version of the Eurail pass. You can now fly to any or all of 18 destinations over a period of 21 days. The All-Asia Airpass also includes roundtrip airfare between New York, San Francisco, or LA and Hong Kong  for $1499. You can save $200 by signing up for their CyberTraveler program (which seems to be an opt-in email system where they'll spam you with offers and requests). Departures must occur between now and May 18, or between August 21 and December 6th.

Just to inspire you and make this blog more pretty, I've attached a photo of Thailand from my stay in Singapore last year.

An Oasis of Beer

While my husband is busy slaving away over preparations for the gourmet Valentine's Dinner he's making tomorrow, I thought I'd jot down a few notes about an interesting discovery we made this weekend.

One of the benefits of living in San Francisco is the abundance of options for outdoor activity. Cycling became a big passion of ours just after we moved out here, but more recently we have been mixing it up a bit and taking advantage of the great hiking over in Marin. Muir Woods and Point Reyes both have some amazing trails with outstanding views.

For a while now I have been hearing rumours of a German Beer House hidden away in the hills that could only be accessed by foot - every Canadian's dream...  Finally this weekend we were in the company of a 'privileged few' who knew its whereabouts, and of course we jumped on the chance to try it out.

After a nice, easy loop in Muir Woods, we were escorted down a steep, slug-infested pathway. All were anxious to get there after our hike in the heat. After 15 minutes of anticipation, passing happy hikers with filled beer-bellies, we had arrived. We were not disappointed.

It was truly an oasis... a huge Bavarian lodge smack in the middle of nowhere. Large, sunny decks (well, potentially sunny, except that it was 4:00pm and the sun was tucking in behind the surrounding mountains) staggered with picnic tables were sprawled out in front overlooking the mountainous backdrop of Muir Woods. I wish I'd taken pictures to show you, but who carries a camera in their own town?

The German Drinking Lodge actually belongs to the Naturfreunde group with is based in Vienna. The tourist club bought this picture-perfect piece of land back in 1912 and built the lodge to accommodate wandering folk singers and beer drinkers. Today you will find a mostly-American crowd here, picnicking between pitcher refills. Unless, of course, you make the trek down for a festival, in which case you would be best to bring your lederhosen.

In the interest of keeping the place secluded, I am not posting the directions. But if you are ever in town and you feel like treating me to some beer, I'll be happy to show you where it is.

Under The Tuscan Sun

Although OTR will not be focused on Europe just yet, I had a request from Shawn for some tips for his upcoming trip to Tuscany. I thought I'd post them here for anyone else who is planning to visit this stunning part of Italy. Seth and I were there last July with some INSEAD folks for our friend Sabine's wedding. It was an absolute fairy tale. The ceremony took place in the main square of this adorable little town, Radda, in the heart of Chianti. Needless to say, we did a lot of exploring  in the vineyards and tasted our fair share of Sangiovese (the local grape).

We were there for less than a week, so I can't claim to be an expert. I have included some of the suggestions I got from friends as well. One of the best experiences we had (aside from the wedding) was at a little inn called  Podere Terreno which was just outside of Radda. The inn is a rustic 16th century farmhouse set way out on its own amongst the vineyards. The rooms are decent but not spectacular. The real draw here is the hospitality. Every night the owner and her husband cook up a fantastic tuscan meal for all to enjoy. Guests sit all together at a big, long table under the stars and are treated to an unlimited supply of the house's chianti. As usual, that was my downfall and we had to make several quick pit stops on the side of the highway nearly causing us to miss our flight out of Florence the following morning.

Another favorite was La Locanda del Loggiato which is in the quaint little pedestrian town of Bagno Vignoni, best known for thermal waters flowing in the area. The central square encloses a large pool of thermal waters that is now closed to the public (until recently people could swim there). The  rooms here are rustic yet luxurious with huge, comfortable beds. Breakfast here is a real treat - not to be missed. The town itself is tiny, but there are a couple of great options for dinner - just take your pick.

As you can imagine, great meals are not hard to come by in Tuscany - as long as you like Italian food. We brought along a picnic set and ate most of our lunches in the parks or vineyards. The food markets are fantastic so its easy to pick up a gourmet spread and a great bottle of wine to go. It's also a nice option given how far the US$ goes in Europe these days.

Montalcino and Montepulciano are two towns that should not be missed, both for their wines and their beautiful medieval surroundings. Vineyard tours in Tuscany are much more personal than the ones you will get in the big commercial vineyards of Napa. Be prepared for larger-than-average tastings that can last for hours. Some of our favorites were Corte Pavone (their wines are 100% organic and they have outstanding views), Avignonesi (the very cute son of the owner who is a photojournalist gave us an animated tasting), and Silvio Nardi (where we had to pay for a tasting, but probably ended up tasting about 2 bottles between the two of us). 

Those are our main highlights. Here is a list of suggestions from Mike, who was a wine connoisseur until he moved to London and left his wine fridge behind:
Dievole - http://www.dievole.it/  Winery in Chianti.  It's also where I stayed for a week.  They have a great little tour, which you may have to book.  They're kinda the Mondavi of the area, so it's quite organized...which is very different than most wineries in the area...but they do a really good job.  Once a week they also have a dinner in their barrel room - when I had dinner there, they had a duo singing Italian songs - I grabbed the guitar from the guitarist at one point and belted out some Hip and Barenaked Ladies to introduce them to some Cdn music.

