Chronicles of On The Road Travel

Not-So-Lonely Planet Writers

We've all heard the Lonely Planet horror stories, about how the people writing your trusted guidebook, the one you sacrificed 5 extra pounds in your backpack to bring along, actually never lifted a finger to update the book. Clever insights and suggestions plagiarized from another source ( I saw this first hand while traveling through Guatemala with an LP and a Footprints guide -- did both authors really think of Jackson Pollack when they saw that restaurant??), or simply made from scratch but never actually verified (if you were a 22 year old who was given a bit of cash to update a guide, wouldn't YOU pocket the money and sit on the beach, making sure to call each hotel on the list to make sure they were still in business?).  In fact it's the reason we started OTR, in an effort to provide real editorialized content from local editors who know their cities and take pride in their recommendations.

For the first time an LP guidebook writer is coming forward and providing the true story behind the trusted reviews we have all relied and frowned upon. Do Travel Writers Go to Hell? provides the Inside Scoop on the famous backpacker's bible, detailing scandalous encounters and horrifying truths about the travel guide gods. Thomas Kohnstamm was responsible for updating the Lonely Planet's Brazil guide, among others throughout Latin America. I haven't read the book, but I have most definitely been led astray by his earlier works with LP. All I have to say is -- that one time in Kanchanaburi, Thailand, when my husband and I spent 45 minutes walking in circles trying to find a 'highly recommended' restaurant... it wasn't my fault!! 

Overhead Bin Blues

I was thinking about the overhead bin evolution a couple of weeks ago while boarding a flight from the east coast. Some airlines have now restricted carry-on bags to those who are seated in the 1st and 2nd seating calls. So if you flew on points or bought a deeply discounted ticket you are likely at the end of the line when it comes to boarding, and you are now forced to check your bags.

It used to be that overnight business travel caused the most stress. You typically ended up on a full flight and had to fight off the other like-minded travelers who were also trying to squeeze their roll-on bags into the overhead bin.

Then came the flight reductions, causing all flights, no matter what time of day, to be full. So, not only were you fighting off other business travelers, who knew how to pack an overnight bag, you were also fighting Joe Shmo, who travels once in a blue moon and has no idea how to respect the unwritten rule of airline travel. He has two carry-ons that are far to big, and he spends 20 minutes getting settled in, holding up the traffic behind him trying to load on to the airplane.

Then came the toiletry regulations, swinging the pendulum back while Joe Shmo decided it was too much trouble to pack his shaving kit into a zip lock bag. Bags were once again checked to avoid the hassle.

This article from the New York Times points out that the bin creep has once again returned as the general public decides to leave its hair product behind, enticed by the handy little toiletry packet that  hotels provide for a nice markup.

Buyer beware:  several airlines will soon start charging for a second piece of luggage. When will the overhead bin find a natural balance?

On The Road Again

We're back! After 7 frustrating days of waiting on hold with our less-than-stellar hosting company, and taking 2 steps back for every one step of progress thanks to their policy of not allowing technical support to speak with customers... we've finally fixed the issue! As we had expected, Startlogic had upgraded us to a new platform. It turns out platform 2.0 required programmers to do a number of changes to make sure that the files corresponded to the new platform. It would've helped if they'd let us know this before doing the migration. It probably would've also helped if they had copied over all of our files when they did this migration. Bygones... back to travel.

No News is Not Good News

Three days later and still no site... sorry! There does seem to be movement at Startlogic though! After many, many hours on hold with tech support they have identified the issue and recognized that it is their fault. It seems they finally (after at least a year) upgrade us to the new platform they are rolling out without any warning. In  the usual Startlogic way, they also managed to lose half the files when they did the migration! So... it's a work in progress.

In the meantime, Countries throughout Latin America are gearing up for one of the largest events of the year: Holy Week. Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru, provides these updates on the festivities in Cusco:

Cultural and student organizations in Cusco will stage the Passion of Christ in the surrounding areas of Sacsayhuamán this Holy Week. The ceremony will start early on the morning of Friday 21, in the main square of the city and will be taken through every cross in the whereabouts of Sacsayhuamán. 

On Monday, 17 the traditional ‘Lord of Earthquakes’ procession and blessing will take place in the main square. According to devouts, in 1650 a canvas named ‘Christ of the Good Death’ stopped a strong earthquake striking Cusco, when indigenous people and Spaniards started praying together before him.

This celebration is especially interesting for it allows us to appreciate with clarity the fusion between Andean and Christian religions. As a matter of fact, the Cathedral of Cusco itself was built over the base of the ancient temple dedicated to the Inca God Wiracocha.

The image of the Lord of Earthquakes is taken on procession through different streets of the city in the same way mummies of Inca chiefs, priests and high governors were.

Finally, the central element of this celebration is the Ñucchu flower (sage) which was offered in the past to Wiracocha, and is now used to make the crown for the Lord of Earthquakes and is also thrown to the image during the procession.

This is quite an impressive religious celebration, which gathers thousands of people in the Main Square, all waiting for the blessing of this image in absolute silence, deeply touched, for they consider the Lord of Earthquakes their mediator between earth and heaven.

Around 3pm people start gathering in the Main Square, so for a privileged view of this sea of people, try a coffee shop or restaurant with a balcony, such as La Retama (recommended by OTR).

Snafued by Startlogic Again

Every few months it's something new... the folks at Startlogic (our hosting company) have done it again. This time it was during an 'upgrade' which they have been trying to roll out since last summer. It seems our ticket was up today. They appear to have switched us to the new platform, but forgot to transfer the proper files along with it. So... when you go to the site, you will now see the very first version of our website -- in Latin! As per usual it will take 24 hours for them to confirm that they've made the error, and who knows from there how long it will take  to get it back to normal. Stay tuned!

Time Stands Still in Guatemala

Daylight savings is a controversial topic in Guatemala. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't. Last year it came about out of the blue, with most locals not even realizing it was upon them. This year President Alvaro Colom has decided not to continue with the spotty policy, citing safety reasons. Despite saving approximately 60 megawatts of energy per day, the later sunrise would force many people to begin their walk to work in the dark, further exposing them to the threat of violence.

So -- if you're traveling to Guatemala, be sure to take this into account. Click here for more tips on traveling to Guatemala.

Travel to Brazil With Kids

The New York Times Travel Q&A column recently posted some suggestions for those planning to travel to Brazil with children. Many of the suggestions apply equally to adults: avoid tap water, strong currents and pollution, apply sunscreen liberally, etc. The comments beneath the article provide more substantial suggestions. Read how to spend a rainy day in Rio for recommendations of museums and other fairweather options.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Floods in Peru

The strike's may be calming down in Peru but the weather is definitely acting up!

If you’re travelling to southern Peru (Puno, Cusco or Arequipa) or are looking forward to spending sunny days in the north of Peru, notice that heavy rain is expected in both areas until the month of April.  In the north zone of the country, the city of Tumbes has been severely affected by rivers overflowing causing floods and landslides.

In Cusco, the city of Aguas Calientes is working on the construction of walls along the river to prevent floods which can lead to a disaster similar to the one in 2004, when a landslide covered part of the town, killing 14 people, destroying several houses and buildings.

So far, these rains have left around 1million affected people during this season.

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

Lots to do in Rio This Weekend

Carioca's may pause to take a breath after the Carnival celebrations but Rio de Janeiro hardly shuts down. This weekend is filled with events:

Tonight: Steel Pulse in concert at Vivo Rio. This world-famous British reggae band will be performing it’s politically charged—and yet upbeat-- songs for one night only in Rio.

