Chronicles of On The Road Travel

Time Stands Still in Guatemala

Daylight savings is a controversial topic in Guatemala. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't. Last year it came about out of the blue, with most locals not even realizing it was upon them. This year President Alvaro Colom has decided not to continue with the spotty policy, citing safety reasons. Despite saving approximately 60 megawatts of energy per day, the later sunrise would force many people to begin their walk to work in the dark, further exposing them to the threat of violence.

So -- if you're traveling to Guatemala, be sure to take this into account. Click here for more tips on traveling to Guatemala.

Fly In to a Modern Guatemala

Returning visitors to Guatemala might experience a bit of shock. Gone is the nostalgically old-fashioned and dimly lit airport that once welcomed tourists, in its place visitors will find a completely modernized and expanded version of what was once one few remaining Category 2 airports in Central America. 

After almost three years of renovations and expansions, the FAA finally certified Guatemala’s International airport “La Aurora” as Category I in June 2007. On December 11th, 2007 the north wing and first part of the new installations was inaugurated and is expected to receive more airlines and tourists in addition to decreasing airfares by up to 40%.

Work on the second phase of La Aurora International Airport was set to start sometime this year but irregularities with the budget recently surfaced and a US$40 Million debt could postpone the inauguration of the future South Wing.

The Santa Elena airport in Peten “Mundo Maya” was renovated as well and a new international airport in Puerto San Jose was inaugurated in January of this year, the latter will now serve as an alternative in case of flight diversions (due to bad weather or other circumstances) instead of diverting flights to El Salvador as was previously the case.

Modernization plans for Guatemala’s airports began with Oscar Berger’s presidency and will be continued with Alvaro Colom’s government. The plan is to renovate all national airports and elevate some to an international category.

Public opinion on the modernization efforts is split, those opposed to the initiatives consider that there are much more pressing needs in Guatemala, like health and education, while supporters claim that the modernized airports will encourage tourism and consequently aid community development.

This article was posted by Yvonne Faass, our editor in Guatemala.

A New Reason to Visit Guatemala's Tikal Ruins

Yvonne Faass, our editor in Guatemala, recently returned from Peten, home of the Tikal Ruins, where she was scouting out new highlights for OTR Travelers. Here are some of the highlights she found:

Flores is usually regarded as just a stopping point on the road to Tikal, but the town’s charm is attracting more and more visitors for its own beauty and activities. Flores is located on a small island on Lake Petén It’za giving most restaurants and hotels a beautiful waterfront location and colorful sunset views.

The town recently added a boardwalk which will circle the island by mid-2008 (the first part is already finished) adding to the existing Caribbean vibe of the colorful houses and hot climate. There are plenty of activities for visitors aside from the obligatory trip to Tikal, like spelunking, swimming and hiking.

Only a fifteen minute walk from Flores (5 minutes in tuk-tuk) are the Actun Ca’an caves or Snake caves. Caves in Guatemala have a very spiritual meaning: according to the Mayan culture they are the entrance point to the underworld and it’s not rare to encounter real Mayan ceremonies taking place. The caves are open to the public form 8am to 5 pm and there is a Q.15 ($2) entrance fee which includes a guide.

El Mirador and Tayazal archeological site, 5 minutes by boat form Flores, might not be impressive after visiting Tikal but the walk through the lush vegetation, the small “playa” (beach) and view of Flores from the “mirador” are worth the hike.

For a less physical pastime try a one hour boat tour around the lake for about Q.80 ($11), especially beautiful around sunset! Or visit Flores’ central park where locals go to hang out and play basketball and do some shopping at the neighboring market place.

Find out more about Flores and Tikal here...

Travel Trends for the New Year

Travel & Leisure magazine has listed the top 5 trends that will change travel in 2008. Most of these suggestions are unremarkable (ecotravel has been on the rise for years, spas are always getting more luxe), but I did think it was interesting that they pointed to Latin America as a top destination offering good value, specifically Mexico, Brazil and Argentina. Again, this isn't a new trend, but is certainly a more obvious one in the face of a weak US dollar.

I would also commend their realization that hotels are moving towards providing a home away from home. These are exactly the types of hotels that we focus on in our recommendations:

In Peru's Sacred Valley, Kuychi Rumi offers six individual guest houses offering two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a living room and a wonderful patio, all at a very affordable price.

On the shores of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, you can kick back at Terraza Choi and enjoy the views from the comforts of this beautiful, modern home.

In Rio de Janeiro, the coastal city that never sleeps, you have your choice of a variety of bed and breakfast options in the artsy, hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa. Cama e Cafe will match your travel preferences with one of the 50+ homes in their network.

Despite its big-city feel, Buenos Aires has plenty of options for a 'home away from home'. Suites hotels such as Artsuites, Design Suites and Soho All Suites offer apartment-style accommodations with full kitchen and living areas. This is a great way to get to know a city at your own pace, relaxing in your suite with a meal on down days and exploring the city when you've caught your breath again!

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Guatemala - A Political Update

The year started out with dangerously strong winds, caused by a cold front from the Atlantic, which knocked down several electrical towers and caused various power outages throughout the country for several days. 2008 also brought three strong tremors (ranging from 4.8-5.6 on the Richter scale) during its first week but fortunately losses were material and no fatal casualties have been reported.

On November 4^th,

Guatemala

proclaimed Alvaro Colom as its future president and on January 14^th, 2008 the president elect and his cabinet will assume office after the inaugural ceremonies. Security will be increased when political figures from all over the world will start arriving to attend the event. Venezuelan president Hugo Chavez, who first declined the invitation claiming that a plot against him was in action, will arrive Saturday January 12^th as well as the presidents from Brazil, Taiwan and Mexico amongst others.