Terrabianca - http://www.terrabianca.com/  Another winery in the area.  I love their wines and the person who poured for us was very friendly and knowledgeable.  Like most wineries in the area it's best to book/call in advance.

Riecine - http://www.riecine.com/ - Boutique winery in Chianti in the hills.  Small place started and run by an English guy if I remember correctly...although I'm an old guy and my memory's not so great :).

Torture Museum in San Gimignano - You'll probably go to the town...which is quite nice.  But you have to go to this museum.  It's pretty funny...and gruesome.

Il Cantinone - Restaurant in Florence.  Loved this place located in this brick-walled underground cavern.  Great food and amazing wine list.  Found this link http://www.frommers.com/destinations/florence/D53861.html

Montalcino - City in the south of Tuscany.  Has the best DOCG wines of the area: Brunello di Montalcino.  I have probably 2+ cases of this stuff in my collection.

Super Tuscans - The Tuscans have gone away from the classification system (DOC, DOCG) more so than most Italians or Europeans.  Basically these wines are classified as 'Table Wines' but can be some of the best and most expensive wines in the area.  Outside the classification system, it allows them to experiment with some of the grapes you're more familiar with...Cabs, Merlots, etc...often combining them with the local grape Sangiovese (the grape of Chiantis, Brunellos, etc.)

These suggestions came from Melissa Gisler who runs a wine bar in the Marina:

Costachiara - amazing family run osteria, make their own wine also.
Lovely garden patio.  Hard to find - call.
Terranuova Bracciolini (10 min. from Prada outlet)
055.944318
www.costachiara.it

Enoteca Bengodi
Castelnuevo Berardenga
0577 355116

And my favorite restaurant in Italy....

Osteria del Vecchio Castello
Montalcino, Loc. Pieve di San Sigismondo (11 km outside of Montalcino
- hard to find, call)
0577 816026

So, there you have it. If anyone else has suggestions please feel free to chime in..

Salute!

It's a Dog's Life...

I've had a couple of requests to hear more about Clyde. So here he is... in all his glory.  Clyde is my part-time dog. We get to hang out on Tuesdays and Thursdays while his parents are at work.  He lives in my hood, but he seems to have made himself very much at home in our house. I'm generally not a huge fan of little dogs. I'll take a Bernese Mountain Dog any day (or a retriever, although he'd have pretty big shoes to fill after Shamus, the dog I grew up with). But Clyde is about as cute as they come. He's kind of a terrier, and maybe a mix of a few other things. He's scrappy and opinionated and his ears sit really high on the top of his head so when he runs he looks like Dumbo about to take off.

When he first arrived here he was an angel. A bit timid and definitely kept to himself. It took about a week for the real Clyde to emerge. He's a cheeky little devil and he loves attention. In the mornings I bring my laptop on to the couch to keep him company (I tried to keep him off the couch but he was having none of that) and he curls up in my lap to keep me warm. Only problem is it has to be all about Clyde, so the minute I start typing on the keyboard he lets out a big sigh and drops his chin right in the middle of it so that I can't type. When he's not trying to contribute to On The Road, he perches up on the top of the couch where he can watch the world go by in front of our house.

Our big breakthrough was a few weeks ago, when I finally got him to sit outside the grocery store and wait for me without barking, so now we can run errands together too! He's one of those dogs that everyone does a double-take on because he's so goofy. He'd be a great tool for my single guy friends. He's very much a little boy - LOVES to mark his territory pretty much anywhere he can. But the best part is that I finally have someone other than myself to talk to during the day :-)

Enough Said...

So, I just got off the line with India. Rather than bore you with the details of the site I thought you'd get a kick out of seeing the interaction for yourself:

On The Road says: (10:42:30 PM)
OK - how long until you think these are solved?

gurvinder says: (10:44:15 PM)
for this we need some time....

gurvinder says: (10:44:26 PM)
plz wait...

gurvinder says: (10:46:23 PM)
we will do R&D and complete it by next week in mid...

gurvinder says: (10:46:39 PM)
other points we will complete in this week...

On The Road says: (10:46:57 PM)
next week? Gurvinder, this should not be a major issue. You have been telling me that you will have these items complete for weeks now... what is going on?

gurvinder says: (10:48:08 PM)
i know this is not a major issue

On The Road says: (10:48:25 PM)
So why is it taking so long?

gurvinder says: (10:51:40 PM)
actually the person who is working on this project will be on leave from friday to monday....

gurvinder says: (10:51:59 PM)
but i will try to get it complete in this weekend

On The Road says: (10:52:49 PM)
I feel like this has been the case for every issue we come across - that the person who is working on it is out of the office. It doesn't seem right that this work is so delayed because there is no one there to work on it.

gurvinder says: (10:53:15 PM)
no this was not the case before...

On The Road says: (10:53:46 PM)
Last week you told me the same thing, that it would be done this past Monday because the person who was working on it was out of the office for a few days.

gurvinder says: (10:54:10 PM)
it is my responsibility and I will try to complete all the points by this weekend...