Bob Dylan is playing at the Rio Arena Avenida Embaixador Abelardo Bueno (a new venue built to host the Pan-American games).

Cuban singer, Omara Portuondo, joins forces with Brazilian Maria Bethania (sister of Caetano Veloso, and fellow Tropicalista) at Caneção.

Orquestra Lunar, the 10-member all-woman band which has been gaining popularity with its quality version of samba, choro and ballads, is playing at Sala Baden Powell.

Casuarina,a group of five young musicians who play traditional samba tunes in an informal “roda” (circle) will be performing at the Teatro Odisseia.

The Maze Inn will be hosting Jazz / Samba /Bossa on the hill.

Fore more information on these and other events taking place in Rio this weekend, check out our calendar of events.

Heli-Cusco flies to Machu Picchu

Travelers are again able to reach Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu, using the services of Heli-Cusco, whose operations started again after the favourable technical opinion of INRENA (Institute of National Resources) and the approval of the Ministry of Transportations and Communications.

The manager of Heli-Cusco, Herman Schwartzmann, said they are not flying over Machu Picchu and the company has carried out several environmental impact studies to assure flights and landing operations have no negative effect on the area.

In addition, he stated that the time flying around the area is no more than 8 minutes and that the resounding waves are not perceptible in the citadel due to the geological structure of the zone and the thick vegetation.

The approximate cost of the flight is US$200 per person and it lasts 30 minutes from Cusco. Read our Guide to Visiting Machu Picchu. 

Heli Cusco
Calle Arica 849 – Miraflores, Lima
www.helicusco.com
info@helicusco.com

Trip Tips for Argentina

The December issue of Budget Travel featured Buenos Aires in its Trip Coach column, providing tips to two sisters who would be visiting the city for the first time. Given it was a first-time trip, the usual suspects came up in the list: Casa Rosada, Evita Museum, the Recoleta Cemetary, and a day trip to Tigre. The article did have a few good suggestions for boutiques (a Buenos Aires specialty... there can never be enough recommendations here), including Divia Shoes and the Design Center.

Click here for more great tips on visiting Buenos Aires and unique things to do.

Cusco Loses APEC

Yesterday, Peru’s Minister of Defense announced that Cusco will no longer host any of the APEC meetings scheduled for this year. He stated that this decision was not made by the Government but by the ‘cusqueño people’ whom, with their violent actions and protests, made it clear they were not willing nor ready to receive visitors anytime soon.

‘These violent acts are a clear sign that Cusco doesn’t want members of the APEC to hold their meetings in this city. Some with their violence and others with their accomplice silence have decided on this.’

‘They ask the whole country to vote for

Machu Picchu

to be one of the seven wonders and once they win, they don’t want anybody to visit this jewel; they don’t want to treat their visitors politely. It is a shame for the country and it harms all of us.’

As soon as this statement was given, the President of the Cusco Region, declared there was no reason for this decision and considered it an insult to Cusqueños and their ‘hospitality’. At the same time, he announced protests will continue throughout March and issued a strike call for Holy Week (March 17-23). It is also expected that radical groups protest today and the following days against this decision.

It is yet not known where these meetings will take place, though

Lima

is still main host to this event.

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru.

Naomi Campbell's Secret Surgery?

Some news from the tabloids... it seems that former supermodel Naomi Campbell is one of the many who has discovered that Salvador de Bahia, the heart of afro-brazilian culture, is THE place to be for Carnival. She may also have figured out that Brazil is also one of the top destinations for plastic surgery tourism. Insider's seem awfully secretive about her apparent 'cyst removal', but it seems a bit odd that she would fly all the way to Brazil for this kind of procedure!

The Strikes Go On...

An update from Andrea Tello, our editor in Cusco.

Things are pretty much the same here...Cusco's radicals threaten with one more strike (72 hours this time) starting next week, which will leave the town without flights and buses and trains, etc.  Last Sunday there was this very interesting report on national TV, showing links between these strikes and Ollanta Humala (main opposition to the government, responsible for the killing of 4 police officers 2 years ago).  And they also showed a connection to Hugo Chavez, something that we already knew but didn't want to accept!

Peru is currently host to the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Forum (APEC), but if protests continue in Cusco, this city will be excluded for safety reasons, as the preparation meetings of APEC 2008, the Meeting of Tourism Working Group (April 5th to 7th) and the Tourism Ministerial Meeting (April 9th to 11th) were supposed to be held in Cusco.

The Minister of Tourism, Mercedes Aráoz, said that the protests are now nonsense since Congress has already approved some modifications to the law in question, giving the regional governments the power to decide if they will license the areas close to the monuments considered cultural heritage.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Jorge Amado's Salvador de Bahia

Anyone who has read one of Jorge Amado's classic novels will recognize his enchantment with Salvador de Bahia, Brazil's center of Afro-Brazilian culture. It was during his high school years, which he spent in this former Brazilian capital, that Amado began his writing career, publishing his first novel at the age of 18.

Last weekend's New York Times published an article featuring what today might be Jorge Amado's highlights, from the Mercado Modelo to the cobblestoned streets of Pelourinho. 

Lee Weingast, our editor in Brazil, recently visited Salvador and wrote about Ribeira, the beachside neighborhood in Salvador's Lower City (Cidade Baixa). Lee's guide walks you through this former upper-class neighborhood, which today is a local weekend hangout. It's a great way to see how Soteropolitanos (natives of Salvador, Bahia) enjoy a day at the beach. Be sure to save up your appetite -- she's got food recommendations too!

Ribeira, Bahia, Brazil

Where the dazzling world of the Patagonia Begins

The February 2008 edition of Travel and Leisure Magazine has a wonderful feature on Bariloche. I can't seem to find the article online, so I thought I would reference it before it leaves the magazine stands. The article chronicles a road trip through Argentina's outstanding Lake District, exploring the beautiful towns and parks along the way. The town of Bariloche (the starting point for discovering the region) has become an all-season resort with plenty to do in both the warm summer months as well as the cooler, snow-filled winters.

Bariloche itself is fairly small and can be covered on foot. However, we highly recommend renting a car for at least one day to explore the surrounding area. This will allow you to plan your own schedule and spend as much time as you'd like admiring the views from the surrounding areas. Click here for more information on driving the regions 'Long Circuit' through Villa Traful, Villa Angostura, the quaint town on the northwestern shore of Lake Nahual Huapi, and ending in San Martin de Los Andes, the stunning village set off the banks of Lago Lacar, the last of the lakes on the 7 lakes route. If this scene isn't laid back enough for you, continue on to El Bolson, Patagonia's Hippie Headquarters.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Fly In to a Modern Guatemala

Returning visitors to Guatemala might experience a bit of shock. Gone is the nostalgically old-fashioned and dimly lit airport that once welcomed tourists, in its place visitors will find a completely modernized and expanded version of what was once one few remaining Category 2 airports in Central America. 

After almost three years of renovations and expansions, the FAA finally certified Guatemala’s International airport “La Aurora” as Category I in June 2007. On December 11th, 2007 the north wing and first part of the new installations was inaugurated and is expected to receive more airlines and tourists in addition to decreasing airfares by up to 40%.

Work on the second phase of La Aurora International Airport was set to start sometime this year but irregularities with the budget recently surfaced and a US$40 Million debt could postpone the inauguration of the future South Wing.

The Santa Elena airport in Peten “Mundo Maya” was renovated as well and a new international airport in Puerto San Jose was inaugurated in January of this year, the latter will now serve as an alternative in case of flight diversions (due to bad weather or other circumstances) instead of diverting flights to El Salvador as was previously the case.