Colom’s government promised to be one of inclusion but when the presidential cabinet was announced this week disappointment reigned over the exclusion of women and indigenous leaders and the overall inexperience of the new members.  Still, there are high hopes that the next presidential term will be able to resolve some of the ongoing problems facing the country, especially the gang related violence and high unemployment rates.

This article was posted by Yvonne Faass, our editor in Guatemala

Cultural Events This Month in Antigua, Guatemala

The rainy season is just about over and the city of Antigua is welcoming the sun with a series of cultural events that will be of interest to any traveler. El Sitio will be featuring an exhibit of paintings and photos by  Guatemalan artist Elvira Méndez. Mosaico Cultural is sponsoring a tribute to Frida Kahlo at the Sala Quiroa, and Welten has an exhibit of photographs, paintings and sculptures by Lissi Habie, Francia Monzón & Igal Permuth. For details and more events check out our Calendar of Events for Antigua.

Learn Spanish for Your Trip

Sadly, after all these years, my grasp of the Spanish language is still a little loose. I can read and understand it, for the most part thanks to the fact that I am/was at one point fluent in French. But when it comes to getting a sentence out, I am often at a loss for words unless I've had a few glasses of wine.

Margaret Graham at Ahora Hablo has written a wonderful, and concise, book of terms that will help you get through your travels to a Spanish-speaking destination. Her Seven Simple Steps to Authentic Spanish takes you through the pronunciation and use of 45 function verbs and presents situational vocabulary for most sticky spots you are likely to encounter on your travels.

The only drawback is that the book is soft cover with spiral binding, which is not likely to last long in my luggage while traveling. That being said, it is a great starting point for anyone who wants to familiarize themselves in the language and get a better understanding of the goings-on in their destination. If you're serious about learning the language you may want to consider hunkering down with a one-on-one course in Xela, Guatemala, or taking a group lesson while enjoying the scenery in Antigua, Guatemala.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

El Día de los Santos in Guatemala

Speaking of holidays... Halloween is right around the corner, which means that Latin America's El Dia de Los Santos (known in the US as the Day of the Dead) is not far behind. This holiday, celebrated throughout Latin America on November 1st, is a time to honor and celebrate the lives of the dead.

The week before this holiday, which is celebrated on November 1st, people all over Guatemala can be seen honing their kite flying skills. The occasion is celebrated in most of Guatemala by flying kites as a reminder to those who have long since passed away that their family members are still here thinking about them.

In the villages, the weekend before All Saint’s Day is spent decorating the tombs of one’s family members.  The day before November 1st, women and men in their colorful traditional indigenous dress can be seen making their way to the cemeteries carrying huge bushels of flowers and branches of palm trees on their heads and backs.  Behind them come the food vendors pushing carts and carrying tanks of gas to set up French fry and fried chicken stands to sell while the families work.  They spend all day building huts around the already colorfully painted tombs and then cover them in all different types of flowers.

Click here for a podcast interview with Elizabeth Bell, a local heritage and tourism specialist in Antigua, Guatemala. Elizabeth provides great insight into the traditions of both urban Antigua and the surrounding Mayan towns of Santiago Sacatepéquez and Sumpango. She also describes the colourful celebrations in Todos Santos, Cuchumatanes, the holiday’s namesake town, and gives her suggestions for an off-the-beaten-path glimpse of the festivities.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Day of the What?!?

While folks in the United States were celebrating Columbus Day last week, those in Latin America confusingly pondered a holiday that represents the downfall of the continent's indigenous people. El Día de La Raza (the day of race), much like its sister holiday to the North, commemorates the encounter between the Europeans and the Native Americans. In an effort to create awareness of what the holiday really symbolizes, a group of Native Americans came together in 1992 to declare the day 'The International Day of Solidarity With Indigenous Peoples'. A decade later, in 2002, Venezuela furthered the meaning by signing a decree which declared the event ' El Dia de la Resistencia Indigena' (the Day of Indigenous Resistance).

Last Friday,  thousands of indigenous people marched through the streets of Guatemala City to support what they call 'The Day of Continent-Wide Indigenous People's Resistance', their version of a justifiable name for this holiday. Before the  name gets any longer and the idea behind the holiday completely lost, perhaps we should all consider the suggestion of Argentina's anti-descrimination agency and call it 'The Day of American Cultural Diversity'.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Idol Brings A Ray of Hope for Guatemala

On September 9th there were few surprises in Guatemala. The two candidates that had been leading the polls since the beginning of the electoral campaigns, Alvaro Colom and Otto Perez Molina, didn’t get enough votes to declare victory and will go on to a second electoral round to be held on November 4th. Voters will now have to choose between, what the 3rd runner-up called two terminal diseases, referring to Alvaro Colom’s suspected links with the drug trade and Otto Perez Molina’s military status and involvement during Guatemala’s civil war. Although expectations for the next presidential term are low there is great hope that some of the problems plaguing the country like violence, poverty and lack of education will see an improvement in the future.

On the other hand, a seemingly trivial event like Latin American Idol has managed to bring more hope and pride to Guatemala than any political party: Guatemalan contestant Carlos Pena was declared winner in the Latin American version of Idol held in Argentina last Thursday. On Monday October 1st he was received by thousands of fans, as well as President Oscar Berger and Guatemala City’s mayor Alvaro Arzu. Carlos Pena has quickly become a symbol of hope and hard work and many consider him an inspiration.

This article was posted by Yvonne Faass, our editor in Guatemala.