Modernization plans for Guatemala’s airports began with Oscar Berger’s presidency and will be continued with Alvaro Colom’s government. The plan is to renovate all national airports and elevate some to an international category.

Public opinion on the modernization efforts is split, those opposed to the initiatives consider that there are much more pressing needs in Guatemala, like health and education, while supporters claim that the modernized airports will encourage tourism and consequently aid community development.

This article was posted by Yvonne Faass, our editor in Guatemala.

The Magic of Miró

If you're planning to be in Buenos Aires in the next few weeks, be sure to check out this exhibit. Over 60 works of art are on display at the Centro Cultural Borges reflecting the wide career of Catalan artist Joan Miro. There are over 35 drawings and 28 etchings in addition to a collection of paintings.

The Centro Cultural Borges is located inside Gallerias Pacificas - one of the best and most beautiful shopping centres in Buenos Aires. Historial buildings, boutique stores and lots of shiny surfaces - well worth a visit.

For more information on this and other events in Buenos Aires, check out our Calendar of Events

Buenos Aires: A Fashionista's Dream

Argentina is known for its high-quality, internationally renowned designers – whether it is fashion or home décor -- whose creations can be obtained at reasonable prices. Next month's Travel and Leisure Magazine has a great article on shopping in Buenos Aires, giving you a neighborhood by neighborhood breakdown of the Argentine capital's best venues. 

You don't need to travel all the way to Argentina to find some of these great buys (although that's half the fun). I recently purchased one of my favorite bags ever from Palermo's QARA store, directly online.

Click here to see some of OTR's favorite shops and boutiques, and find more articles about Buenos Aires.

Follow Up on Cusco's Strike Situation

An update from Andrea Tello, our editor in Cusco:

It's so difficult to follow up on this strike!  They change their mind every 5 minutes!  Not much happened on Friday, though the airport is being secured by 300 policemen since that day. Saturday and Sunday everything was OK (strikers don't work weekends) and we were all expecting chaos for today and the rest of the week.

Only last night at 10pm there was an announcement...apparently, a big sector of the unions finally understood (finally read the law, I guess) that it is up to them if/where private investors can build close to archaeological patrimony.  If the regional government decides they don't want private investment there or anywhere, then that's final!  So only at 10pm they decided that airlines could fly in, trains could run, etc.

Less than 200 people were marching around Cusco today, followed by 10 policemen and everything seemed just fine...airport was operating normally and so was ground transportation...until 10am when the railroad was blocked from Poroy until a bit after Chinchero, so trains couldn't run from that hour, though some trains were able to run from Ollantaytambo with police security...I talked to my contacts in Perurail and apparently no trains are running tomorrow (again, it's not definite)...

This strike started today with the Agriculture Union and the Union of workers in Cusco, tomorrow the Transportation Union and the teachers are expected to march on Wednesday...

More to come... or maybe not.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Travel Warning for Cusco

The president of the Regional Workers of Cusco and Regional Assembly, Efraín Yepes, who is considered a part of the extreme opposition, announced an indefinite strike in the region. The strike is in protest of a law allowing private investment around archaeological sites. This law has been criticized by several unions and social organizations in Cusco, who feel it would endanger properties declared patrimony of the nation. 

The strike is scheduled to start tomorrow (Thursday), in what has been called ‘a strike with violent actions’ by Efraín Yepes. “We plan to take Machu Picchu, the airport and the main square of Cusco”. For this reason, most airlines that fly in from Lima have suspended their flights to Cusco and Perurail will announce the cancellation of its services this afternoon.

However, it is said that this strike will likely be postponed until Friday, due to an important soccer match at Cusco’s stadium on Thursday. The visiting team is due to fly in from Lima tomorrow.

Travelers should take extra precautions while traveling in the area and recognize that it may be difficult to leave Cusco if the airport is shut down.

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru.

Carnival 2008 Photos

While Rio de Janeiro is recovering from a Carnival hangover, Lee Weingast, our editor in Rio, has posted these photos from the event..

Carnival 2008

Beckham's Brazilian Resort to Support Aspiring Local Soccer Stars

The New York Times this weekend reported that soccer star David Beckham is building a luxury resort for athletically-inclined travelers in Brazil. Located near the coastal town of Natal, the resort will feature a professional training center with eight soccer fields and a stadium that seats 10,000, in addition to three hotels, a spa, fully equipped gym and private residences.

The complex will also be home to the third David Beckham Soccer Academy, a camp for young aspiring athletes. A five-day session at the US campus costs nearly $1,000, however the Brazilian Academy will offer a scholarship program for Brazilian children. Click here to read more about soccer in Brazil.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Panama City: The Five Hour Tour (Part Two)

You see? There is alot you can squeeze into five hours! We left off at Cerro Ancon in Part 1...

My quick tour of the city left me pleasantly surprised. Despite the fact that nearly every corner of the city is under construction, anxiously awaiting another condo development or high rise to add to the competition, there are some areas that ooze charm and welcome visitors with open arms.

Panama City has the benefit of a great location, tucked in along the Pacific Coast. Avenida Balboa runs along the Bay of Panama from Punta Paitilla in the east and feeding through to Casco Viejo at the western tip of the Bay. Casco Viejo is a colourful neighborhood filled with European architecture and beautifully restored buildings (many still in progress). These unique features are surely the reason it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

I had visions of exploring every nook and cranny and discovering wonderful art galleries to bring home authentic gifts, but sadly a 5 hour tour doesn't allow for authentic discoveries. Instead we did a quick runthrough of all the highlights, from parks to museums to the beautiful views from Plaza de Francia, where we treated ourselves to much-needed sno-cones. From here you can see the bay, the city, the opening to the canal and the Bridge of the Americas. I was pleasantly surprised by the Museum of the Panama Canal, which caught our interest for its modern approach. For the $2 entry fee, it's worth checking out, even if you do the 15 minute breeze-through as we did.

We were excited to hear that Nacho had a cancellation and would be able to accompany us for another hour or two. We hopped in his car and headed to the Miraflores Locks, a tourist-accommodating platform for viewing ships as they enter and exit the Canal. The Miraflores platform is perched above the Miraflores Locks, with several floors of observation deck and of course a restaurant and souvenir shop. I was a bit skeptical about this one.. after all, how exciting can a big set of locks be when you're being trampled by paparazzi-like tourists on a mission? But the Canal and the locks had caught my eye while we were preparing to land on the flight from Bocas and I figured: how can you go to Panama City without seeing the Canal? It was actually fascinating to see the boats coming through and realize that they actually were tailor-made to squeeze through this exact canal. Barely an inch to spare on either side (or at least from our vantage-point!). We could also see where they are beginning construction on a larger, parallel canal to accommodate more modern, larger ships.

With an extra 45 minutes to spare, we made our way to the Amador Causeway at the western tip of the city, which connects three small islands filled with restaurants and shops, and offers outstanding views (great for sunset!). We capped off the day with a drink at Nacho's favorite restaurant on Flamenco (the farthest out), watching the sun set over the multi-million dollar yachts in the marina. As we were leaving, two Lamborghinis flew by... not the Panama City I had been expecting.

Read more about 5 hours in Panama City and see photos here..

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Lots to Do in Lima, Peru

This past weekend's San Francisco Chronicle featured a great article about Peru's cultural capital. Christian Mesia, a Peruvian native and a consultant to Peru's National Institute of Culture, reveals his favorite spots around town -- from archeology sites to restaurants to the beach.

OTR's Veronica Montero, who is also a native of Peru, recently returned from a visit and brought us a list of great day trips from Lima.

For more recommendations and articles, check out our relevant readings for Lima.

Ines of My Soul

Ever since I finished The House of the Spirits, I have been seeking the opportunity to read more of Isabelle Allende's work. I took advantage of a week without electricity in Panama to dive into her latest novel, Ines of My Soul. I love reading historical fiction, even more so when it is based in my favorite region of the world, Latin America.

This story follows the life of Inés Suárez, a woman of great power and accomplishment during the time of the Spanish conquest in Latin America. She is an actual historical figure and events in the book are 'creatively' based on documented historical facts. I am far from being a lit. major or book critic, so any attempt to explain the story's strengths and weaknesses would be much less useful than the reviews you'll find on Ines of My Soul. I can tell you that it was a great read, and highly recommend it for anyone who is interested in Latin American history, or who is planning to travel in the area.

If you're the type of person who likes to read books about the country you're in or are traveling to, check out our recommended readings sections for Argentina, Brazil, Guatemala and Peru.

Travel Advice and Recommendations From Local Experts

Carnival's Grande Finale

Today, terça-feira gorda (Fat Tuesday) is officially the big finale for Carnival but true to Brazilian style, the party won’t be ending when it should. Blocos (carnival street bands) will be parading in various areas of the city until next Sunday.

Here are some options for prolonging the carnival festivities: 

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Banda de Ipanema. For over 40 years this group has been flooding the streets of Ipanema with a stream of creatively costumed revelers. The Banda is known for extravagant costumes and a gay-friendly atmosphere. Gathering: 3pm in Praça General Osório. Parades along Avenida Viera Souto (Ipanema beach)

Rio

Maracatu. It’s not all samba here in

Rio

. This group brings maracatu, a traditional drumming and dance form from Pernambuco state in

Northeastern Brazil

, to Ipanema beach. Gathering: 3pm in Arpoador, by the big rock point at the end of Ipanema beach. 

The

Rio

Branco parade. This is the popular, non-commercial, less glittery version of the famous Sapucaí version of carnival. Blocos from

Rio

’s suburbs complete with scantily clad dancers atop floats make their way down the canyon of the major downtown Avenida Rio Branco. The parade starts around 7pm at Avenida Rio Branco and Avenida Presidente Vargas and makes its way down in the direction of Cinelândia square. The last two blocos –Bafo da Onça and Cacique de Ramos- are the most famous and attract thousands of participants and viewers. Parade ends somewhere around 1am.

Vem ni me que Sou Facinha. This bloco, whose name means “come to me, I’m easy”, will play traditional marchinhas and samba tunes in Ipanema’s Praça General Osório. Gathering: 5pm at Rua Prudente de Moraes, #10. 

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Me Beija que Sou Cineasta. It’s important to understand the name of this bloco: “kiss me, I’m a filmmaker” because participants will be given color-coded bracelets depending on kissing preference: blue for those who kiss only men, red for kissing only women, green for both sexes and black if you kiss anything that breathes! This bloco’s merrymaking also includes a dip in the fountain. Gathering: 8am in Baixo Gávea (the square near the Jockey Club).

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Voltar pra Quê? Parade through the streets near Cinelândia (downtown) with this traditional bloco whose name means “why go back?”. Gathering: 8pm on Rua Alvaro Alvim, at the famous “Beco da Cirrose” (“cirrhosis corner”). 

Friday, February 8, 2008

Só Tamborims. This band consists of only tamborims (a small, tambourine-like instrument which creates quite a loud sound when hit with a plastic stick). Gathering: 9pm at the Travessa Mosqueria, at the corner of Avenida Mem de Sá (in Lapa).

Saturday, February 9, 2008

Bafafá. This traditional bloco meets at 5pm at Posto Nove (lifeguard post 9) on Ipanema beach. 

Mulheres do

Chico

. Meets at 5pm in the Praça Antero de Quental (in Leblon).

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Monobloco. Hundreds of drummers and percussionists attracts even more revelers with their lively, percussive versions of popular Brazilian songs. Gathering: 9am in front of Hotel Sofitel, Posto 6, on the Avenida Atlântica (along Copacabana beach).
 
Barangal. While the name means “ugly woman”, this bloco attracts folks of all types and is a great option to end your carnival with a bang. Gathering: 4pm at Posto Nove (lifeguard post 9) on Ipanema beach.

For more events in Rio de Janeiro check out our calendar of events.

A New Reason to Visit Guatemala's Tikal Ruins

Yvonne Faass, our editor in Guatemala, recently returned from Peten, home of the Tikal Ruins, where she was scouting out new highlights for OTR Travelers. Here are some of the highlights she found:

Flores is usually regarded as just a stopping point on the road to Tikal, but the town’s charm is attracting more and more visitors for its own beauty and activities. Flores is located on a small island on Lake Petén It’za giving most restaurants and hotels a beautiful waterfront location and colorful sunset views.

The town recently added a boardwalk which will circle the island by mid-2008 (the first part is already finished) adding to the existing Caribbean vibe of the colorful houses and hot climate. There are plenty of activities for visitors aside from the obligatory trip to Tikal, like spelunking, swimming and hiking.

Only a fifteen minute walk from Flores (5 minutes in tuk-tuk) are the Actun Ca’an caves or Snake caves. Caves in Guatemala have a very spiritual meaning: according to the Mayan culture they are the entrance point to the underworld and it’s not rare to encounter real Mayan ceremonies taking place. The caves are open to the public form 8am to 5 pm and there is a Q.15 ($2) entrance fee which includes a guide.

El Mirador and Tayazal archeological site, 5 minutes by boat form Flores, might not be impressive after visiting Tikal but the walk through the lush vegetation, the small “playa” (beach) and view of Flores from the “mirador” are worth the hike.

For a less physical pastime try a one hour boat tour around the lake for about Q.80 ($11), especially beautiful around sunset! Or visit Flores’ central park where locals go to hang out and play basketball and do some shopping at the neighboring market place.

Find out more about Flores and Tikal here...

Day Trips from Lima

If you have a day to kill in Lima in between arrival or departure and want to get away from the noise and pollution hire a car and driver from your hotel and head to the Mala Valley, 80 kms. south in the province of Cañete.  You will pass through the town of Mala first where a stop at the local market is a must.  Here you will find wonderful local produce at bargain prices, as well as all sorts of meats and even toys and clothes.  Be sure to find the fruit stands in one of the corners of the market.  Even if you’re not looking to stock up on flavourful and exotic fruits, you will find perfect photo ops here.

Asking the locals for directions continue towards the hills about 15 minutes to the town of Santa Cruz de Flores, where you can taste local wines.  Another 15 minutes further (and more asking for directions) and you will reach the town of Azpitia, your final destination.  This area is known for its pisco as well as its breathtaking view of the valley.  El Balcon del Cielo was the first restaurant to come to this location.  Its stepped balconies overlook the valley where you can spot grape plantations, river shrimp farms (camarones) and other local fruit. 

This is the perfect place to spend a lazy day enjoying a long lunch to the sound of the water from the Mala River.  Many locals from Lima come here in the winter for lunch on the weekends escaping its grey days.  In the summer the upper class that vacations in the nearby beaches also frequents the town.

Travel Advice & Recommendations by Local Experts

* Note that this delicious variety of shrimp is in ‘veda’ from January until the 11th of april.

The Body Exhibit in Buenos Aires

If you have missed this traveling exhibition, you can still catch it here in Buenos Aires. Consisting of 16 bodies and 200 human organs, The Body Exhibition, is confronting but highly educational. The bodies, which were donated to science, have been preserved in wax and stripped so that muscles and bone can be seen.

The exhibit is being held at the Abasto Shopping Center until March 3rd. For more details and other events in Buenos Aires, check out our calendar of events.

More Carnival in Brazil...

Right after finishing yesterday's post about Carnival in Rio de Janeiro, I sat down to my favorite Sunday activity - the New York Times Travel section - and found this mini-guide to experiencing Carnival outside of Rio de Janeiro. The article brings up a great point, which is that Carnival can be enjoyed throughout all of Brazil, not just in Rio. In fact, Salvador de Bahia is often referred to as the heart of Carnival, thanks in part to the surrounding Afro-Brazilian influence.

The author also recommends Morro de São Paulo, a nearby favorite of mine. This charming island is a short flight or ferry ride from Salvador and offers a fun beach setting with plenty of character.

Whether you're in for the full-blown tourist show in Rio, or you want to experience a 'smaller town' version of the party, one thing is for sure... if you don't have a room booked by now, you'll be sleeping on the beach!

For more articles on Brazil, click here.

Travel Advice & Recommendations from Local Experts

Preparation for Carnival in Rio de Janeiro

Brazil's Carnival is less than a week away, but preparations have been underway for months now. Samba schools start rehearsing almost immediately after carnival ends, to be prepared for the following year's event.

Dance routines aren't the only preparations taking place in Rio. Plastic surgeons are busier than ever prepping local women for the big show. Click here to read the story of one Samba dancer / model / recent-celeb who has achieved fame by flaunting her silicon stuff to the crowds of Carnival attendees.

Health officials are also busy in an effort to distribute nearly 20 million condoms by Carnival's Grand Finale on Ash Wednesday.

If cosmetic surgery tourism isn't your thing, there are plenty of activities taking place that you should not miss this week in Rio. The Roda Gigante (giant ferris wheel) has been set up at Post 6 on Copacabana beach, courtesy of the Skoll beer company. You can enjoy outstanding views of the Bay while taking in a DJ show on the beach below. If it's culture you're seeking, the Paço Imperial, a former palace of Portuguese Royalty, is displaying The Image of the Sound of Samba, where works of art inspired by samba songs are shown along with the lyrics and headphones to hear the music.

For more details on these and other activities leading up to Carnival, check out our Calendar of Events for Rio de Janiero. Read more about Carnival in Brazil and listen to our podcast...

Romance In Brazil

Valentine's Day is right around the corner. If you find yourself in Brazil for this special Hallmark day, you are likely to have all the romantic spots to yourself. Fear not, Latin America's most passionate country hasn't overlooked the event... they just celebrate it at a different time of year. 'Dia dos Namorados' or 'Day of Lovers' takes place on June 12th in Brazil. This is the eve of Saint Anthony, whose gift is to spread the love and encourage good marriages. 

No need to miss out on the fun if you hadn't planned in advance. Lee Weingast, our editor in Brazil, has a great list of romantic venues in Rio de Janeiro. Read more about the best places to pop the big question in Rio de Janeiro.

Travel Trends for the New Year

Travel & Leisure magazine has listed the top 5 trends that will change travel in 2008. Most of these suggestions are unremarkable (ecotravel has been on the rise for years, spas are always getting more luxe), but I did think it was interesting that they pointed to Latin America as a top destination offering good value, specifically Mexico, Brazil and Argentina. Again, this isn't a new trend, but is certainly a more obvious one in the face of a weak US dollar.

I would also commend their realization that hotels are moving towards providing a home away from home. These are exactly the types of hotels that we focus on in our recommendations:

In Peru's Sacred Valley, Kuychi Rumi offers six individual guest houses offering two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a living room and a wonderful patio, all at a very affordable price.

On the shores of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, you can kick back at Terraza Choi and enjoy the views from the comforts of this beautiful, modern home.

In Rio de Janeiro, the coastal city that never sleeps, you have your choice of a variety of bed and breakfast options in the artsy, hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa. Cama e Cafe will match your travel preferences with one of the 50+ homes in their network.

Despite its big-city feel, Buenos Aires has plenty of options for a 'home away from home'. Suites hotels such as Artsuites, Design Suites and Soho All Suites offer apartment-style accommodations with full kitchen and living areas. This is a great way to get to know a city at your own pace, relaxing in your suite with a meal on down days and exploring the city when you've caught your breath again!

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Attention Shoppers: Walmart is Going Big in Brazil

While the US is bracing itself for a potential recession, business is booming south of the equator.  In recognition of Brazil's strong economy, which is currently poised for growth with record low interest rates, Walmart has announced plans to invest nearly US$700 million to expand its presence in Brazil.

Walmart, the largest retailer in the world, plans to open 36 news stores in Brazil this year (up from 20 in 2007), in an effort to take advantage of Brazil's rapidly expanding market. The company will go head to head with another international giant, Carrefour, for the leading stake.

For those who prefer to shop locally, check out our recommendations for Shopping in Rio.

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Updates for Travelers to Peru

A few news updates for those traveling to Machu Picchu:

1) Perurail has modified its train schedule to Machu Picchu. The new itinerary was effective January 1st, 2008. Services from Cusco to Machu Picchu are now only twice daily (one in Vistadome and the other in Backpacker). The rest of their trains to Machu Picchu will run from Ollantaytambo (Sacred Valley) or Poroy (for passengers of their luxurious “Hiram Bingham”). Each service has a new price for 2008. Visit their web page www.perurail.com or contact them at 00 51 84 23-8722.

2) Inflation is affecting the prices in and around Cusco. Beginning July, 2008 the price of the tourist ticket for Cusco’s attractions will rise from 70 soles to 130 soles. The entrance to Machu Picchu costs 122 soles. Note the exchange rate is now between 2.9 and 2.96 and is expected to stay like that in the next months.

3) Don't forget that the Inca Trail is closed for regular maintenance during the month of February

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

Travel Advice & Recommendations from Local Experts

Visit Museums For Free Tomorrow!

If you are in Lima this Friday, 18^th, the Municipality of Lima is offering the opportunity to visit all the museums in the Historical Center of Lima (known as ‘Centro de Lima’) for free! If you are staying in the Historical Center, everything is within walking distance; however, if your staying in Miraflores, Barranco or San Isidro, keep in mind you will have to take a cab (10-15 soles) to the centre…ask the front desk of your hotel/hostal to call a taxi for you.

The following museums are included:

 

Museo del Banco Central de Reserva (10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m)

Museo Gráfico El Peruano ( 9:00 a.m.- 5:00 p.m)

Museo de la Inquisición (9:00 – 5:45 p.m.)

Museo Numismático del Perú (10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.)

Museo Religioso de la Catedral de Lima (12.30.p.m. – 4:30 p.m.)

Museo del Convento Santo Domingo (9:00 a.m.-12:30m/ 3:00-6:00 p.m.)

Museo de los Combatientes del Morro de Arica (9:00 a.m.- 3:00 p.m.)

Museo Nacional de la Cultura Peruana (10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.)

Museo de Sitio del Parque de la Muralla (9:30 a.m. – 9:30 p.m.)

Centro Cultural San Marcos (9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.)

 

Read more about Lima's Museums here...

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

National Geographic Documents Peru's Cosmic Clash

Professionals from the National Geographic Channel arrived in Peru last December to prepare for an upcoming documentary about the meteorite that landed on the community of Carancas in Chuchito. You may remember back in September, a meteorite fell from the sky, leaving a crater 65 wide and 15 feet deep. The National Geographic crew have have been doing their investigations together with specialists of the Geophysics Institute of Peru. We'll keep you posted on this film which should be presented later this year. In the meantime, if you're really interested in the meteorite, it looks like you can buy a slice on eBay!

Travel Advice & Recommendations from Local Experts

Panama City: The Five Hour Tour

I'm not usually a fan of spending much time in big cities when I travel. You never really capture the essence unless you've lived there and gotten to know your favorite haunts. That being said, connections and transit usually make it unavoidable, in which case you may as well make the best of it.

If you're doing the 'quick tour', the best way to get the most of your time is to hire a private guide. We found our perfect host in Ignacio Vigil, an English-speaking Panamanian taxi driver who knows the city like the back of his hand.

Ignacio picked us up at the airport upon our arrival from Bocas and launched us in to a whirlwind historical and cultural preview of his city, beginning with El Chorrillo, a place he warned us not to return to on our own. This used to be the home of Panama's Defense Force Headquarters, but was torched in 1989 at the height of the US-Panamanian tensions along with the homes of thousands of  families living in nearby 'multifamiliares'.  The US later financed a reconstruction project which brought more cement high rises and eventually crime and disorder.

In contrast to many Latin American slums which are often located in the hills, El Chorrillo lies at the base of Cerro Ancon, one of the wealthier neighborhoods in the city.  This was our next destination. Cerro Ancon, of course, is part of the former 'Canal Zone' which was inhabited by Americans and generally off limits to Panamanians. This stunning neighborhood, and nearby Balboa and Albrook, are mixed with old officers homes contrasted by new subdivisions housing young professionals and those studying / teaching at the nearby international schools. Not surprisingly, it reminded me a lot of the Presidio in San Francisco. At the top of the hill is a lookout, providing outstanding views of the city, including a wide angle view of the canal. The Panamanian flag stands proudly atop the hill, having lost its American companion years ago.

Ignacio ("nacho") can be reached at 011-507-6670-9374, ignaciovigil1@yahoo.es. Be sure to contact him well in advance... a notable mention in the LA Times travel section last year has meant that his business is booming. His fee was $10 per hour. You will also appreciate his well-maintained, air-conditioned car which recently got a suspension upgrade for client's satisfaction.

More to come on our tour of Panama City...

Panama City

Buenos Aires: Deserted for the Summer?

          If you have just arrived in Buenos Aires, you may not notice, but to anyone that has been here a while – the city is deserted! January is the traditional time for holidays for many people living in the capital. If you are not on vacation, then you should be!So if you want to vacation like a local check out the followingU sea-side retreats and beaches. Read the full article with details here.

Mar del Plata (www.mardelplata.com) is about 4 hours by car from Buenos Aires. It is full of holiday apartments, crowded beaches, cars and generally frequented by families. For a younger crowd, try an hour down the road to Pinamar. For those with cash to splash, Carilo is the place to be seen. Full of designer clothes shops, designer cars and designer people, this small river-side village swells in summer – make sure you bring your Armani sunglasses and an attitude.

Only 45 mins by boat across the Rio de la Plata, Uruguay is a favourite vacation destination for Argentines who want to get away from it all. By far the most well-known town is Punta Del Este, the “Cannes” of South America. The rich and famous spend the whole month of January cruising from one party to the next, in between visits to the various beaches and night clubs in the area. A lot less pricey than Punta, La Paloma (www.balneariolapaloma.com) attracts a young, fun crowd who spend their days by the beach, or in the cafes along the beach.

For those with a yearning for golden sand, good surf and some good music, Argentines travel to southern Brazil to Porto Alegre and Florianopolis.

For more information and tips on the destinations above, read the full article at On The Road Travel.

This article was posted by Lucy Cousins, our editor in Argentina

Guatemala - A Political Update

The year started out with dangerously strong winds, caused by a cold front from the Atlantic, which knocked down several electrical towers and caused various power outages throughout the country for several days. 2008 also brought three strong tremors (ranging from 4.8-5.6 on the Richter scale) during its first week but fortunately losses were material and no fatal casualties have been reported.

On November 4^th,

Guatemala

proclaimed Alvaro Colom as its future president and on January 14^th, 2008 the president elect and his cabinet will assume office after the inaugural ceremonies. Security will be increased when political figures from all over the world will start arriving to attend the event. Venezuelan president Hugo Chavez, who first declined the invitation claiming that a plot against him was in action, will arrive Saturday January 12^th as well as the presidents from Brazil, Taiwan and Mexico amongst others.

Colom’s government promised to be one of inclusion but when the presidential cabinet was announced this week disappointment reigned over the exclusion of women and indigenous leaders and the overall inexperience of the new members.  Still, there are high hopes that the next presidential term will be able to resolve some of the ongoing problems facing the country, especially the gang related violence and high unemployment rates.

This article was posted by Yvonne Faass, our editor in Guatemala

Make Yourself At Home In Rio

What could be better than waking up to the sounds of birds chirping and experiencing the carioca lifestyle by staying in a private home in the charming, artsy hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa?

Cama e Café is an agency which will find you a comfortable place to stay in one of the 50+ homes in their network. Accommodations range from modern apartments to colonial mansions, many have views of the city below and some have verdant grounds with fruit trees. Many of the hosts are artists or are connected to the local arts scene and many will provide info on local events, transport, sightseeing and safety.

Click here to find out more and book your stay in a colonial mansion in Rio!

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Endangered Inca Trail

 

The famous Inca Trail that leads to the citadel of Machu Picchu presents 108 sites that have been affected by geological changes.

‘This is mainly related to the effects of rain and the intervention of men, who have destroyed partially or totally some portions of the trail’, said the director of the Geological and Mining Institute, adding that ‘this is not to alarm the population, but to work together in prevention of losing the affected areas completely’. 

He recommended that the number of tourists allowed to enter the Inca Trail daily should be only 500 and that the INC (National Institute of Culture) supervise camping sites that are now in areas where there is a high risk of blocks of rock to fall.

For OTR travelers: the Inca Trail will be closed during the month of February 2008 for regular maintenance (it is also the rainy season).

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

Endangered Inca Trail

 

The famous Inca Trail that leads to the citadel of Machu Picchu presents 108 sites that have been affected by geological changes.

‘This is mainly related to the effects of rain and the intervention of men, who have destroyed partially or totally some portions of the trail’, said the director of the Geological and Mining Institute, adding that ‘this is not to alarm the population, but to work together in prevention of losing the affected areas completely’. 

He recommended that the number of tourists allowed to enter the Inca Trail daily should be only 500 and that the INC (National Institute of Culture) supervise camping sites that are now in areas where there is a high risk of blocks of rock to fall.

For OTR travelers: the Inca Trail will be closed during the month of February 2008 for regular maintenance (it is also the rainy season).

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

Countdown to Carnival

It's that time of year again...Here is the schedule (with routes) for the blocos (carnival groups, often with ironic names) that pack the streets of Rio de Janeiro with frolicking revelers, food and beer vendors (and drinkers!) of all shapes, sizes and ages for these informal carnival parades. So don your costume or mask and join them in these free events. As in any crowd, pickpocketing can happen. It’s best to carry/wear a minimum of valuables and keep them all in a very safe place were you can keep track of them. (NOTE: fanny packs, backpacks and cargo pockets are NOT safe from pickpockets). Also, if you don’t like crowds, do not attend these events!

IN THE NEIGHBORHOODS OF THE ZONA SUL

Shrove Carnival—also known as Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday and Shrove Tuesday -- is the day before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent in the Roman Catholic Church. “Shrove” is the past tense of the word “shrive,” which means to hear a confession, assign penance, and absolve from sin.

Banda de Ipanema
Neighborhood: IPANEMA
Parade: both Saturdays before Carnival and Shrove* Carnival 5pm
Route: Praça General Osório, Ipanema Beach, Leblon

Simpatia é Quase Amor  (Kindness is Almost Love)
Neighborhood: IPANEMA
Parade: One Saturday before Carnival and Carnival Sunday 5pm
Route: Teixeira de Mello and Vieira Souto - Posto 10 (Country Club)

Imprensa Que Eu Gamo
Neighborhood: LARANJEIRAS
Parade: two Saturdays before Carnival 4pm
Route: Mercadinho São José das Artes, Rua Gago Coutinho

Monobloco
Neighborhood: COPACABANA
Parade: Sunday after Carnival 9am
Route: along Av. Atlântica

Rancho Flor do Sereno
Neighborhood: COPACABANA
Parade: Carnival Monday 6pm
Meeting: Bar Bip-Bip, Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50
Route: Av. Atlântica, along the beach

Suvaco do Cristo (Christ’s Underarm)
Neighborhood: JARDIM BOTÂNICO
Parade: Sunday before Carnival 1pm
Meeting: from noon onwards at Bar Jóia (on the corner of Rua Jardim Botânico and Rua Faro)
Route: Rua Jardim Botânico, Praça Santos Dumont, in front of the Jockey Club

Bloco Que Merda é Essa?!  (What Kinda Crap is This?)
Neighborhood: IPANEMA
Parade: Carnival Sunday 2pm
Meeting: corner of Rua Garcia d'Ávila and Nascimento Silva
Route: Garcia d'Ávila, Vieira Souto to Arpoador

Bip-Bip
Neighborhood: COPACABANA
Parade: Carnival Saturday at 00:01am (midnight) and Shrove Carnival at 11:59pm
Meeting: Bar Bip-Bip, Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50

Esse é o Bom, mas ninguém sabe (This is Good but No One Knows)
Neighborhood: COSME VELHO
Parade: Wednesday before Carnival 6:30pm
Meeting: Quadra dos Guararapes, Ladeira dos Guararapes

 

 

In the neighborhoods of SANTA TERESA & DOWNTOWN (Centro)

Céu na Terra  (Sky on Earth)
Neighborhood: SANTA TERESA
Parade: Carnival Monday 4pm
Meeting: Rua Dias de Barros, in front of the Bar do Serginho

Bloco das Carmelitas 
Neighborhood: SANTA TERESA
Parade: Friday before Carnival 6pm and Tuesday after Carnival 5pm
Meeting place: on the corner of Dias de Barros and Ladeira de Santa Teresa
Route: Dias de Barros, Almirante Alexandrino and Largo do Guimarães   

Escravos da Mauá (The Slaves of Mauá)
Neighborhood: DOWNTOWN - Praça Mauá
Parade: Thursday before Carnival 7pm
Meeting place: Largo de S. Francisco da Prainha, close to Rua Sacadura Cabral
Route: Rua Sacadura Cabral, Praça Mauá, Av. Rio Branco, Rua Mayrink Veiga to Largo de Santa Rita, Rua do Acre, and back to Praça Mauá

Cordão do Bola Preta
Neighborhood: DOWNTOWN - (Cinelândia)
Parade: Carnival Saturday 4pm
Meeting place: Rua Sacadura Crabral, 373
Route: Rua Araújo Porto Alegre, Rua México, Praça Melvin Jones, Av. Nilo Peçanha and Largo da Carioca

 

 
Pre-carnival technical rehearsals of the official samba schools—normally without the grand costumes and floats that will be used in the actual parade—are held at the Sambódromo. There is no admission charge. Vendors wander with drinks and snacks.

January 2008
Friday (04) - Mangueira (9pm)
Sunday (06) - Salgueiro (7pm) & Vila Isabel (9pm)
Saturday (12) - Porto da Pedra (9pm)
Sunday (13) - Mangueira (7pm) & Viradouro (9pm)
Friday (18) - Mocidade (9pm)
Saturday (19) - São Clemente (7pm) & Portela (9pm)
Sunday (20) - Grande Rio (7pm) & Unidos da Tijuca (9pm)
Friday (25) - Salgueiro (9pm) & Vila Isabel (10:30pm)
Saturday (26) - Imperatriz (9pm)
Sunday (27) - Beija-Flor de Nilópolis (light and sound check, 7pm)

Check our Calendar of Events for more details and updates...

 

 

         

Samba Parade   Rehearsals in the Sambódromo
Date	Time	School
Nov. 30         9pm         Beija-Flor         Dec. 02         7pm         Mocidade         Dec. 02         9pm         Vila Isabel         Dec. 07         9pm         Salgueiro         Dec. 08         7pm         São Clemente         Dec. 08         9pm         Portela         Dec. 09         7pm         Mangueira         Dec. 16         7pm         Grande Rio         Dec. 16         9pm         Unidos da Tijuca         Dec. 21         9pm         Imperatriz         Dec. 22         9pm         Porto da Pedra         Dec. 23         7pm         Mocidade         Jan. 04         9pm         Mangueira         Jan. 05         7pm         Portela         Jan. 06            7pm         Salgueiro         Jan. 06         9pm         Vila Isabel         Jan. 12         9pm         Porto da Pedra         Jan. 13         7pm         Mangueira         Jan. 13         9pm         Viradouro         Jan. 18         9pm         Mocidade         Jan. 19         7pm         São Clemente         Jan. 19         9pm         Portela         Jan. 20         7pm         Grande Rio         Jan. 20         9pm         Unidos da Tijuca         Jan. 25         9pm         Salgueiro         Jan. 25         10:30pm         Vila Isabel         Jan. 26         9pm         Imperatriz         Jan. 27         7pm         Beija-Flor

 

A New Favorite in Latin America

I've just returned from two incredible weeks in Central America's most southern country: Panama

While we hope to have full coverage of Panama on the site in the future, I'll give you a few trip highlights and travel tips over the coming weeks.

Our first stop was Bocas Del Toro, the laid back Caribbean town in the western side of the country, which was once the headquarters for the United Fruit company (known today as Chiquita Banana). Although it isn't clear where the name, meaning 'mouthes of the bull' came from, it is clear that Bocas is becoming a retirement destination of choice amongst North Americans. English is the language of choice in the  town of Bocas and restaurants featuring international cuisine are popping up on every street corner (along with real estate agencies).

There is not a ton to do here from a cultural perspective.  There are, however, many tiny indigenous villages scattered around the  Islands.  Salt Kreek is a village that has established a small visitors center/gift shop and hiking trail. For $5, two local children led us through a mud-filled path, snaking in and around the trees in search of monkeys. The monkeys all seemed to be asleep, according to the kids, but it was a fun excursion nonetheless.

As with most Caribbean towns, sailing, diving and surfing are common pass-times. The diving here is some of the best, with regular visibility of up to 80 feet and a good mixture of coral and marine life. Although the only diving I did was after a storm, which poor visibility, I came across all kinds of fun stuff: nurse sharks, lobster, crabs, eels, loads of starfish, and my first spotted goatfish! Twice while on land I saw a ray fly out of the water in a big, graceful dive - that was a first!

Ironically, this weekend's New York Times Travel Section featured Panama's other Caribbean destination,  the San Blas Islands.  It is definitely on my list for the next visit!

Tips for Bocas del Toro:

• You can't fly directly to Bocas from North America, but it is an easier connection to fly through San Jose, Costa Rica  than Panama City. Unfortunately the connections aren't as frequent, but it will save you some time if you're only heading to Bocas. It may even save you some money, since flights to Costa Rica are often cheaper than flights to Panama.
• We had a bad experience with the folks at Bocas Water Sports when planning our diving, but had a decent and friendly experience with Starfleet Scuba
• If you're craving treats from home, check out the Super Gourmet on the main street in town.
• If you've got a weak stomach, avoid flying to Bocas during a storm
• Don't leave without having fresh lobster cooked on the BBQ -- it is outstanding!
• Dolphin Bay is actually filled with dophins and is worth a visit if you want to catch them in action

Travel Advice & Recommendations from Local Experts

Christmas in Cusco!

Now you've got your day plan figured out... what are the plans on Christmas Eve? We will be taking a break for a couple of weeks, but we'll be back in January! In the meantime, here are a few options for those spending Christmas in Cusco....remember that Peruvians have Christmas dinner on the 24th and very few places serve Christmas lunch on the 25th. All these places take reservations with a 50% deposit. Be sure to check out our calendar of events for details on New Year Eve and other festivities taking place in Cusco throughout the holidays!  

INCANTO RESTAURANT

Appetizers
‘Loche’ pumpkin and carrot soup with ginger aromas and sliced smoked trout
Eggplant, zucchini and artichoke carpaccio with capers and confit tomatoes and aglio sauce
Warm Brie cheese on arugula, fresh greens, asparragus and artichoke salad

Main courses
Stuffed turkey with rice and pear puree
Pork tenderloin with mashed sweet potato and passion fruit honey
Tagliatelli nero di sepia with a soft yellow chili sauce and white wine flambée scallops 

Desserts
Apple carpaccio and ‘chicha’ corn syrup
Chocolate and coffee pyramid
Pineapple napoleon and sorbet

PRICE US$50 per person, includes:
2 glasses of Prosecco Mistrosanti or
2 glasses of Rosso di Mistrosanti or
2 glasses of Bianco di Mistrosanti
One beverage (water or soda) and one hot beverage (coffee or tea).

GREENS ORGANIC RESTAURANT

Appetizers
Baby veggies salad with lettuce, green mustard leves, carrot, tomato, endive with a strawberry dressing
Wood oven baked beets, palm, lettuce, parmesan cheese and balsamic dressing
Magic table: variety of vegetarian appetizers

Main courses
Stuffed turkey with fruits and nuts served with sauteed veggies and confit tomatoes
Trout in a butter bechamel sauce, garnished with white rice and vegetables
Vegetable canelloni with artichokes, tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini and mushrooms 

Desserts
Dried fruit pie with morello cherries, figs and apricot
Tulipa basket with dried fruits and buttermilk topping
Ice cream of the day

PRICE  US$35.00 per person, includes:
2 glasses of Navarro Correas Extra Brut
One cold beverage (juice, water or soda)
A cup of tea 

INKA GRILL RESTAURANT 
Appetizers
Waldorf Salad
Vichyssoise with smoked Andean trout 

Main Courses
Stuffed turkey
Suckling pig tenderloins in a fruit sauce

Garnishes
Pilaf Rice
Mashed sweet potatoes with marshmallows
Oven roasted pears 

Desserts
Strawberry crunch, stuffed with pastry cream and chantilly with delicious strawberry coulis
Chocolate soufflé with oven roasted fruits 

PRICE  US$50.00 per person, includes:
One pisco sour
One glass of Tacama wine (red or white)
One cold beverage (water or soda)
One hot beverage (tea, coffee or hot chocolate) 

MAP CAFE RESTAURANT 

Appetizers
Fresh trout tartare in phyillo cones, mint aromas and salmon caviar
Crispy chicken fingers salad served with pickled vegetables and elderberry sauce
Northern Peru pumpkin soup with truffle oil and ginger aromas

Main Courses
Sword fish medallion over sautéed corn and sliced onions in ”anticuchera” sauce
Traditional stuffed turkey served with baby veggies and oven juices
Caramelized pork with crunchy carrot puree and banana chips 

Desserts
Strawberry and cream tart with caramel crust and ginger sorbet
Chocolate soufflé with Chilca fig sauce and praline ice cream
Layered phyllo pasta filled with Quillabamba raspberry’s cream and wild berries’ sorbet

PRICE  US$60.00 per person; Includes:
One pisco sour
2 glasses of Finca La Linda Extra-Brut
One cold beverage (soda or water)
One hot beverage (american coffee or tea)

PACHAPAPA RESTAURANTAppetizers
Waldorf Salad (apple, celery, pineapple, raisins, pecans and mayonnaise)
Mushrooms creamy soup 

Main Courses
Stuffed turkey with fruits and elderberry sauce
Roasted suckling pig 

Desserts
Fresh pears cooked slowly in a red wine, port and spice syrup served with ice cream
Cookies filled with caramelized milk – “dulce de leche” – and cinnamon ice cream
Chocolate served with a delicious milk and yolks sauce. 

Garnishes
Potato and onion salad
Mashed sweet potatoes
Mashed potatoes
Apple Sauce
Arab style rice
Typical local tamales

PRICE  US$35.00 per person, includes:
A glass of Tabernero wine (red or white)
A cold beverage (water or soda)
A hot beverage (coffee, tea or hot chocolate)

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

Saints for Sales in Cusco, Peru

Every year on the 24th of December, Cusqueños wake up find to their main square packed with hundreds of artisans from Cusco and the surrounding areas, all displaying their creations on rented stalls or even on blankets on the sidewalk – an Andean fair custom.

The celebration of Santuranticuy (‘saints for sales’) - considered the oldest, grandest Folk art fair in Peru - gathers all sorts of carved Christmas handcrafts, from images of a newborn Jesus - known as ‘niño Manuelito’ in the Andes – to the Retablos (small altarpieces in the shape of a box that represent different scenes: in this season, the most common ones represent the birth of Jesus).

Even though the Santuranticuy fair was originally dedicated to Christmas, it now offers other kinds of artwork including antiques, jewellery, ceramics, paintings and creative clothing, all produced by Peruvian artisans.

It is a unique opportunity to appreciate Andean handcraft all in one place. Prices are fair and you can always get a good deal if you bargain a little.  We recommend you get there early in the morning and don’t forget to bring a ‘poncho’, as it traditionally rains and hails this day!

Santurantikuy

Cusco’s Main Square

Every December 24th from 9am to 9pm

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru

Photo by Bev Rosser

1000 Places I'll See Before I Die

It's finally here!!  Adding to the ranks of the 321 other travel applications on Facebook, we have finally completed our own: 1000 Places I'll See Before I Die. If you're a Facebook user, add the application and let others know where you've been and where you dream of going! You can also track down others who share your travel dreams and plans.

The Latest news:

1000 Places I'll See Before I die was recently selected as a Hot New Facebook App by TopNetPix!

Travel Advice & Recommendations From Local Experts

Peru to Host World Tourism Day 2008

Peru has been elected to host World Tourism Day in September 2008, an event that will address climate change and its effects. Mercedes Araoz, Minister of Tourism, said this event will be an opportunity to, once again, bring the attention of the world to Peru and its several tourist destinations.

The secretary of the World Tourism Organization, Francesco Frangialli, said he was very pleased to have this event take place in Peru and has highlighted its enormous tourist potential together with the various archeological sites and vivid culture.

In addition, Peru will host the 3rd International Conference on Tourism and Handcrafts, which will take place next March.

This article was posted by Andrea Tello, our editor in Peru